Re: SFRD Ice Hatch Latches

Garth Groff and Sally Sanford <mallardlodge1000@...>


Are you suggesting J-B Weld's 3,980 pound two part epoxy, the one sold in most DIY and hardware stores from a bulk box with the two tubes wrapped by the instructions with a rubber band? Or do you mean their similar 5,000 pound epoxy. The latter is very hard to find. 

I have used J-B Weld 3,980 for years to hold on my arrow points and nocks. Now that I need to remove one particular design of nocks on my favorite arrows due to a competitive rules change, I can't get them off. The J-B weld just won't let go! Great stuff. That said, it is very brittle in some uses and doesn't hold certain plastics well such Plastruct textured wall material. I have found that for model railroading their clear epoxy in the dual syringe holds better.

Yours Aye,

Garth Groff

On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 10:34 PM Andy Carlson <midcentury@...> wrote:
A good way to jump into the resin casting pond is to go to an auto parts store and purchase JB Weld original epoxy and a tube of Loctite, Permatex or other high temperature 1200 degree exhaust gasket in a tube.

Take the small part ( such as a Santa Fe reefer hatch support) and coat it with the hi-temp silicone paste. Build up in thin layers, smoothing with a wetted finger after each coating. After your new mold is sized to your liking, mix up a small amount of J.B. Weld epoxy and fill the mold's cavity. J.B. Weld makes a good high quality casting.

I made a GE wheel slip axle-end generator years ago with this method. Each loco needed 4 of these parts and I got over 50 shots in the single mold, which is a remarkable result, as most RTVs are lucky to get 20.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

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