Date   

Re: Retaining valves for freight cars

Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
 

At a seminar on modeling techniques the speaker mentioned that Slater's rod
behaved differently when softened by solvent than Evergreen. In particular,
Slater's was more suitable for simulating weld beads after being softened.



KL





From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Barrybennetttoo@...
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 1:03 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Retaining valves for freight cars



I use very fine plastic rod, available here in the UK from Slaters
Plasticard, but I believe the same(?) item is available from Evergreen or
similar.

I do much the same as below but use a couple of dabs of MEK . As long as
the 'wire' touches the end corrugations the process of spray painting adds a

bit more grab and holds it in place.


Re: Another Sunshine update

rgmodels@...
 

Charlie Slater, would you contact me as I need some pattern work for some HOn3 tank cars.

eric

rio grande models

rgmodels@...

-----Original Message-----
From: charles slater <atsfcondr42@...>
To: STMFC List <stmfc@...>
Sent: Sun, Aug 14, 2011 11:16 am
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Re: Another Sunshine update



Sunshine has not gotten anything from Ted at Speedwitch. I worked on some of the
patterns for these cars and others.
Charlie Slater




To: STMFC@...
From: brianleppert@...
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 02:32:58 +0000
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Another Sunshine update








Included in Martin's "Naperville Introductions" flyers are a Pere Marquette
single-sheathed box car and a couple of Wabash auto cars--all that have
previously been done as kits by Speedwitch.

Has Sunshine acquired some or all of the Speedwitch line, or are these entirely
new efforts?

Brian Leppert
Carson City, NV

--- In STMFC@..., Jim Hayes <jimhayes97225@...> wrote:

I received a CD from sunshine today so -

There is a better quality Naperville Introductions page available.


Jim Hayes
Portland Oregon
www.sunshinekits.com









------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


NBW

Eric Mumper
 

Group,

I should probably know this, but I would like to get some opinions on what NBW castings you would use for a project. I need to replace the end ladder stiles for the Speedwitch Wabash car (109.3). These are grab iron ladders and the stiles can be fabricated with strip styrene. What NBW would you suggest? Thanks.

Eric Mumper


Re: Retaining valves for freight cars

Barrybennetttoo@...
 

I use very fine plastic rod, available here in the UK from Slaters
Plasticard, but I believe the same(?) item is available from Evergreen or similar.

I do much the same as below but use a couple of dabs of MEK . As long as
the 'wire' touches the end corrugations the process of spray painting adds a
bit more grab and holds it in place.

Barry Bennett
Coventry, England.

In a message dated 16/08/2011 15:52:20 GMT Daylight Time, ku0a@...
writes:




I attach the wire to the retainer valve, run it down the end with the
correct angle, bend it 90 degrees, and run it to the front of the bolster.
The line to the triple valve depends on available prototype information, or
lacking that, the path of least resistance. I don't use eyebolts, since
they
are oversized, compared to the 0.008 wire. I simply tack the line to the
car
end with a tiny bit of CA in two places where the normal attachments would
be. That approach passes the 18 in. test, which is my normal viewing
distance on a layout (the middle lens of my trifocals).

Nelson

-----Original Message-----
From: _STMFC@... (mailto:STMFC@...)
[mailto:_STMFC@... (mailto:STMFC@...) ] On Behalf Of O
Fenton Wells
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 9:19 AM
To: _STMFC@... (mailto:STMFC@...)
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Retaining valves for freight cars

I would like to thank all the people who responded and gave me ideas on
this
subject. I learned a lot! One last questin on this subject and that is if
I really drink the cool aid and go to the .008 wire for the retainer valve
piping how do you attach that wire to the car end? I assume DA eyebolts but
everytime I assume....well you know. Thanks again, Fenton Wells

On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 11:10 AM, O Fenton Wells
<_srrfan1401@... (mailto:srrfan1401@...) >wrote:

Thanks Mark, I ordered some from Caboose Hobbies and they are on back
order. I have a few "close enough" ones to get by for now. Fenton
Wells

On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 8:58 AM, Rossiter, Mark W
<_Mark.Rossiter@... (mailto:Mark.Rossiter@...)
> wrote:

**


The brass ones are in stock at Walthers if you only need a few and
don't want to come up with a $30 order. The plastic ones are on back
order, so you're stuck with going direct to PSC for those.

