Re: CA and brass

Denny Anspach <danspach@...>

Bill Welch reports-

....the door stops looked very vulnerable to me so I pinned them at their location.
If these are Z-shaped undercut door stops, they are indeed endangered and doomed species as applied, most especially if they are of the cast resin ilk. However, I was informed by one of our most reliable resin kit suppliers that the master patterns were- Tichy styrene door stops!. With that knowledge, I laid in a supply of the superior Tichy product and have never looked back. Pinning these small parts in place is an excellent expedient; it is easy; and it works!

and Tony Thompson states-

Canopy cement is NOT the same as MicroClear.
Tony undoubtedly knows something that I do not. My own experience with these cements, which I use primarily to work with paper and wood, or for low stress joints that can be easily cleaned up or separated with water, is that they are, in practice, remarkably similar. Others, probably no more knowledgable than me have also opined that the two were similar, if not the same.

I use the canopy cement extensively for joints of DISSIMILAR materials, for which it is quite effective.
I would add that these cements generally are NOT useful with metals, styrene, or resin unless some tooth or means of "grabbing on" to the facing surfaces are present. Even then, the joint will be inherently very weak.

I would again emphasize to those advocating the use of epoxies to avoid the siren song of the "5 minute" varieties. The resulting joints are not strong, and they can be remarkably brittle; and when the modeler is faced with cleaning up the failed joint for a re-do with a better cement, there will the devil to pay in trying to clean things up (epoxy is thoroughly solvent-resistant).

Although I have direct access to a wide variety of industrial-grade epoxies that I have used for 35 years in wood boat restoration and rebuilding efforts, for convenience, I simply use small tubes of standard "2-ton" epoxy, usually available at most hardware stores. I keep them in my wife's refrigerator freezer so that they can last the usual 5-6 years that it takes me to use them up.

A final cautionary note with epoxies: keep pretty close to the mixing formula on the directions, and when you mix the two parts, mix them well: and when you think that they are well-mixed, assume they are not, and start mixing all over again for an equal length of time.

Soldering brass: Like in most things in modeling, there is no single best way of soldering. These is one thing certain, however: there is a learning curve. For those seriously into brass modeling, there is no substitute these days for the use of resistance soldering units, the more available power the better. The learning curve for resistance soldering for securing small parts without melting, burning, or unsoldering everything else in sight is considerably shorter than that which was required at one time by the wonderful Japanese artisans who secured each and every small brass part on our best brass models with monster soldering irons with tips seemingly as large as the model locomotive boilers.


Denny S. Anspach, MD
Okoboji, Iowa

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