Denny's question certainly stimulated a good deal of discussion.

Dennis, asserted that Scalecoat I is an enamel. Really? It's thinner is lacquer thinner, doesn't
that suggest it really is a lacquer? That's always been my impression, but willing to learn.

Now, I've used Scalecoat 1 on brass for a very long time, always baked ~160 or so, in my own small
convection oven given to me by a friend who got a larger one for cooking. He only did plastic
models, I think. Therefore I've almost never had the danger of Denny's horrible story. I had heard
previously the first-hand account of a guy whose reworked D&H Northern became a kit by the action of
a dog jumping up and hitting the controls . . .so I always just sat by the stove when I had to use
that.

My bad (terrible) experience was after using Scalecoat to paint some FAs, (which hauled steam-era
freight cars) black, baking it nice and hard, I attempted to use the Accu-cal set with the ERIE
diamond and wings all in one piece. I was carefully moving that bedsheet of a decal around on the
nose to get it lined up . . . .just . . . ..so, when all of a sudden I noticed that I was not only
moving the decal, I was moving the entire paint sheet behind it. The Accu-set had broken the bond
between the brass and the film of Scalecoat!!

Yes, yes, the brass had been cleaned within an inch of its life, and etched so that the paint had a
tooth to hold on to, so it wasn't that. It was the interaction of the Accu-set and the paint. I
scrapped the process right then and there, stripped the model, reprimed, repainted, and did the same
damn thing again!

I can't now remember how I did it, but eventually I did get those models painted with Scalecoat and
with the Accu-cals, but it was not much fun at that point. I also learned that Accu-cals just don't
respond to any other decal-setting solution, such as Champ or Solva-Set.

So, have any of the rest of you noted lethal combinations of materials, paint, primers, decals,
setting solutions, and so on?

SGL