Couplers (was BLI Hopper Mods)

Don Strack <donstrack@...>

Denny Anspach wrote:

Without looking at the BLI hopper cars, I would have no idea what the
circumstances might be, but is adapting the Accumate Proto couplers a
viable option (i.e. will the A-P box nestle inside the BLI box?)?
The advantages would be a) superior appearance, and b) reliability
(the close-tolerance engineered integral design of the A-P coupler
shanks within the confines of its coupler box prevents the couplers
from "twisting" out, and the absence of draft angles mitigates any
uncoupling caused by the strain of a long train).
The Accumate Proto coupler may have superior appearance, and I agree, it
does, but my problem is that I can't drop one directly into an "Athearn" or
Kadee No. 5 box, or any similar box designed to accept the standard NMRA
horn-hook, or Kadee No. 5 coupler. The instructions say so, but I must be
too stupid to figure out how tom do it without affecting the overall
appearance, or the operation of the coupler. I've tried on several models,
but short of machining a completely new flat mounting pad, I'm stuck with a
Kadee No. 58, which I hate because of that ugly knuckle hanging out there,
with its ugly gap out front. I've decided on the new McHenry scale coupler -
it's a drop-in, and looks great.

For a new installation, or in my recent case, when I have to create a new
center sill, like on the Marklin/Trix UP caboose, then an Accumate Proto is
fine, and I've used them. But...

Denny, you and I and Jimmy and Andy sat at the same table while J.P. showed
us all his new design in Stockton in March, and even he said that he was
stuck with the "NMRA" box design. Mostly because he wants a direct drop-in
coupler, or one that will be an easy sell for OEM.

Don Strack

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