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Re: Coupler Mounting Screws

Schuyler Larrabee
 

I keep running into a difficulty of the draft gear box wanting to rotate if the screw isn’t really TIGHT, which can be obviated by making sure there is a continuous contact between the back end of the box and the center sill, or, of course, by some adhesive.  I really prefer the very flat headed screws I mentioned before as it reduces the side profile of the screw head.  They look something like this:

But have an even flatter head

When I got the dozens I have, they were only available with the slotted head.  I see now that there are some which are cross-headed screws.

 

Schuyler

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2020 10:13 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Coupler Mounting Screws

 

Hi List Members,

 

It is exactly for this reason that I prefer brass screws - they are relatively easy to cut to a custom length (much easier than steel screws), but since they are metal they are stronger than plastic screws

 

Claus Schlunnd

 

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Friday, July 10, 2020 8:31 AM

Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Coupler Mounting Screws

 


I use the Kadee screws for cases (hoppers and flats) where the length of the screw causes it to emerge
and become visible - or if it interferes with something inside the car, like a weight. I install it, and then cut it
off flush. If you're snapping them, you're over tightening them. Use a tiny drop of Loctite if you're worried
about them coming out.

Tim O'Connor


On 7/8/2020 1:12 PM, Benjamin Hom wrote:

Wayne Cohen wrote:
"In the distant past, I tried Kadee’s 2-56 Delrin screws to mount couplers.  Many of the heads snapped off in normal use and I quit using them. Slot or Phillips head - same results."

 

Slot or Phillips is irrelevant - why use plastic screws if electrical shorts are not an issue?  Use metal screws instead.

 

 

Ben Hom


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts

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