Re: decaling Westerfield models
Thomas M. Olsen <tmolsen@...>
Brian,
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I have used all, but my experience with Walther's Solvaset was to dilute it with a little water as I have had decals shrivel up when using it straight from a new bottle. It can be quite strong, but loses some of it's potency after the bottle has been around for a while. A friend of mine was working on an Precision Scale Borden's milk car that had decals that were a series of overlays for the four milk bottles that were two to each side. He had all but the last one done finished when he ran out of Solvaset. All that was left to do was add the overlay with the black bottle outline and bottle labeling decal to it. When he added the overlay, he forgot and opened and used a brand-new bottle of Solvaset without diluting a little of it with water. Bye-Bye-Bye overlay! It shriveled right up! He is still looking for a set of those decals ten years later as they were made for those cars only. I have not had any difficulty with the other solutions, although the MicroScale and ThinFilm decals do need a little more care in the application as they do have a tendency to disintegrate. If you have decals that have surface cracks, are very old, or are very thin, you can either airbrush them with a clear lacquer or use MicroScale's Liquid Decal Film which can be brushed over the decal in question. This will seal any surface breaks and/or give added strength to the really thin decals so that they will hold up to the setting solution better. Tom Olsen Newark, Delaware Brian Carlson wrote: Thanks all. Since the first model I plan to decal is a carload of PRR HB-1 containers for the G22B gondola. I may try Champ on one side and Mircoscale on the other since I plan to weather the crap out of the containers like Elden Gatwood's model in a issue of TKM. |
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