- -Mark


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
_srrfan1401@... (mailto:srrfan1401@...)
--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
_srrfan1401@... (mailto:srrfan1401@...)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Retaining valves for freight cars

Andy Sperandeo <asperandeo@...>
 

Hello Fenton,

The eyebolts can get bulky, and I've taken to attaching small bits of styrene 1x2 to the end of the car to represent the straps of pipe brackets. A little superglue will hold the .008" wire nicely in the corner formed by the 1x2 and the car end. I've posted a photo labeled "SAL B6 B end" to my "Andy S freight cars" album on the STMFC Yahoo website that shows this technique on an unpainted Sunshine model. It will appear as soon as the moderator approves it. There's also a photo labeled "B end SRLX 5236" that shows a painted Sunshine Swift reefer with one of these "pipe bracket" tabs. It's a little hard to see but it's just under the lefthand brake step support next to the third grab iron down from the top.

By the way, that SAL boxcar has the retainer valve from the Detail Associates AB brake set rather than a PSC valve. The SRLX reefer does have a PSC retainer valve.

So long,

Andy

Andy Sperandeo
Executive Editor
Model Railroader magazine
asperandeo@...
262-796-8776, ext. 461
FAX 262-796-1142


The Keystone Modeler No. 77, Summer 2011

Benjamin Hom
 

The Summer 2011 issue of TKM is up at:
http://www.prrths.com/Keystone%20Modeler/Keystone_Modeler_PDFs/TKM%20No.%2077%20-%20Summer%20-%202011.pdf

featuring the following articles:

Modernizing the Proto 2000 EP-3 (EMD E7) in HO Scale by Jack Consoli
 
Modeling Pennsy’s P70gsr Coach by Bob Chapman

Welding Shop at Sodus Point, NY by Ed Swain
 
2011 Annual Meeting Model Contest Winners by the TKM Staff


Ben Hom


Re: Retaining valves for freight cars

O Fenton Wells
 

Thanks Nelson, I will try it.
Fenton Wells

On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 10:51 AM, Nelson Moyer <ku0a@...> wrote:

**


I attach the wire to the retainer valve, run it down the end with the
correct angle, bend it 90 degrees, and run it to the front of the bolster.
The line to the triple valve depends on available prototype information, or
lacking that, the path of least resistance. I don't use eyebolts, since
they
are oversized, compared to the 0.008 wire. I simply tack the line to the
car
end with a tiny bit of CA in two places where the normal attachments would
be. That approach passes the 18 in. test, which is my normal viewing
distance on a layout (the middle lens of my trifocals).

Nelson

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of O
Fenton Wells
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 9:19 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Retaining valves for freight cars


I would like to thank all the people who responded and gave me ideas on
this
subject. I learned a lot! One last questin on this subject and that is if
I really drink the cool aid and go to the .008 wire for the retainer valve
piping how do you attach that wire to the car end? I assume DA eyebolts but
everytime I assume....well you know. Thanks again, Fenton Wells

On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 11:10 AM, O Fenton Wells
<srrfan1401@...>wrote:

Thanks Mark, I ordered some from Caboose Hobbies and they are on back
order. I have a few "close enough" ones to get by for now. Fenton
Wells

On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 8:58 AM, Rossiter, Mark W
<Mark.Rossiter@...
wrote:
**


The brass ones are in stock at Walthers if you only need a few and
don't want to come up with a $30 order. The plastic ones are on back
order, so you're stuck with going direct to PSC for those.

