Date   

Re: C&BT Shops

Tim O'Connor
 

Oops, I omitted at least one issue -- RMJ 5/1991 --
http://www.trainlife.com/magazines/pages/61/4412/may-1991-page-44

Tim O' :-)

Steve Haas wrote

> The other 16 are spread out through the list and need prototypes - which
> kit numbers are bogus? Can folks provide road name and series for possible
> prototypes for the legitimate versions?

Steve

Wow. Ya know, I don't think it's unreasonable to expect modelers here to
be able to do at some least SOME of their own research. I just did a quick
scan of my saved emails and found 400 that mentioned C&BT. I'll give you a
leg up -- you can check Railmodel Journal articles from 9/1989, 12/1989,
1/1990, 2/1990, 7/1990, 5/1992, 12/1992, 10/1999.

Also Mainline Modeler 1/1991 (Mike: A-50-19), 10/1992, 9/1993, 4/1994.

Tim O'Connor


Re: Roof Cement?

Tim O'Connor
 

Ed

I think of it as something of a "fad" -- after metal roofs were adopted,
they needed protection from rust. First came galvanization which helped
a lot, especially when painted, but then someone had the brilliant idea
of using this coating -- and maybe it was cheap to use so why not? But
eventually (after 20 yrs or so) they figured out that it really didn't
extend the life of the roof and that sealing the seams between the roof
panels was the only thing that really mattered. Nowadays it's not unusual
to see a filthy rusted box car roof with fresh sealant on the seams.

Tim O'Connor

Jim,
Black car cement was in use on freight cars throughout the 1940s and
well into the 1950s if not later. As an example, Pullman-Standard used
black car cement extensively during the 1950s to coat the underframes,
roofs, and ends of many of their PS-1 box cars. On these cars the only
things not black were the sides and doors. By the mid-1950s, unpainted
galvanized roofs became more common, but car cement was still used on
some orders. In some cases, even if the roof panels were unpainted, the
seam caps often received a coat of black car cement.
Regards,
Ed Hawkins


Re: New glue

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Oh! Indeed!! Backbreaking expense!!





NOT.


SGL



Bill Dixon wrote:
As usual Walthers:
Canopy Glue - 2 Ounce Bottle
Walthers Part # 547-56, p. 821 Walthers 2011 HO Scale Reference
$3.99, currently in stock at Walthers
I note that Barge Cement costs $3.29 for 3/4 ounce. A bit
steeper than canopy cement.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
<mailto:thompson%40signaturepress.com>
Publishers of books on railroad history








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Re: New glue

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Bill Dixon wrote:
As usual Walthers:
Canopy Glue - 2 Ounce Bottle
Walthers Part # 547-56, p. 821 Walthers 2011 HO Scale Reference
$3.99, currently in stock at Walthers
I note that Barge Cement costs $3.29 for 3/4 ounce. A bit steeper than canopy cement.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: New glue

W.R.Dixon
 

On 2011-08-08 3:31 PM, Denny Anspach wrote:
For many years now, I simply use good old flexible Barge cement to hold Plano and other running boards. Tried and true, and commonly available.
As usual Walthers:

Canopy Glue - 2 Ounce Bottle
Walthers Part # 547-56, p. 821 Walthers 2011 HO Scale Reference
$3.99, currently in stock at Walthers

Bill Dixon


Re: Roof Cement?

Ed Hawkins
 

On Aug 8, 2011, at 6:20 PM, Jim Betz wrote:

Wasn't roof cement essentially the same stuff that we see
today when a crew is doing "hot mopping"? But applied a
bit thinner and without heating? As it wasn't it just a
form of tar/petroleum product that was brushed on using a
very large paint brush?

When did the use of this product 'fall out of favor' for
paint? Before WW-II? After WW-II?
- Jim
Jim,
Black car cement was in use on freight cars throughout the 1940s and
well into the 1950s if not later. As an example, Pullman-Standard used
black car cement extensively during the 1950s to coat the underframes,
roofs, and ends of many of their PS-1 box cars. On these cars the only
things not black were the sides and doors. By the mid-1950s, unpainted
galvanized roofs became more common, but car cement was still used on
some orders. In some cases, even if the roof panels were unpainted, the
seam caps often received a coat of black car cement.
Regards,
Ed Hawkins


Re: New glue

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Ron Merrick wrote:
Sorry, I mean canopy glue, for those who noticed my unreferenced 'it'.

Is it less stringy than Shoe Goo?
I'd say not stringy at all. In the jar, it acts and looks like white glue.

Tony Thompson
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937;
e-mail: thompson@signaturepress.com


Re: New glue

mopacfirst
 

Sorry, I mean canopy glue, for those who noticed my unreferenced 'it'.

RG7

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "mopacfirst" <ron.merrick@...> wrote:

Is it less stringy than Shoe Goo? I've had good success, meaning no detachments (failures), with this on attaching stainless roofwalks to cars. I also try very hard not to expose these things to temps lower than +50 F, but that's because my ambient is sometimes higher than I'd like when I do the attachment.

