Re: Painting Trucks- using a blaster as a modeling tool


Rod Miller
 

80 PSI! Be aware that at that pressure, sheet
metal, e.g. brass on your favorite model, will
warp from the heat caused by the grit's action.
Possibly not a problem on smaller models such
as HO where the blasting time may be shorter.
I know people who have warped O scale diesel
bodies.

It that happens, blasting the opposite
side of the sheet MAY return it to its
pre-blasting shape, but IMHO it is much simpler
to avoid the problem in the first place.

Rod

Ned Carey wrote:
Don't have a grit blaster? Go get one. Those of us who have them
regard them as an absolutely essential modeling tool, on a par with
a good air brush.
Absolutely, I have done a clinic on blasting at the Cocoa meet in the
past. You can do numerous things with a blaster:
a.. remove paint
b.. prepare surfaces for new paint with better adhesion
c.. clean metals for soldering
d.. remove solder residue
e.. remove glue residue
f.. remove mold release from resin parts
g.. remove lettering while leaving existing paint (change numbers)
h.. remove overzealous weathering while leaving existing paint
Grit - while researching my clinic I found that there appear to be
multiple standards for grit size. Simply asking for 220 grit may not get
you what you want.
I use the grit from North Coast Models. It is extremely fine and I
suspect finer than many wind up using. I can blast plastic at 80+ PSI on
plastic with no loss of detail. The size of the grit is more important than
the pressure when it comes to preserving detail.
The North Coast cabinet comes with two nozzles. The larger of the two is
great for stripping paint off models and more the size gun you would use
for auto work. The other is a very small tip. You really need a small
nozzle also for detail work. Honestly I think you need two guns, but if I
had to choose I would pick a small airbrush size gun/tip.
Ned Carey

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