- -Mark







--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@...
--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@...



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@...


Re: Retaining valves for freight cars

Nelson Moyer <ku0a@...>
 

I attach the wire to the retainer valve, run it down the end with the
correct angle, bend it 90 degrees, and run it to the front of the bolster.
The line to the triple valve depends on available prototype information, or
lacking that, the path of least resistance. I don't use eyebolts, since they
are oversized, compared to the 0.008 wire. I simply tack the line to the car
end with a tiny bit of CA in two places where the normal attachments would
be. That approach passes the 18 in. test, which is my normal viewing
distance on a layout (the middle lens of my trifocals).

Nelson

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of O
Fenton Wells
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 9:19 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Retaining valves for freight cars


I would like to thank all the people who responded and gave me ideas on this
subject. I learned a lot! One last questin on this subject and that is if
I really drink the cool aid and go to the .008 wire for the retainer valve
piping how do you attach that wire to the car end? I assume DA eyebolts but
everytime I assume....well you know. Thanks again, Fenton Wells

On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 11:10 AM, O Fenton Wells
<srrfan1401@...>wrote:

Thanks Mark, I ordered some from Caboose Hobbies and they are on back
order. I have a few "close enough" ones to get by for now. Fenton
Wells

On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 8:58 AM, Rossiter, Mark W
<Mark.Rossiter@...
wrote:
**


The brass ones are in stock at Walthers if you only need a few and
don't want to come up with a $30 order. The plastic ones are on back
order, so you're stuck with going direct to PSC for those.

- -Mark


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@...


--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Retaining valves for freight cars

O Fenton Wells
 

I would like to thank all the people who responded and gave me ideas on this
subject. I learned a lot! One last questin on this subject and that is
if I really drink the cool aid and go to the .008 wire for the retainer
valve piping how do you attach that wire to the car end? I assume DA
eyebolts but everytime I assume....well you know.
Thanks again,
Fenton Wells

On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 11:10 AM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...>wrote:

Thanks Mark, I ordered some from Caboose Hobbies and they are on back
order. I have a few "close enough" ones to get by for now.
Fenton Wells

On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 8:58 AM, Rossiter, Mark W <Mark.Rossiter@...
wrote:
**


The brass ones are in stock at Walthers if you only need a few and don't
want to come up with a $30 order. The plastic ones are on back order,
so you're stuck with going direct to PSC for those.

- -Mark


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@...


--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Flat car model

Frederick Freitas <prrinvt@...>
 

Clark,
 
Where do we place an order for one of these flat car kits ?
 
Fred Freitas

From: "cepropst@q.com" <cepropst@q.com>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 11:24 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Flat car model


 
From Gene Green
M&StL - 100 50 ton, 50' cars, built 1931 GATC, retired 1977, 23001-23199 series, odd
numbers only.

These cars will be in my "M&StL cars YOU should model" Lisle clinic. I think I put an early version of the handout in the files? It should list some of these cars.
Clark Propst


Re: New York Central online modeling magazine

Jared Harper
 

John's our golden boy. What do you expect?
Jared Harper
Athens, GA

--- In STMFC@..., "lnbill" <fgexbill@...> wrote:

I enjoyed looking at the new NYC modeling magazine. There were a few photos, including the portrait of our beloved John Golden, appeared to be posterized, a trick done in the old print days by turning a light on while the print is in the developer. I assume this was accidental and maybe some sort of electronic glitch.

Bill Welch


Re: Flat car model

Clark Propst
 

From Gene Green
M&StL - 100 50 ton, 50' cars, built 1931 GATC, retired 1977, 23001-23199 series, odd
numbers only.

