Re: Archer rivets


Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

For making a long narrow strip, a rivet punch IMHO works very well. I wanted such a strip for the bottom of a streamlined resin kit coach side. I punched a row of rivets in .005" thick styrene about 1/2" wide, CA'ing it to the bottom of the side after first attaching it with Testor's solvent. More CA filled the joint between side and rivet strip, with Mr. Surfacer painted into the joint for good measure. I then trimmed the rivet strip to conform with car side, using progressively finer grades of sandpaper to 1500-grit. Result--an invisible joint between rivet strip and car side.

It's easier to keep a straight piece of 1/2" wide styrene with rivets punched in it straight, than it is to keep a long decal strip straight. And I get to pull out my hair when my son does something annoying rather than pulling it out while decalling.

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@..., "Ned Carey" <nedspam@...> wrote:

In my "what on your bench" response I mentioned a Shay I was working on. I had the first opportunity to use Archer rivets. I needed about a one inch long row of rivets on about a .050" wide strip of brass.


My thoughts:
1) Firstly I was disappointed in the shape of the rivets. They seemed to be an irregular oval shape not round. Painted and in use I don't think it is as big a concern as I thought when I saw the package. Is this irregular shape common for Archer?

2) I found it difficult to handle the full 1" long strip of rivets. I would up putting them on in strips of 2 to 4 and lining them up. This worked fine. Tony Thompson mentioned in an earlier e-mail that he got the hang of working with the long strips. Any tips Tony?

3) I didn't see anyone else mention a tip in the instructions. Brush a little Future acrylic floor polish (essentially clear acrylic paint) and apply the decals while the Future is still wet to help adhesion. I did this on bare brass and it worked fine. - In fact I needed to scrape off a couple that were in poor alignment. This was done before any overcoat on the decals. It took some effort to scrape them off. They were not delicate at all.

I wouldn't hesitate to use them again. I can see this could be another significant advance in modeling technology. Builders plates, trust plates, hinges, patch panels and many other details could be done this way.

Ned Carey



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