Re: random questions


byronrose@...
 

Hello Richard,

Since nobody seems to have answered all of your questions, I thought I'd
take it upon myself to do so and get everybody good and mad at me. Here
goes:

On Thu, 1 Mar 2001 12:56:44 EST ThisIsR@aol.com writes:
Good afternoon:
Is there a problem in getting models from Sunshine Models?
I've heard
it mentioned on other lists that it takes a very loonnggg time to
receive
models or
catalogs from this company.
The best way to get Sunshine Models is directly from Martin at one of the
many shows he goes to each year, especially his own in Naperville each
fall. Even when you order one from him in person that he doesn't have on
hand, it's still a 3 month wait. I've tried asking him for specific kits
a month before I was going to see him at a show, and it was still a 3
month wait - from the time of the show. Or ask a friend, perhaps someone
on this list, to pick them up for you when they see him.


Is there a particular detail parts company that is better at
building steam-era
super detail parts? More variety?
Best in overall quality is Grandt Line. Next is Precision Scale.
Followed by Detail Associates, Tichy, Bowser (Cal Scale) etc., etc., etc.
But keep in mind that no one company makes everything you'll need for
any freight car project. Also, you have to beware that some parts made
by some of them should be avoided. Fer instance, contrary to what some
before me have said, Tichy and Cal Scale AB brakes fall into that
category. Most, if not all of their AB brake parts are undersize. Just
compare them to the same parts made by Grandt Line (and Detail Assoc.)
which are pretty close to correct HO scale. The Cal Scale AB valve is
grossly squished, about .025" was removed from its middle many years ago,
and good old Bowser copied it in that exact misshaped form last year.
Tichys part is closer to TT scale. OTOH, the Cal Scale K brake is the
only one made with a proper size and shape to the triple valve part of
it.

Of the other parts out there, you need to try some of each and see if
they represent what you are trying to create. Remember that you are
building miniature versions of a real once-existing piece of equipment
and every part going into the miniature should be representative of that
on the full size car.


At what point did carbuilders and railroads switch from wooden
roofwalks to steel roofwalks?
Although new car construction changed from wood to steel after WW2, older
cars never were required to change and many of them retained their wood
walks until their death or disroofwalkment. Many cars had their walks
changed when they underwent a major rebuilding at some later point in
their life. The only real answer to this question is to look at photos
of that which you are modeling. If you have a photo of a 1932 built box
car taken in 1958 and it has a metal roofwalk on it, it's a good bet
that's what your model should have a metal roofwalk if you want it
representative of 1958.

BTW, the best way to represent wood roofwalks on a model is with
Evergreen 2x6 styrene strips. Almost any cast roofwalk will have board
ends and carriage bolt heads (not nails or rivets, but that's a subject
for another diatribe) patterns which will probably NOT line up with the
supports on the car you're modeling. They're easy to build from scratch,
and give your model a little customized detail visible from it's most
viewed from position.


Thank you for your time!
Richard Stallworth
You're welcome!

Byron Rose
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