Re: 4/4/4/4 Ytown boxcar doors
Andy: Thanks for this suggestion. I'll have to weigh whether to go to
this trouble with the P2K doors, or whether to try a scratch build
with styrene. Archer rivets now make door projects like this a whole
lote more feasible.
There don't seem to be a lot of Erie modelers on this list, but if we
could get enough Erie and NP people interested, I reckon we might find
a way to cast a door set in resin. Except for the doors, this car
looks to be a not-too-difficult build from an IMRC 10ft6in IH boxcar
with 5/5 ends and rectangular panel roof, with the SPRR (sparse
parallel rivet rows) added to the side panels with Archer material,
and side sills rebuilt, something us NP guys are well used to. Oh and
National B-1 50 ton trucks from Proto2000. I can't vouch for the
underframe fidelity though, perhaps someone else can speak to that.
Or maybe Ted Culotta's already working on this as one of his Auto
boxcar projects....*he suggests hopefully.*
--- In STMFC@..., Andy Carlson <midcentury@...> wrote:
YD with similar rib spacing at the riveted joint section. Two
problems, both which are correctable with some modeling work: the
doors are 7' wide and the doors are molded as part of the car body.
right and left doors.
Camel door hardware, which will allow you to remove 6 scale inches
from each side. This will avoid having a witness line vertically
straight down the middle and avoid having to address removing the tack
board and the pull hardware. These types of modifications cry out for
making just one pair of doors and producing a mold to cast as many as
you need. Ace hardware still sells two ton epoxy in a mixing syringe
package which is an ideal casting material for small runs. You will,
of course, need to get a good quality RTV rubber for the molds.