Re: Metal Primer


Schuyler Larrabee
 

-----Original Message-----
From: buchwaldfam
[mailto:buchwaldfam@...]
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Metal Primer

Yes, vinegar works well. Also works on die
cast. (painted
an old hobbytown loco, and you knew when it had
removed all of the
corrosion: it stopped bubbling!)
I've used vinegar, but I've also dissolved salt in
the vinegar, enough to make a saturated solution,
with solid salt settling to the bottom of the jar.
I'm under the impression that this makes
hydrocloric acid (though the chemists on this list
may be correcting me on that), and it does sting
when it gets through any tears in the latex gloves
I handle the model with. However, while the brass
gets Quite Bright, it doesn't eat it away or
anything. I soak it in that for about a half
hour, with some toothbrush encouragement in areas
I'm concerned about, near soldering sites or
places I've held onto the model a lot during
working.

*snip* As one member wrote
about vinegar, rinse the model VERY THOROUGHLY
in clear water
to remove the vinegar. You don't want to leave
any acid under
the paint . . . *snip*
I'll agree with that. I just rinse it under
running water until my wife gets on my case about
"wasting water." Actually, I try to do this when
she's gone to the movies . . . 8^) Dry with
paper towels, hairdryer, oven, or simply wait, but
then there's dust problems that may arise.

Also, check the bottom of the rinsing bucket
or the
ultrasonic cleaner before you dump them out.
Besides the
loose solder joints, some brass has detail parts
ACC'ed on,
and some ultrasonic cleaning fluids will loosen
these parts.

Better to find out about loose joints NOW, than
later.

I've tried something for final degreasing
after washing
with soap and right before the paint. It's
called Sherwin
Williams SHER-WILL- CLEAN, P/N R7K156. This is
an automotive
paint supply. I'm sure that PPG, etc. also have
similar
brands. The back label says that it is,
"Designed to remove
wax, grease, tar, oil, silicones, and other
contaminants".
Works well. It doesn't so much dissolve the gunk
as it floats
it off. I got a quart can and submerged the
whole model. You
can scrub it a little bit, but keep the model
submerged and
pour the top off as any contaminants will float
to the top.
I've used it on autos, brass, and die cast.
I want to try
it on these fancy new resin kits, but haven't
yet, so don't
know if it will affect the resin. I'll try it
and let you all
know. (No sense having EVERYONE ruin their
models!)

Aren't some of those degreasers kind of full of
Really Nasty Chemicals? I used some radio tuner
cleaner to degrease the running gear of a PRR B1
switcher, which had been "lubricated" by
more-or-less packing the frame with something
resembling grease. When I read the contents, I
decided to do this outdoors, and to stand as far
upwind as I could.

Seems like you should try that stuff on some scrap
resin parts before subjecting an entire model to
it.

I also agree completely with Don Valentine about
Scalecoat, Scalecoat 1 only.

SGL

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