If it is the article I'm thinking about (a plant in Wisconsin), it is more than 40 years since it appeared (likely during the Larson editorship); time flies....
And as for Richard's oenophobia, Jeff English is right, there are drinkables from boutique vineyards in New York State (although Taylor is not one). The grapes which thrive in a colder climate (and the Finger Lakes region is more temperate during the vicious winters up there than most of the rest of the state) are different grapes from those grown in CA. When he sampled the local vintage back then, California wines were also usually not world-class, either. At least the plonk paid the bills for the Bath and Hammondsport for many years.
Jace Kahn, General Manager
Ceres and Canisteo RR Co.
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