Re: Finish issues

Eric Hansmann

I followed the same decal setting steps as Nelson. I may not wick up the excess as much, but I wait until the decal areas are dry before adding more solution. I often need to poke some air holes with a pin before brushing on more solution. These are the steps I’ve used on many models that have been painted with acrylics.


Once I’m happy with the decals, then the gloss coat is applied. This might be a day after drying, or more. It depends upon the weather here.


I didn’t see any clouding after the gloss coat dried. It was another couple days until the flat coat was applied. I noticed the hazing after the flat coat had dried.


How could the flat coat react with anything under the gloss coat?



Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN



From: <> On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2022 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Finish issues


I use Micro Set and Micro Sol almost exclusively, and I’ve never had Eric’s problem, but I paint with lacquers or enamels, not acrylics. I place decals with distilled water, then wick off the excess with a small piece of paper towel. Then I apply Micro Set and wick off the excess so there’s no noticeable liquid under the decal. Before the Micro Set is completely dry, I do another application of Micro Set, gently blotting the decal with side of a soft brush to squeeze out any air bubbles or excess liquid, then wick off the liquid at the edges of the decal. After the decal is dry, I apply Micro Sol liberally and let it evaporate. Do you think clouding would be possible using my technique on acrylic paint?


The only time I’ve noticed light paint clouding is when I flooded a large herald decal with Micro Sol and evaporation took some time. The paint was Tru Color, and the clouding disappeared after the Micro Sol evaporated and the decal was thoroughly dry. In this case, clouding was everywhere the Micro Sol covered.


Nelson Moyer


From: <> On Behalf Of Dennis Storzek
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2022 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Finish issues


On Mon, Jan 24, 2022 at 07:14 AM, John Sykes III wrote:

Doesn't happen with Scalecoat I/II and Testors Dullcoat. 

Actually, it does. It is a well known fact that a wash of methyl alcohol over fully dry Dullcote will turn it milky white, in fact, a modern era modeler, Mike Rose, has done several articles on using this as a weathering technique to get a badly faded paint effect. I found this out myself years ago when I used a wash of black shoe dye and methyl alcohol over some styrene models of concrete bridge abutments to bring out the scribed form board detail, but didn't like the effect and didn't see any use for it on steam era equipment.

What I think happened to Eric's model has to do with the high humidity not allowing the Microsol trapper under the decal film dry completely, and migrate out into the flat finish top coat. Some time in a slightly warm oven likely would have prevented it, but the operative words here are SLIGHTLY WARM, lest the resin deform.

Dennis Storzek



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