Thank you Rob, great post. I've had a good experience with Polly Scale as well, using many of the precautions you described so thoroughly. When I first open a jar, I throw a half-dozen BBs in and shake the dickens out of it.
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Peace, Rick Aylsworth
--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Rob & Bev Manley" <robev1630@...> wrote:
I use Polyscale for both brush painting and airbrushing. for the brush
painting I use high quality artist brushes from Langneckl, Windsor Newton,
Grumbacher and others found at real art stores. Never the cheap brushes from
the LHS. They are watercolor sable or soft natural hair, some times for a
stiffer bristle I will use the synthetics made for acrylics. I use the same
bottle for airbrushing. I clean the top rim of the bottle and shake or stir
the paint. Stirring when the muck is thick at the bottom and I can see other
colors down there like blue to be mixed into the grey.
I use a single action Paasche H with a number 3 tip. If I suspect an older
bottle I will strain the paint into my feed cup. I use a clean Micro Sol
bottle that I cut the bottom out of and drop a faucet screen into the funnel
end. (inverted top of the bottle).
I spray at 35 PSI with regulated/ filtered air into a holding tank. I thin
with generic tasteless bottle water like Ice Mountain. Distilled water works
too. Between color changes I dump the remaining paint into the trash can,
flush with water and clean with a feed cup of Windex with amonia. If I use a
stubborn color I'll run some Laquer Thinner through the brush. If I cant get
a decent pattern out of the brush I''ll dissassemble it and swab out the
brush, nozzle and cup with pipe cleaners and a Q-Tip.
If I rush and mess up, I go to the sink, douse the model with Windex and
scrub with luke warm water and an artist Oil natural bristle brush.
I gloss coat with Future and give it a day before I decal. I use Polyscale
flat finish thinnedto about 30 - 40% depending on how it looks in the
bottle. Some batches can have more viscosity than others. I stopped using
Isopropyl alcohol when I bought a bottle of 91% and turned my paint into a
sludge. The non tap water works fine.
I admit it does have a steep learning curve but the health benefits far out
weigh it for me and my wife.
----- Original Message -----
To: "Stmfc" <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 8:24 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Warning Labels
John remember this. Water based paints are for kids to use for finger
painting! Denis Blake
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
From: John Golden <golden1014@...>
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 17:44:12
Subject: [STMFC] Warning Labels
I told my wife today that the next time I say I'm going to paint a model
water-based paint, that she should take the biggest, heaviest iron skillet
have and SMASH ME over the head with it first. It would be a much more
efficient means of causing pain and complete frustration.
Today, in just 45 minutes, I managed to ruin the roofs and ends of three
cars and a GN DS box car with splotches, blobs, paint oceans, and other
from using water-based paint. I should've known better. And this was after
spending mucho Johnny-bucks on paint and thinners, cleaning the airbrush
minutes, cleaning numerous clogs and malfunctions, and most importantly
an hour away from the wife and kids. My reward for all this effort?
four hours of work. Next the models will get sandblasted (again), then
then painted with good, old fashioned, sticky-but-perfect Scalecoat.
No kidding; that stuff should have a Warning Label on it that reads
Warning: This stuff approved for bush-painting only. DO NOT not attempt
to airbrush. Using this paint with an airbrush will cause irritation,
frustration, anger, and homicidal behavior. Excessive smashing of nearby
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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