Re: Seaboard 1932 ARA box cars

Rob Kirkham <rdkirkham@...>

Don, I'm not sure which drawings you are referring to, but the Mainline Modeller drawings from Nov. 92, p.42-43 show the kingpin to kingpin distance as 31'-2 3/4" (374.75 inches) and the striker to striker distance at 42'-3 3/4" (507.75 inches). The difference divided by two comes to 5' 6.5".

Rob Kirkham

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Worthy" <don_worthy@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Seaboard 1932 ARA box cars

Hey ya'll, I've just looked at a SAL diagram of the cars in question. It shows 6' 61/2" from truck center to coupler pocket face. I notice that the Over-all length of 41' 3" is measured "over the endsill" of the car. They are measured to different locations. If you could see the drawing, you can see that the numbers won't add up correctly by just using the truch spacing and overall length.
I may try to post this diagram in my folder but, I don't want to get into trouble.
Don Worthy
Ivey, Ga.

benjaminfrank_hom <b.hom@...> wrote:
Apologies for the delay in getting to this - I've been on my two
weeks of active duty for the Navy and have been standing 12-hour
daily watches and have not had time to address questions.

Rob, I think you need to pause and take a deep breath, as you're
getting confused between this SAL 1932 ARA boxcar and the 1923
ARA/Class X29 boxcars, which superficially appear similar but are
definitely NOT the same. Let's clarify some issues:

- The Red Caboose PRR Class X29/1923 ARA boxcar or F&C Class X28A as
a starting point: STOP NOW. This is the same mistake that Jim Six
made in his article in the January 2003 issue of Model RailroaDING.
The Funaro kit will give you a close match to IH, but the biggest
discrepancies are the side rivet patterns. These source kits have
two rows of rivets at the side seams, which is completely incorrect
for any 1932 ARA boxcar prototype. YOU CANNOT SIMPLY ADD SIDE SILL

- Striker-to-kingpin distance: I don't have my copy of Ted's book
with me to confirm this - the postings here that are confusing is the
inference that the SAL cars had the earlier 5 ft truck spacing, of
which I'm very skeptical - specifically, what is the defect of the
Sunshine kit? One of the hallmarks of the 1932 ARA underframe design
was the 5 ft 6 truck spacing. We need someone to confirm what the
SAL cars had before we come up with a underframe modeling plan.

FWIW, Bob Hundman did drawings of these SAL boxcars in MM. I'm
obviously away from my library and can't narrow down the results from
the online magazine index - they appeared in one of these three
issues of Mainline Modeler:
October 1992
November 1992
January 1993

Additonally, Pat O'Boyle's "Seaboard Box Car Lettering - Their 1932
ARA Variation" provides additional photos. See the October 1997
issue of Mainline Modeler.

Rob wrote:
"I suspect that at 3" variance at each end, it is too subtle to
notice in most cases (not that I am inviting a debate on what degree
of error is too subtle to notice)."

The spacing variance would actually be 6 in, and that is definitely

"If I was to go the kitbash route and not order the Sunshine kit, the
flat kit nature of the F&C X35 kit appeals to me for modelling
purposes. Borrowing the sides from the X35 and mating them to the X28
seems to have some potential. I think the F&C X28 roof is correct
for the model? I wonder if the X28 ends beneath the roof lip are
appreciably different in height than the X35 sides? Does anyone have
an X35 they could measure? I have an X28 waiting for correct side
panels on the bench that I can measure for comparison's sake."

Using the F&C PRR Class X35 (or one of their other 9 ft 4 in IH ex-
Yankee Clipper Models 1932 ARA boxcar models) as a starting point is
an outstanding idea, but not in the way you propose. Cutting up the
$30 F&C X28A is a non-starter, especially when you can get the roof
and ends from other sources. Stan Rydarowicz offers a Pullman resin
roof that can be used for this car; for the ends, you can bash them
by cutting them from two Red Caboose or Train-Miniature X29 bodies
and splicing them to make taller ends.

I've got to go back on watch. More to follow later.

Ben Hom

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