Re: Rusty wheels [was] Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer


Nelson Moyer
 

I started out painting wheel faces a dark rusty color mixed from Floquil Rust and Roof Brown. The backs of the wheels were painted the same as the faces. Then I scrubbed powdered black chalk onto the wheel faces to blacken them. Chalk scrubbing is a dirty business, so I always did wheels separately before putting them into the side frames. After Floquil went away, I switched to Model Master Skin Tone Dark Tint as the base color for the front face, and Model Master Dark Tan for the rest. I used black Pan Pastel for the finish when I weathered the car. I have enough Model Master to last a lifetime, since my roster is nearly complete.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dennis Storzek
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2022 4:22 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Rusty wheels [was] Branchline UTLX Wood Reefer

 

Really nice weathering, Charlie, as on all your cars. But, we need to have a discussion about weathering wheels. Rusty wheel plates is a modern, post roller bearing thing. Solid bearings used a 'total loss' lube system, where after the oil was drawn up between the axle and bearing, a portion migrated out the back of the journal box (there was no oil seal) where ti was flung out on the face of the wheel. Of course, anything oily in a dusty environment quickly builds a coating of oily grunge. Those cast iron wheels might have started out rusty, but they didn't stay that way long.

What is everyone's favorite wheel color?

Dennis Storzek

 

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