These cars will be in my "M&StL cars YOU should model" Lisle clinic. I think I put an early version of the handout in the files? It should list some of these cars.
Clark Propst


Re: Flat car model

Bruce Smith
 

On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 7:36 PM, <cepropst@q.com> wrote:
I bought a Sunshine Rock Island spliced flat car, it has instructions
of
the other car - The one Chad is making. Photos info is on that sheet.
Don't
know if Jim Hayes has it on his site? I'm real busy right now. I'll
post the
info in a couple days. The models won't be ready for awhile anyway.

Clark Propst
From the flyer:

MoPac - 150 50 ton, 50' cars, built June 1942, Bethlehem. 100 cars in
8100-8199 series, 50 to St. Louis, Brownsville and Mexico subsidiary,
8350-8399 series

WP - 300 50 ton, 50' cars, built late 1942, AC&F

M&StL - 100 50 ton, 50' cars, built 1931?, 23001-23199 series, odd
numbers only

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Re: Flat car model

Jim Hayes
 

The flyer is available on my site. Go to Flyers by Road and scroll down to
RI.

Jim Hayes
Portland Oregon
www.sunshinekits.com

On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 7:36 PM, <cepropst@q.com> wrote:

**


I bought a Sunshine Rock Island spliced flat car, it has instructions of
the other car - The one Chad is making. Photos info is on that sheet. Don't
know if Jim Hayes has it on his site? I'm real busy right now. I'll post the
info in a couple days. The models won't be ready for awhile anyway.

Clark Propst



Re: Flat car model

Clark Propst
 

I bought a Sunshine Rock Island spliced flat car, it has instructions of the other car - The one Chad is making. Photos info is on that sheet. Don't know if Jim Hayes has it on his site? I'm real busy right now. I'll post the info in a couple days. The models won't be ready for awhile anyway.

Clark Propst


Re: B&O M-27 mod kit

Bob Weston
 

This is what I have. Thanks!
Bob Weston

--- In STMFC@..., Jim Hayes <jimhayes97225@...> wrote:

There was a Kit 58.7, Side sill reinforcements, patch panel overlays, large
B&O, Time Saver, Sentinel Service decals, $8. And there is a paragraph
mentioning these near the the end of the M-27 flyer.

Jim Hayes
Portland Oregon
www.sunshinekits.com


On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 3:15 AM, oandle <oandle@...> wrote:

**


Hi Guys!
I was going through my Sunshine B&O M-27 kits and found an envelope marked
B&O M-27 mod kit. There are no directions indicating what this kit is for.
Can someone please enlighten me? Thanks.
Bob Weston



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


looking down on modeling done years ago

ed_mines
 

--- In STMFC@..., Denny Anspach <danspach@...> wrote:
It is so very, very easy to sneer, look down, and disparage the efforts of modelers of years, decades ago. However, their completed work was most often -always?- the result of the modeler's skill and craftsmanship making do with parts and materials then at hand.....
Some of the models scratch built in the '50s are nothing short of phenominal. Some of the builders used metal from tin cans and made rivets with a nail. Or made their own strip wood.

Look at Gene Deimling's O scale Erie covered hopper built in the '70s.

Look at Bob Hundman's freight car models.

Ed Mines


New York Central online modeling magazine

Bill Welch
 

I enjoyed looking at the new NYC modeling magazine. There were a few photos, including the portrait of our beloved John Golden, appeared to be posterized, a trick done in the old print days by turning a light on while the print is in the developer. I assume this was accidental and maybe some sort of electronic glitch.

Bill Welch


Re: Flat car model

Clark Propst
 

I created a photo file named "Flat car project" the photos will appear...when a approved
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: Flat car model

Jack Burgess <jack@...>
 

<A few years ago Frank Hodina made a master for a 50' flat car that was
<owned by the M&StL, MP, and WP. [snip]

<These two pieces will be offered for sale at $15 + $5 postage. Chad
<would like a ballpark figure on how many he should make. It only took
<him a week to do the master so I would think he could have the model
<available for Lisle.

I can't use them but I know some WP modelers who might. When was the
prototype built?


Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com

94701 - 94720 of 197075