Gorilla glue is excellent - I do not know if it forms a "fillet" in a corner ... without
putting it on the surfaces between the parts being joined. I think of Gorilla as a
"high tech contact cement".
Krystal Klear works well, forms a fillet (with or without being between the parts,
dries clear, is sandable and paintable ... and has a very long drying time. It
will -not- hold parts together without assistance before it is dry. KK can also be
used for forming glazing which is what it is sold for ... I rarely use it for that
although it is excellent for headlight lenses (over SMD LEDs) and for places
windows where there is a lot of thickness such as a shake-the-box caboose.
KK is essentially pre-thinned out white glue and you can use white glue instead.
I like the fact that you can wet KK and it will soften and you can take stuff apart.
That is -not- possible with carpenter's glue. KK is 'identical' to canopy cement.
I often use "some form of caulk" such as DAP Easy/Ultra - especially useful
for different types of surfaces. Like KK it needs 'clamping' until it has set up.
It has a shorter drying time than KK but is still quite long.
I prefer to not use CA - either thin or thick ... but always have some of it for
repairs to parts where I want it to wick into a joint. CA crazes any glazing
other than glass and I do not like the way it 'flows away from the joint itself'.
I've switched from Tenax (no longer available) to Tamiya for styrene.
I never did try any adhesive you have to refridgerate - just too much fuss.
Rubber bands often make excellent clamps. I also like the "magnetic board"
systems for structures and car bodies. Anytime I can I like to "put the model
together" (clamp/hold) and then apply adhesive to the seam.