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Although I have had mixed success mixing epoxys in the correct 50/50 portions (go figure) the time when I have been successful and the joint has actually hardened, this has worked well. At one point I could find very small packets of resin for small jobs which also was foolproof in mixing. Wish I could find more of these.
The other thing I have done is to drill the small part to receive a piece of wire which acts as a pin. A hole also needs to be drilled at the location where the part fits of course but this creates a strong joint.
This works well with resin also. On F&C's beautiful SP/T&NO 50-ft DD SS boxcar, the door stops looked very vulnerable to me so I pinned them at their location.
Hope this helps!
--- In STMFC@..., larrywolohon@... wrote:
This may sound rather primitive, I have had good luck with good old Goo. If you can get a syringe, like an insulin & put it in the syringe, you can control the amount real well. Goo is also flexible.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pierre" <pierre.oliver@...>
Sent: Wednesday, August 4, 2010 4:21:47 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: CA and brass
Yes I know solder is a bit of a no brainer, but for one project I have very thick brass sides and have to add many very delicate details. I'm afraid of overheating the base or melting away the details. My practice sessions to date have not been very successful.
--- In STMFC@... , Anthony Thompson <thompson@> wrote:
Pierre Oliver wrote:
I'm having an issue bonding brass to brass using CA. The adhesiveUm, solder? Works great.
peels off of the brass very easily.
I've roughed up the mating surfaces some, I've made sure the brass
is clean. All the usual stuff.
I had a Bethlehem Car works coach turn into a kit again while
traversing the mails with all the glue joints failing.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@
Publishers of books on railroad history