Re: 40' Autobox cars

David North <davenorth@...>

It depends on what you mean as "pretty accurate". If you use the parts given
to you in the box, you will not get an accurate model. The greatest tragedy
about the C&BT line is while the concept of the
kits is very sound (providing a base carbody with separate detail parts,
e.g., ladders, grabs, brake details), the execution is dreadfully flawed to
the point that the first step in assembling a
C&BT kit is to immediately throw away the detail parts, running board, and
wheelsets, and replace them with aftermarket parts. To make things worse,
instead of correcting these deficiencies, the
manufacturer chose instead to retool the carbodies to included molded on
ladders and grabs, essentially taking a step backwards.

As for getting an accurate Fe-26, you will also need to rework the sidesill
of the kit. The Fe-26 had a distinctive full-length fishbelly sidesill with
lots of rivets. See Hendrickson's _Furniture
and Automobile Box Cars_ for more details - it's the car featured on the
cover photo.

BTW, this book is still in print and available from the SFRH&MS:

Fortunately for the HO scale modeler, the C&BT line has mostly been
superceded by Branchline (postwar boxcars) and Intermountain (SFRD reefers);
however, for some paint schemes and prototypes (most notably 12 panel welded
postwar boxcars, the auto boxcars that we've been discussing, and some
rebuilt SFRD steel reefers), they're still the only game in town. These kits
can be built into nice models, but the modeler needs to be aware that they
require some TLC to get there.
Ben Hom

Hi Ben,

By "pretty accurate" I mean that I feel the body has the correct roof, sides
and ends.

I find very few kits on the market that don't require replacement detail
parts, running boards, wheels, etc., to a greater or lesser extent, so I
don't see this as part of the criteria.

Nice if they don't need replacing, eg Kadee's PS-1, but the items I
mentioned are my primary criteria.

And I agree about the retool to moulded on details.

Front Range, Accurail, Branchline (Yardmaster) did the same thing.

Sadly we have our fellow modelers to blame here. Way too many people want a
quick fix rather than having to grow their ability to construct a more
detailed kit.

The extension of that attitude has seen the proliferation of RTR and the P2K
timesaver kits.

Rivets aside, I'm not sure I agree with you about the sidesill.

Yep, I have that excellent book by Richard H too Ben and IMHO, the C&BT
sidesill profile is reasonably close . The door track is too low, making the
sidesill appear shallow.

Unfortunately, "mostly superceded" doesn't mean much to Santa Fe modelers
wanting ATSF built cars as, to my knowledge no-one else offers a suitable
styrene 12 panel 10'6"high boxcar, or furniture/automobile car, which is the
one we were discussing.

I wish someone would do similar (16 panel) sides for 50' ATSF cars.



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