Re: applying two-layer decals

Dean Payne

No one has asked if you used a gloss coat to decal on, or whether it
was a flat coat. As you've had no silvering, I suspect you are using
a gloss of some sort. However, you don't mention it, so I thought I'd
bring it up.
I've been using Microset and Microsol, I read here that they don't
work as well on other decals. I may need to pick up some Solvaset,
and find a bottle to hold the 2/3 strength mix.
Dean Payne

--- In, "Mark Pierce" <mapie500@...> wrote:

Thanks for your advice, Ben. Still, I don't trust applying microset
to an unprotected yet completely-applied decal in preparing for the
second-level decal.

I was fortunate the second-level decal was nearly perfectly placed on
the floating first-level decal (which had been applied 12 hours
earlier and using some microset immediately before applying the
second decal.) The decals on the first side, in the end, turned out
quite well, particularly in that there is no evidence of decal film
even with bright light at oblique angles. My proposed strategy to
complete the car is to (1) decal the two ends and flat-finish the
completed side and ends, (2) single-layer decal the second side, and
after a day apply a clear finish, and (3) apply the second level
decal for the herald on the second side, and after 24 hours apply a
flat finish to that side. During this process, I'll (4) construct
and paint the underframe.

Shouldn't that work?

Mark Pierce

--- In, "benjaminfrank_hom" <b.hom@> wrote:

Mark Pierce asked:
"Regarding two-part decals as when one decal is to be applied on top
of another such as a two-color, background-lettering, railroad
herald: is it best to apply a clear coat on top of the first decals
to prevent it from coming loose (after having dried) before applying
the second decal on top of it?"

Using a clear coat really isn't necessary. What IS necessary is
completing proper application of the first layer before you begin
work on the following layers. Your first layer came up because the
Microset and Microsol failed to set it in place. Here's what I
recommend to prevent this from happening a second time:

- Use a stronger setting solution next time, but in moderation.
Rail Graphics decals that Al can be a bit touchy if you try to use
full strength Solvaset (found that out the hard way), but if you go
2 parts Solvaset with 1 part water, you should be OK. (I'm not a
big fan of the Microscale solutions - they work well with their own
and other thinfilm decals during initial application, but are not
effective on older decals printed on thicker decal film, and are
often ineffective even on Microscale decals during cleanup of air

- You MUST complete all work with the first layer before moving
That means going through initial application, drying, inspection
bubbles or silvering, correcting those defects, drying,
reinspection, etc., and finally letting it dry completely one last
time before moving on to the next layer.

- If you don't feel confident working with a stronger setting
solution during initial application, use it during correcting air
bubbles and silvering. The decal is already in place, so
it during positioning should not be an issue. Again, use it in
moderation - avoid puddling it on.

The word to remember while working with decals is PATIENCE. You've
invested a lot of time and effort in the model to this point -
ruin it because you're in a hurry to get to the finish line.

Ben Hom

Join to automatically receive all group messages.