O Fenton Wells
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After reading all this I’m in agreement with you Schuyler
On Mar 26, 2021, at 3:16 PM, Schuyler Larrabee via groups.io <schuyler.larrabee@...> wrote:
OK, I have to say that a paint that requires as many posts as Vallejo seems to just strengthens my opinion that anything other than Scalecoat, either 1 or 2, is a waste of time and a source of aggravation. “Just sayin,” as Fenton would say.
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Robert kirkham
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 1:55 AM
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Vallejo paint
I’ll add a couple of minor thoughts:
- Vallejo says it can be mixed by rolling the bottle back and forth between the palms for at least 60 seconds. I find this quick and easy.
- I usually put the paint into a small bottle or dish, add a bit of air brush thinner. Doing it this way, you can see if a bottle has gone bad (rare) before it goes in the airbrush cup.
- I pour into the cup, do a test pattern, and spray at about 15 pounds of pressure (a tip from the internet).
- I have a 3 gallon bucket of water with dish soap standing buy. If I mess up, the model goes into the water immediately. I also use the bucket to clean the airbrush.
- I spray more air brush cleaner through to do a final clean up. If it is stubborn, a bit of alcohol in the cup and sprayed through will clean it up. Isopropyl is not good for the gaskets in the airbrush, etc, but I use it in a pinch. I’ll occasionally disassemble and use isopropyl to clean parts that have dried on paint.
For brush painting, wow, is this stuff forgiving. I dip the paint brush in airbrush thinner to moisten (not soak) it a bit before painting. Makes clean up easier later on. I usually mix a few drops on a bit of plastic or tin foil, and brush it on the model. A small puddle goes a long way. Running out has never been a problem; just mix some more and brush it on. The overlap? Well, it's invisible to my eye. So easy makes me wonder why I bother with the airbrush. But the airbrush gives a thinner coat.
Down side: it turns to stretchy rubber if you apply a wash thinned with turpentine. That was a bad day!
Clark never mix in the paint cup as paint goes around needle and that does not mix well with paint and thinner added above. Always mix in another container - I use a large measuring spoon. There are two Vallejo paint types: Model Air ready for spraying which I find rare ( I have spayed only a few times with paint directly from the bottle) and Model Color for brushing that always must be thinned. Before any thinning I remove eye dropper bottle top which does come out of bottle and stir paint inside bottle and reinsert eyedropper top. thinning: I mix all paint for the airbrush in a large measuring spoon. Normally 30 to 40 drops of paint. The beauty of the eye drop top. Thinner: Model Air due to bottle sitting on shelf for a period of time may need to be thinned when opened so start with maybe 10 drops of thinner and work up 5 drops at a time. You should have a milk viscosity for spraying. I use a piece of rail to stir the paint and thinner in the measuring spoon. If I turn the rail after stirring vertical and the paint on the rail forms a drop and drips off paint is ready. For Model Color I start with the same number of 30 to 40 drops of paint. I start with half the number of drops, 15 or 20 of thinner and work up - again five drops at a time. Again, when drop falls off rail used for mixing thinned paint ready for spraying. On Model Color at times I will need and work up to the same amount of drops, 30 to 40 to get viscosity of thinner and paint correct. Sounds like a lot of tedious time spent mixing; however, soon second nature and you will be able to mix at light speed as you building speed.
And, one key to Vallejo paint and thinner spray mix is needle size and air pressure. The larger the needle size the better and air pressure 24 lbs or lower. BTW when I started with water base paint I started with the Paasche H. Now Passache Talon with #3 needle or Badger Patriot which has only one needle size.