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Re: SFRD

Nelson Moyer
 

I use Tamiya Fine Light Gray Primer, which a very light gray. I tried using Tamiya White Primer on yellow reefers, which worked well, but that was with Tru Color, which is more of an ink than a paint.  I figured that the pigment density of Scalecoat II diluted 2 parts paint and 1 part thinner would cover the gray primer, which it did. The biggest problem I’m having is that the wet paint color is significantly different from the dry paint color, so I’m over correcting in both directions, i.e. too yellow or too orange.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Scott H. Haycock
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2022 10:58 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] SFRD

 

Nelson,

 

I don't know what you are using for your primer, But if you add a little blue to the primer, might that tone down the orange some? Orange like yellow has a bit of a transparent quality to it so wouldn't this work like a pre- shading?

 

I'd suggest adding blue to the paint, but I'm afraid that would only muddy the orange toward a gray.

 

 

Scott Haycock

On 09/16/2022 9:36 AM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

 

I attached the second attempt at SFRD paint colors. The first attempt was too yellow on all cars. This one is good for L (lighest) and J (next lightest), but E and H are too orange, even though they match two of the color samples from prototype ice bunker cars I posted earlier. I'd like to find shades between L and J, and maybe a shade or two lighter than L.

Is the darker orange for E and H too orange for 1953? I don't have photo dates for the ice bunker cars I sampled, so I don't know if they were painted before 1955 or afterwards. I'm thinking about adding yellow to the darker orange paint, to bring it closer to L, then repainting E and H. 

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