Re: ARCHER rivets on Factory Painted Boxcars


Tim -

I was thinking in "O" scale terms! I have had to add a couple of rivets here and there, not whole strips of them. They are (currently) not properly spaced on the sheet for our size stuff.

In other words, I have cut some Archer rivets out individually and applied them in the appropriate place one at a time, not in strips. It seems this could be done easier on an already painted model by painting the decal sheet first, then cutting out the individual rivets... So far, I have only done this on a pair of unpainted cars (brass B&O USRA steel low-side gons where rivets were left off.)

A.T. Kott

--- In, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

It's probably easier to paint-match the rivets than to match
the background, but that's not a bad idea for some projects.
Tim O'Connor

At 7/15/2009 04:29 PM Wednesday, you wrote:
Andy -

That is a really interesting question! Why couldn't you paint the decal sheet BEFORE you cut out and apply the rivets. I have done this with clearcoat when old decals were too fragile to apply. The paint film would be no different than a clearcoat.

In fact Mr. Francis of Thinfilm Decals fame first started with a special paper that had two glues already applied to it (German made, as I recall). To make his decal film, he first sprayed a thin (!) coating of clear lacquer on the surface of the paper, waited until it was dry, then applied the lettering/artwork with screen printing.

Seems to me that you could paint the rivets BEFORE they were applied - no difference. Anyone want to try it??

A.T. Kott

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