--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Rob Kirkham <rdkirkham@...> wrote:
.... I should try the fist paint coat,
perhaps lightened or otherwise pushed toward a more faded colour,and then
another coat to increase the sunburned washed out paint colour.Only then
should the clear coat and decals be applied and then the grime.Rob and all: I've painted in the fading effect a few times, and it has
turned out great. The paint coat method's greatest virtue is that the
decal lettering stands out bold and clean, representing those cars
where the base paint faded (and/or darkened along seams) but lettering
didn't (or was retouched). Basically I paint the car first with a
substantially faded base color, then add an unfaded shade of the same
paint (or just add some black or dark purple) to the same bottle and
let it work its way through the brush innards gradually. After a
couple of minutes when the darkened paint is coming out pure, I narrow
the airbrush stream, turn down the paint flow, and work it along body
panel seams and doors and other darker spots. While the pains is
still only 98 percent dry, I often smooth things out and blend them
with a light pastel chalk dusting of the basic body color (same method
as below) before I seal with a glossy coat for decal application.
I have also gotten successful fade effects on already painted and
lettered cars by mixing a daub of oil paint to match a faded version
of the body base color, then diluting it to a medium wash (I use
artist's low-odor citrus oil brush cleaner to thin). Then I lay it on
the body panels with a soft quarter inch artist's brush. After the
wash goes on, use the brush wet with thinner to spread the wash, thin
it, or puddle it as desired. Dry the brush on a paper towel and then
it works to pick up puddles of too much pigment. The wash can't be
too thinned or you won't get general fading. If you don't like the
effect, wash the car side clean with the solvent and you can start
If you do like it, I suggest going back over with a small,
chisel-shaped, stiff-bristled, dry brush to pick up most the pigment
off of the white lettering before things dry.
Often I get a bit of unevenness in the oil wash that I correct with a
variant of the chalk method below.
You can also fade a base color with pastel chalks over a car treated
with layer of Dullcote to give the surface tooth. Don't use white
chalk--pick a color of high-quality artists pastel chalk stick that is
the same basic color group, but a couple shades lighter than the
as-new paint. Lay that chalk dust over the areas you want faded, using
a hard old bristle brush to work it into the flat coat. Then
carefully clean up the lettering with a small, stiff-bristled brush as
above, only this time dampen teh cleanup brush it with water (rinse it
clean every minute or so--actually saliva works a little better than
water to pick up chalk...). Then Dullcote the car again and see
what you've got.
A good chalk fade may take two or three runs like this. Also you can
partly recover the original color where needed simply by laying on
darker chalk that matches the nonfaded base color. A lot of people
don't believe me when I tell them this, but I am comfortable enough
with these methods I do a lot of fading with light blue or pale
yellow, and darkening with dark green, blue or purples. You have to
be subtle with it, but I think it is very true there is much more
color in natural weathering than our brains process when we try to
translate a photo to a model.
I use the alcohol-over Dullcote fade method routinely on roofs
representing bare galvanized steel, but not on painted car sides.
BTW, that alcohol fade effect is 95 percent reversible, simply by
spraying a fresh layer of Dullcote over it.