scratchbuilding (was RE: GB&W steel frame auto car)
Mark,
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After attending Frank Hodina's clinic on making resin masters for single sheathed box cars, I am much more willing to try to create something new than I was before. And you don't have to make masters. You can just make two identical sides from styrene. The trick is to have the correct dimensions and draw right on the styrene base. Rivets come last (Frank uses tried and true Athearn donor rivets) and trimming and sanding the parts is the final step. So all you have to do is figure out how to kitbash those 3/3/3 ends and you're almost done! Frank fabricates hat sections with .005 styrene base (.060 wide?) with a styrene strip (.040x.060?) for the raised part. (You can figure out the correct sizes to use if you have a drawing.) He says a standard horizontal board width was 3 1/4" (or something like that) that you can use standard Evergreen strips for. DON'T USE scribed siding -- use individual boards up tight against each other or use a sheet of styrene and scribe the board lines. Frank used to use the scribed sheets but he finally seems to have mended his ways! Just doing a side should not take you more than a couple of evenings. Once you do one side, the next one should take half as long. P.S. Frank uses Testor's liquid cement -- he says it works much more slowly than Tenax. He uses it generously on the hat-sections and the styrene actually melts slightly, rounding itself off and filling in the corners to create a convincing hat section! Obviously you should experiment with this before trying it on the car side. The closest stand-in would be the Steam Shack CV cars (without end I think matching the truss pattern would be one of the most important |
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