Re: Oil Paints

Norman+Laraine Larkin <lono@...>

I think Schuyler Larrabee mentioned this when this thread was discussed
before, but Bill Darnaby's articles on weathering in the April and May 1979
issues of RMC provide all the info you need to weather with artist's oils.
There are other excellent articles on the subject of weathering, but if you
can get your hands on the Darnaby articles, it will be well worth it.
Norm Larkin

----- Original Message -----
From: Ned Carey <westernmd@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Oil Paints

Is there a reason to prefer oils to acrylics? I would have thought the
Rob Kirkham
Oils make great washes. They are thinner and more consistent as a wash. I
find with acrylics sometimes the pigment coagulates and doesn't spread as
evenly as oils.

Oils out of the tube are thick. For example on a hopper side panel they
could be stippled on to make a rust patch that has a three dimensional
quality to it. (I have not tried this yet)

I forget which color but there is a dark oil (burnt umber?) that has a
old rust color. When streaked down with a soft brush and thinner, it
a lighter "rust washed downwards" color below the darker rust patch. It's
very realistic. Mike Rose and Mike Budde have both done some excellent
articles on freight car weathering using this technique.

Since oils dry much more slowly (Al Welch asks; if ever?) they are better
for dry brushing. Great for truck sideframes to bring out the detail.

Acrylics on the other hand dry much more quickly allowing one to move on
other steps without waiting. I don't think I would even bother trying
spraying oils.

In summation both are valuable for modeling depending on what effect you
want to achieve.


To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

Join to automatically receive all group messages.