Garth Groff and Sally Sanford <mallardlodge1000@...>
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An idea for you. When we have train shows again, look for an old Athearn/Globe, Thomas or Mantua steel-bodied tank. Or if you're really flush with cash, find a beat-up brass model. Then put some realistic dings into it with a tack hammer. As a bonus, you will get an underframe that probably isn't worth saving (especially the Mantua one-piece zamak casting made to fit only their weird hook-and-loop couplers). It might make a good gondola load.
I'll probably hate myself in the morning for suggesting this. I really enjoy rescuing those old metal tanks, and have saved several. They were in some ways more accurate models than their plastic replacements of the 1960s from Varney, LifeLike, Walthers, and yes, Athearn.
Garth Groff 🦆
On Tue, Nov 24, 2020 at 2:28 PM Bruce Smith <smithbf@...
Many years ago, I used a “wrecked” AC&F type 27 (IM) as a load on my Sunshine F30A. I have never been happy with that load because I wanted to portray a wrecked, burnt out tank car headed for scrap, and the soldering iron gouges just never look
right. In addition, the all over rust isn’t realistic, and I’ve learned a LOT more about rusty weathering.
Watching artistry by others with respect to wrecked cars using aluminum sheet had me thinking that I would replace part of the tank with aluminum to show the tearing rupture of the tank… but again, I worry that the rest of the tank should be deformed
as well. So, the replacement of parts of the car with aluminum sheet (pie plate?) might also lend it to being crumpled, albeit from collision forces, instead of vacuum.
On Nov 24, 2020, at 12:50 PM, Tony Thompson <tony@...
Ray Hutchison wrote:
Tony, I am waiting to see your model of this puppy!
It would certainly be an interesting challenge. Let's see, take a kit tank, heat it up until it softens -- or maybe make a new tank out of thin styrene --