Re: Tichy wheel car


fire5506
 

On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 04:14 PM, Tony Thompson wrote:
Bruce Smith wrote:
If they are new wheelsets, somebody screwed up and didn't protect the axle bearing surfaces 😉
    True, assuming they were otherwise ready for service. But often the machining of the bearing surfaces (and sometimes the wheel tread (to make sure contour was right) would be done somewhere other than the wheel foundry.
    I discussed all this, and showed prototype photos, in my article on trucks and wheels in the _Model Railroad Hobbyist_ issue for September 2016. The scene on my layout, of workmen changing out wheelsets in a truck, has both shiny and rusty wheel treads, but all journal surfaces are shiny. See below.

Tony Thompson
 

 I used to work on cars with Babbitt bearing trucks when we still had them. They were a job to replace and also to repack. 

 The journal area of the wheel sets would not be shiny metal until it is clean just prior to installing them. They are coated with a rust inhibitor. We had pans that you put under the journal to catch the mineral spirits used to clean the rust inhibitor off. You also had to look for rust and dings in the journal and use very fine sand paper to remove them.

 The wheels come from the foundry separate from the axles. They are machined to fit the axles at a wheel shop and then pressed on the axles. Back in this groups time span it would be a railroad wheel shop. 
If the wheels were new wheels they would be rusted, if turned then they would have shiny treads until they sat long enough to rust. So on a wheel car coming from a wheel shop might have both rusted tread and shiny treads, but they would be the same on each axle. 
  In the picture you cannot remove an axle with the side frames still on the bolster. The truck has to be completely disassembled. You would also need some kind of crane.
 You pick the bolster up to the top of the side frames, then remove all the springs. Lower the bolster down on to some blocking holding it up so that the top of it is about at the top of the wide spot in the side frame. Then you lift the side frame enough to take the wedge and brass(bearing) out. now you slide the side frame off. Now do the same to the other side frame. Remove the seals. Clean the well out of dirt, oil and water. install new seals. swap out what wheel or wheels are being replaced. reverse the procedure to put it back together. After being put back together install new oiled packing and fill well with journal oil.

Richard Webster

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