Tru Color was ] Vallejo box car red from micro-Mark
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You may be suffering from the volitiles gassing off right past the lid (Tru-Coloe and AccuPaint use plastic bottles with often porely sealing lids. A real problem with AccuPaint over the years. Fortunatley for us, simply adding back the missing volume of thinner brings the paint back to 100% good.
I first tried AccuPaint in the 1990s and no other paint since, with the exception of automotive lacquers. I am not interested in learning any of the Acrylics, as AccuPaint (and now Tru-Color) are my favorites, truly "perfect" paints. You will need to use a primer before painting ant brass or resin. 22 pounds of air pressure and about 6 inches from the surface is a good place to start.You can thin to the point of being skeptical of your wisedom and the paint will still lay out well. Like most lacquers, under thinning will make you a hater.
Use the Tru-color thinner and clean with hardware store lacquer to keep costs down.
On Friday, July 31, 2020, 11:35:38 AM PDT, Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:
I used Tru-Color for the 1st time last night and today. There is definitely a learning curve with every new paint, but so far I'm mystified. I bought TCP-019, Santa Fe Brown, to paint a Bx-31 boxcar. This is supposedly a paint that needs no thinner. Using my Badger 200/210, I could not get it to airbrush at all. I added Tru-color thinner 1:1 and sort of got it to work but it was still really reluctant to flow. I tried at my normal 23 psi and at 30 psi. I did get the car painted and I like the finish, but I feel like it happened more by forcing it than by getting decent airbrush action.
Is it the airbrush? I can try my old badger 150 dual action, but I am reluctant because paint drying in the airbrush is clearly and issue.
Is it the PSI? I did see one post where the poster went to 35-40 psi.
Do I need to thin even more than 1:1?