You may have hit it on the head. But I have never seen a mold or die that could not be changed.
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Boca Raton FL 33434
My parents did not raise
any stupid children. They
sent the ten of us to the
neighbors to play and then
moved. They raised the four
of us that found them.
On Jan 17, 2008, at 8:25 PM, SUVCWORR@aol.com wrote:
I can only state what the die cutter told Dick Schweiger. Not my area of
expertise. Maybe the die cutter just didn't want to do it. I don't know.
In a message dated 1/17/2008 8:05:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
Boca Raton FL 33434
I want to die in my sleep like
my grandfather did, not screaming
like the other people in his car.
On Jan 17, 2008, at 7:50 PM, SUVCWORR@aol.com wrote:
Wrong. you can fill any cavities that you do not want. If Brass molds
In a message dated 1/17/2008 12:10:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
In your post from a month ago, Mark you mentioned C&BT kits 10'-6"
12-pnl boxcar. Looking at Walthers "Reference" book, I see 3
numbers listed (193-13500, -10500, -11300) . . . it was my
understanding most of
C&BT's later efforts are more like "Blue-Box" wanna-be's. The
question is are
any of the kit number above the older style kit with separate
grabs, etc? All I really want is the body shell/s.
C&BT on the advice of several well known modelers changed from
grabs, ladders etc. to molded on parts by recuting the dies. Once
grabs etc, were cut into the dies,
you use soldier. If steel you can weld. Then you can re-cut the area
as you want it. In My machine shop experience I have saves several
dies and molds that way.
Some times you make a mistake and you cut the area out weld or
soldier a new block in the hole and start cutting again. Easy to fix
mistakes or change things.
there was no going back without making all
new dies. All boxcars produced since that fateful time, have the
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
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