Re: Stripping Trix UP boxcar

Tom Madden <tgmadden@...>

In late October I posted this:

Are the Trix and Marklin B-50-24/27 the same? I bought two of the
Marklin models with the Be Specific with large UNION PACIFIC
lettering when they first came out and would certainly use the
above parts and decals to upgrade/backdate them. Problem is, I was
unable to strip the one Marklin I tried using any paint stripper on
hand. (Brake fluid, Chameleon, Scalecoat, all with ultrasonic,
alcohol without ultrasonic.) I finally tried a light, low-angle
grit blast, but that removed the rivets as well as the paint. So
now I have one.
Any ideas??
To follow this up, Ted Culotta's next Essential Freight Cars article
is supposed to cover upgrading this model. He's been offering the
Trix/Marklin model through his eBay store packaged with his welded
underframe and decals, if anyone wants to get a head start. The eBay
listing shows a beautiful relettered model, and notes the original
car was stripped with Scalecoat stripper for plastics. In light of my
previous failure to strip one of these models, and armed with a lot
of respect for Ted and his abilities, I put on my WWTD (What Would
Ted Do) T-shirt, hied myself off to Caboose Hobbies and bought a new
bottle of Scalecoat Wash Away.

That did the trick, but it wasn't straightforward. Soaking for half
an hour and scrubbing with an old toothbrush eventually took off the
large UNION PACIFIC and BE SPECIFIC lettering pretty cleanly, but the
smaller lettering was unmoved. So, into the ultrasonic cleaner and,
once the energy of the ultrasonic had heated the Wash Away, the
lettering and all the paint literally blew off the shell. (I put the
Wash Away in a tall jar, and put that into the ultrasonic cleaner,
which had a couple inches of water in it.) So now I'm removing the
roof from the model and will replace it with a correct IMWX/Red
Caboose roof.

Marklin offered these in sets of ten, with about that many different
UP lettering schemes, every one with all-yellow lettering. From the
way the shell stripped, I'm guessing the lettering common to all the
versions was printed and cured first, with the version-specific
lettering printed separately. That would give the small lettering a
double cure - either heat or UV, I suspect - and explain its
reluctance to depart the shell until the underlying paint fell away.

Guess I'll strip and reletter my Trix A-50-19 while I'm at it.

Tom Madden

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