While I don't have any personal experience, there have been reports of baking
soda/cyanoacrylate joints failing over time:

http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewtopic.php?t=78005&sid=ddd5a03eb3377031fd49e2a496272b81

search for a post by ajmadison for a perspective on the subject.

I have heard of folks substituting talc, not sure if this should be pure talc or
if cosmetic powders will suffice, or microballons as these should be inert.

.vp



________________________________
From: Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Wed, December 29, 2010 11:17:15 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: A great glue for resin kits



So... a simple lookup of Cyanoacrylate with Google reveals that chemically
it is a weak acid, and that "accelerator" or "activator" is simply an akaline
or base chemical that neutralizes the acid. The activator is used in all cases
as a preparation on the surface to be bonded. The Wikipedia page notes that
many modelers use BAKING SODA to create their own "gap filling" mixtures.

"Cyanopoxy" and similar superglues that have greater tensile properties and
are less brittle might be variations of n-Butyl Cyanoacrylate, which is the
common medical form of CA. This may include the Loctite product. From what I
can find online it's not inherently more expensive than any other CA. I also
tried the ridiculously expensive Cyanopoxy and was very underwhelmed, and it
hardened on me less than a year after opening. (My basement is cool and open CA
usually lasts 3-4 years.)

Tim O'Connor

After struggling through many different adhesives, some of which left a brittle
joint, some a white film, some which didn't work at all; I have found Loctite
for plastics. Following the directions in the use of the activator and glue will
lead to great results, an invisible, super strong joint. I'm done with expensive
exotic glues as this can be found at Home Depot for three bucks. If anyone here
knows a hobby shop owner tell them to stock this product.

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