Hi Bruce and List Members.
I also had my first experience using Tru-Color
Paint in recent days. I purchased one bottle each of TCP-822 FLAT RAILROAD
TIE BROWN and TCP-830 FLAT RAIL BROWN.
I was quite unhappy with what I
Here is what I found...
(1) The instructions say that each of these is
supposed to be ready to brush right out of the bottle (instructions indicate
this is true for all the 800-series Tru-Color paint). When opened, I found
that the FLAT RAIL BROWN bottle was reasonable full, and the paint within
had a reasonable viscosity. The bottle of FLAT RAILROAD TIE BROWN was only
about 1/2 full, and the paint was noticably much thicker in terms of
viscosity. There was no visible indication that the bottle had been
previously used or opened before I bought it. But I have to wonder - why the
huge difference in thickness? And why was it only half full? Did one of them
evaporate due to an incomplete seal of the bottle at the factory? I was
somewhat surprised by this, but I do wonder if maybe the plastic bottles and
caps provided don't seal as tightly as they need to.
(2) I went ahead and used them anyway as-is.
The FLAT RAILROAD TIE BROWN was brushed onto the metal rails of some clean
new track. The FLAT RAIL BROWN was painted onto the ties. While the colors
looked good as they went on, the thickness of the FLAT RAILROAD TIE BROWN
was a bit of an issue. I went back and looked at things once the paint had
fully dried, and I saw that both dried to a mildly glossy finish. By no
stretch of my imagination was this a FLAT finish, yet both colors
specifrically say they are a FLAT finish paint - sez so right in the name of
(3) Once fully cured, I found that the FLAT
RAIL BROWN paint did not stick very well to the metal rails - if you breathe
on it the wrong way the paint falls right off - argh! I will say that the
(incredibly unbelievably tiny, almost microscopically small) directions for
use printed on the bottle say "Primers can be used on metals and plastics,
if desired", but I read this as telling me that primers are OPTIONAL, not
required for these surfaces
I looked over their web site at https://trucolorpaint.com/products/paint/ and did not find
any obvious place that contained directions for use, or hints for a good
finish, no recommendations for primers nor what surfaces might need priming,
I did not even find a recommeded thinner!
As I mentioned, I bought these from my LHS,
they cost $6.19 per bottle there, so for this price I kinda expected the
paint to work as advertized
So far, I am entirely disappointed - I give the
paint a letter grade of D- and I give the web site a letter grade of
If I'm doing something wrong, would someone
kindly PLEASE TELL ME WHAT THAT IS!
Thanks in advance - Claus
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 2:35
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Tru Color was ]
Vallejo box car red from micro-Mark
used Tru-Color for the 1st time last night and today. There is definitely
a learning curve with every new paint, but so far I'm mystified. I bought
TCP-019, Santa Fe Brown, to paint a Bx-31 boxcar. This is supposedly a
paint that needs no thinner. Using my Badger 200/210, I could not get it
to airbrush at all. I added Tru-color thinner 1:1 and sort of got it to
work but it was still really reluctant to flow. I tried at my normal 23
psi and at 30 psi. I did get the car painted and I like the finish, but I
feel like it happened more by forcing it than by getting decent airbrush
it the airbrush? I can try my old badger 150 dual action, but I am
reluctant because paint drying in the airbrush is clearly and issue.
it the PSI? I did see one post where the poster went to 35-40 psi.
I need to thin even more than 1:1?
Frankly I am so pleased to have Tru-Color paint available in even more
my late friend George Bishop provided for us in his line of Accu-Paint
exact same paint from the same supplier that George used after Floquil
him a hard time. I know that story all to well and never bought Floquil
Tru-Color has expanded the line and offers the same great paint I’ve used
first offered it as the new form of Accu-Paint. Even Gordon Cannon used
Accu-Paint in Erie-Lackawanna Gray to paint all samples of his products
them for advertising purposes, suggesting that I do the same with the
“Pullman Parts” line, many of which he cut the molds for and did the
his untimely loss. So why put up with the hassle of trying to figure out
are really getting when some supplier sells the same paint to several
of whom put a different label on it? This is nonsense. I’ve never had such
and have been very pleased with the way it handles and helps me keep the
cars of my choice rolling our of the car shop properly painted. I’ve know
modelers who have learned how to use Tru-Color properly who have ever been
with any other model paint they have tried on resin or styrene models. Try
how to use it properly and you’ll swear by it.
No, I have no financial involvement with Tru-Color but would be lost