I've never had a problem with cyanoacrylate. I have used Zap by Pacer
Industries for years. I buy only the super thin variety and have never used
any of the slower setting varieties (I don't have the patience for
slow-setting versions.<g>) They do have a shelf life although I can't tell
you what it is....I buy only the smallest bottle and then toss it when the
material in the bottle doesn't shake anymore. I don't try to cap the bottle
and instead just leave the "teflon" tube in place in the top of the bottle.
I don't use a needle or other kind of applicator...instead, I add a drop of
cyanoacrylate to the joint using the supplied tube and then quickly wick off
the excess with the corner of a Kleenex tissue. The joint will be dry within
seconds of wicking off the excess. If you are careful, you won't see any
glue on the joint after painting. When I want an extremely tough joint (such
as the inside of a resin box car) where the material won't show, I sometimes
add the Zap to the joint and then quickly spray it with a "kicker"
I can't tell what your problem is....possibly you are adding too much
cyanoacrylate to the joint but that is only a guess. Yes, the glue does need
humidity to dry (that is why it glues your fingers together) but, if you
don't have too much on the joint and blow on it, the humidity in your breath
might be enough. Our humidity runs around 40% year around so I can't tell if
that is the problem. You might give the super thin Zap a try.