Re: weighting open top cars (was: Stick on weights. Was Coins as car weights)


Steve SANDIFER
 

2 solutions:

On car kits with the metal weights to go under the slope sheets, cut sheet lead to the same shape. Lead will be heavier, but not enough to solve the total light car problem.

I also use lead wool (like steel wool but lead). It can be molded into just about any shape and glued into cavities on the underside of the hopper. You can get it at any good plumbing supplier.

I want all of my cars to be as close to NMRA weight as possible without loads. I use lightweight loads and don't depend on them to get the weight up.

______________
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer, MMR
mailto:steve.sandifer@sbcglobal.net
Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918
Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX 77025, 713-667-9417

----- Original Message -----
From: Miller, Andrew S.
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 1:07 PM
Subject: [STMFC] weighting open top cars (was: Stick on weights. Was Coins as car weights)


I cast weights for hopper cars to put in the cavity under the slope
sheet and inboard of the slope sheet support sheet over the bolster.

I do this by cutting a triangular notch in the edge of a 1x3 the same
shape as the cavity I intend to fill. I then sandwich this between two
pieces of plywood and clamp the three pieces in a vise. I then melt
solder into the cavity. When it has cooled, I remove the three boards
from the vise and voila, cast weight for a hopper car! Actually I cut
several cavities in the same 1x3 so that I have a few weights cooling
at once.

regards,

Andy Miller

-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Mont Switzer
I still don't have a "pat system" for weighting open top cars.

Mont Switzer

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