Re: Couplers and wheels (was: Top Ten)


Schuyler Larrabee
 

Andy Miller wrote:
"I have found that the easiest solution to Kadees with low
"gladhands" is to bend the shank slightly up or down. Many
people bend the gladhand itself and Kadee even sells a tool
for this, but I have found that if the gladhand is low (or
high) then the head probably is also; and bending the
gladhand will leave the head still in the wrong position."
Ben Hom rejoined:
Why not do the job right and correct the head height first,
then adjust the uncoupling pin as necessary? Bending the
shank seems to invite more problems.
I agree that it seems like that's asking for problems. The head will then not
be vertical, and when under load, this will encourage the coupler heads to slide
past each other and disengage.

Often the problem is that the coupler pocket allows too much vertical play, and
it results in the coupler drooping down. In a normal No 5 box I usually put a
strip of scale 1x styrene across the bottom lip of the box, positioned so that
the shank of the coupler will be riding on it. I also rub this with a Really
Soft Pencil for some graphite 'lubrication.' This reduces or eliminates the
droop, reduces the bearing area of the coupler (what it's rubbing on to begin
with), generally clears up the gladhand problem, and makes the coupler look more
correct. Of course, until the Reboxx coupler hits the streets (Please, someday
soon?) the coupler can't look Real Correct.

There is still a minor amount of vertical play.

SGL

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