Re: Painting Resin Freight Car Kits


Rob & Bev Manley
 

You should see what I charge for a used car.
Rob Manley

----- Original Message -----
From: John Stokes
To: stmfc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 12:38 AM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Painting Resin Freight Car Kits




Pretty pricey nail file boards, must give a really good finish. :).

John S.

To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
From: robev1630@sbcglobal.net
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 23:23:43 -0600
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Painting Resin Freight Car Kits

PAul,

I always wash my sheets of castings with Dawn detergent and a little BArkeepers Friend cleanser before separating and sanding the parts. I use a nail board with different grits equal to 100, 200, 300, 400, 600, 800 that I buy at Walgreens for about $100.00 each. I sand the mating edges to break the glossy back surface and sand (even the tiny ones) parts to remove the flash the X-acto won't get. Walgreens or Home Depot ACC works for me and when fresh is as good as the hobby shop brands.

When assembled I gve the car a bath again with dawn and a toothbrush or a 3/4" wide artist oil painter brush. I don't submerge the car so no water enters the body. let dry or coax some of the water away with a hair dryer being careful to not warp the body. I spray all my models with Poly Scale waterbase with no primer. Most of the boxcar colors don't need a primer to neutralize the plastic and resin parts and cover quite well. Glosscoat with Pledge/Future floor acrylic polish and decal per MIcroscale instructions. Flat finish with Poly Scale Flat or MIcroscale flat.

DONE.

Rob

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