Re: Molded-on Grab Irons (was: Heap Shields)


Tim O'Connor
 

I tried a new method this week that works very well -- I used
my 'fine' sprue nippers to remove ladder rungs from a box car
ladder, including the bolt detail. Then I glued them in place
as replacements on a broken ladder on a car. As long as the
grabs are not "drop" style, this will work on any car. It was
a lot faster and easier than drilling holes etc for wire rungs.

Tim O'Connor

This may get me raided by the Prototype Police, but I don't mind clipping molded grab irons off an open-top car and replacing them with wire, providing the car body is dimensionally OK. I don't mind doing that on a house car, either: it's a good trade-off for price. However, I find it easier to remove molded grab irons and install a ladder, than to remove a molded ladder and install ladder *grabs*. That one's hard to do without scarring the car side. One weathers heavily and hopes purists don't notice.

Ducking for cover as sirens wail,

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.


--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Bill Welch <fgexbill@...> wrote:

Dennis is correct. Heap shields for the cars we are talking about,
BTW well illustrated in several volumes of RP CYC, were a single
piece of steel. Regarding the MDC/Roundhouse part to create a heap
end, it is meant to go with a 3-bay ribbed side hopper in that line.
I have some of these to do a Southern version.

I have a some Athearn undec with heap shields so I can "sort of" get
to the L&N cars I want. I have plenty to keep me busy so I will give
Athearn some time to see if they redo their offset twin with separate
grabs.

I will grab some of Dennis' new car and I have 3 Atlas cars w/radial
ends and sets of Martin's "Alternate Sides" to do 3 Clinchfield cars.

I just would rather not spend time carving and drilling. Oh well!

Bill Welch

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