Ron Merrick


Re: New glue

mopacfirst
 

Is it less stringy than Shoe Goo? I've had good success, meaning no detachments (failures), with this on attaching stainless roofwalks to cars. I also try very hard not to expose these things to temps lower than +50 F, but that's because my ambient is sometimes higher than I'd like when I do the attachment.

Ron Merrick


Roof Cement?

Jim Betz
 

Hi,

Wasn't roof cement essentially the same stuff that we see
today when a crew is doing "hot mopping"? But applied a
bit thinner and without heating? As it wasn't it just a
form of tar/petroleum product that was brushed on using a
very large paint brush?

When did the use of this product 'fall out of favor' for
paint? Before WW-II? After WW-II?
- Jim


Re: New glue

Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
 

Testors has a canopy or clear plastic glue. It is something akin to a
modified white glue. Micro Krystal Klear (or Crystal Clear) also works the
same way.



The flexible metal to plastic adhesive sounds something like "Gator Glue", a
product that was touted as a miracle solution for attaching small
photo-etched brass pieces to models. I haven't heard much about it lately.



KL


Re: New glue

Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

For many years now, I simply use good old flexible Barge cement to hold Plano and other running boards. Tried and true, and commonly available.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach, MD
Okoboji, Iowa


Re: New glue

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Tim O'Connor wrote:
Tom, Google is your friend:

http://www.ehobbies.com/paapt56.html
So is Wikipedia. On their Adhesives page, under lotsa stuff about CA, there is a section 5.1 about RC 56.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: New glue

Richard Hendrickson
 

On Aug 8, 2011, at 2:52 PM, Thomas Baker wrote:

Where does one purchase canopy glue? Sounds like a good product to
use but who sells it?
Tom, there's no mystery about this adhexive. It's available from any
decently stocked hobby retailer who handles airplane models. If you
don't have one in your area, try Des Plaines, Caboose, the Train
Station - any of the usual model RR shops that do mail order. I use
J&Z Products' Z RC76, but there are several other brands, all equally
good.

Richard Hendrickson


Re: New glue

Thomas Baker
 

Tim,

Right. I thought of that after posing the question. I just didn't think it was a hobby type glue. Thanks for the tip abotu this product.

Tom
________________________________________
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [STMFC@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of Tim O'Connor [timboconnor@comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2011 5:58 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: New glue

Tom, Google is your friend:

http://www.ehobbies.com/paapt56.html


Where does one purchase canopy glue? Sounds like a good product to use but who sells it?
Tom



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: New glue

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Where does one purchase canopy glue? Sounds like a good product to use but who sells it?
Most any LHS that sells airplane models will have it. You can buy it on Amazon too. Search under ZAP Formula 560.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: New glue

Tim O'Connor
 

Tom, Google is your friend:

http://www.ehobbies.com/paapt56.html


Where does one purchase canopy glue? Sounds like a good product to use but who sells it?
Tom


Re: New glue

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Tim mentions Microscale Krystal Kleer, not quite the same stuff, but effective. The air modeler's canopy glue for years was Wilhold R/C-56 (for Radio/Control), no longer produced. Now JZ Products makes a modified version, "Super RC-Z-56," which seems to be the same. Some aircraft modelers prefer an almost identical product, Pacer's Formula 560. (notice the "56" in all of these?) Sometimes the Pacer stuff is sold under the Zap name.
This stuff kind of looks like and acts like white glue, but it is NOT the same. It really sticks to plastics, unlike white glue, and it dries clear. It gets tacky pretty quickly, so is easy to use assembling things. I like it for wood to plastic, wood to metal, and metal to plastic.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: New glue

Thomas Baker
 

Where does one purchase canopy glue? Sounds like a good product to use but who sells it?

Tom
________________________________________
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [STMFC@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of Anthony Thompson [thompson@signaturepress.com]
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2011 4:47 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: New glue

Clark Propst wrote:
The fella that used it on the model that was displayed at the St
Louis meet seid he used the thick to hold his Plano running boards
on the placric hopper.
He also said it's only been in place for a couple weeks.
I've been using canopy glue for etched metal running boards
(and etched metal grilles on F units) for 25 years. Every instance
remains well attached and flexible. With CA, even a modest temperature
excursion, expanding or contracting the metal more than the plastic,
pops the metal right off. With canopy glue, no problems, ever.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: New glue

Tim O'Connor
 

Clark Propst wrote:

> The fella ... used the thick to hold his Plano running boards

One other thing about CA -- thickening it has ZERO impact on its
mechanical strength -- thin CA and thick CA have the same extremely
poor shear strength. Shearing forces are what happens when materials
expand at different rates -- plastic and etched metal, for example.
An etched running board on a plastic roof is just about the hardest
application for CA there is in our hobby -- the longer the rb, the
higher the shearing forces.

Tim O'Connor

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