Date   

Re: Peel n stick

steve_wintner
 

On the NP flatcar I recently built, it came with both a peel and stick and a resin deck. I ended up using the resin deck - was happier with the appearance of painted "wood", in my opinion the peel and stick grain was too coarse.

But I don't think I would go so far as to scratchbuild a styrene replacement deck if a a peel and stick deck came with a kit...

steve

--- In STMFC@..., cepropst@... wrote:

Thanks Jerry and Bruce.
This particular model will have a thin resin top to attach the deck to. So the deck should have something solid to adhere to. I've only had 3 or 4 'squares' come off the 3 models I've done. I've looking to cobble up something that resembles that hand brake used on the MP and WP cars now. Photo in RP Cyc #10 page 50. Seems to be the only challenge to builting those cars. I was able to sand the top add the details (other than the hand brake) in less than an hour. These are a nice little project : )
Clark Propst


Have the photos of the extended deck car been approved yet?

--- In STMFC@..., Bruce Smith <smithbf@> wrote:

Clark,

When building steam era flat cars, I can go either way on the peel and stick decks. On the plus side, they usually stick really well and I've never had a problem with one coming off. On the negative side, the adhesive is open on the bottom where it does not contact the car and can collect dust and cat hair, etc. It can also make it more challenging to model damaged boards.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


On Sep 16, 2011, at 8:48 AM, Clark and Eileen wrote:

Chad is considering buying the flat car decks with a peel n stick backing. I think this is used often in laser kits, but I'm not familiar with the product.

Guess is for those with experience: Do you think it'll hold up sticking the wood flat car deck to the resin frame over time?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: Flat car project

jerryglow2
 

I think you need to lie and say they're good for UP. Bet that'll get instant approval. <VBG> Are they the same pics you posted on the M&StL list? I viewed them there this morning.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@..., "Clark and Eileen" <cepropst@...> wrote:

I've added two more photos to the photo section file that no one wants to approve. These two show the power hand brake conglomeration I came up with for the WP and MP cars. I used a piece of a Ajax gear box and a square of plastic. Because the hand wheel is dished I used the one off the Tichy spure with the inside re-enforcing circle cut out. Took four hand wheels before I figured out a technique. Another shows how I added sheet lead to bring the model's weigh up to 4 ozs without trucks, couplers or deck. That was the most rime consuming part of the task.
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Peel n stick

Bruce Smith
 

On Sep 16, 2011, at 12:04 PM, armprem2 wrote:

Easy fix Bruce,get rid of the cat <VBG>Armand Premo
<VBG> I'm trying! He's on life 9 I think...

Regards
Bruce Smith

----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Smith
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2011 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Peel n stick



Clark,

When building steam era flat cars, I can go either way on the peel and stick decks. On the plus side, they usually stick really well and I've never had a problem with one coming off. On the negative side, the adhesive is open on the bottom where it does not contact the car and can collect dust and cat hair, etc. It can also make it more challenging to model damaged boards.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

On Sep 16, 2011, at 8:48 AM, Clark and Eileen wrote:

Chad is considering buying the flat car decks with a peel n stick backing. I think this is used often in laser kits, but I'm not familiar with the product.

Guess is for those with experience: Do you think it'll hold up sticking the wood flat car deck to the resin frame over time?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: Flat car project

Clark Propst
 

I've added two more photos to the photo section file that no one wants to approve. These two show the power hand brake conglomeration I came up with for the WP and MP cars. I used a piece of a Ajax gear box and a square of plastic. Because the hand wheel is dished I used the one off the Tichy spure with the inside re-enforcing circle cut out. Took four hand wheels before I figured out a technique. Another shows how I added sheet lead to bring the model's weigh up to 4 ozs without trucks, couplers or deck. That was the most rime consuming part of the task.
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: Peel n stick

Armand Premo
 

Easy fix Bruce,get rid of the cat <VBG>Armand Premo

----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Smith
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2011 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Peel n stick



Clark,

When building steam era flat cars, I can go either way on the peel and stick decks. On the plus side, they usually stick really well and I've never had a problem with one coming off. On the negative side, the adhesive is open on the bottom where it does not contact the car and can collect dust and cat hair, etc. It can also make it more challenging to model damaged boards.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

On Sep 16, 2011, at 8:48 AM, Clark and Eileen wrote:

> Chad is considering buying the flat car decks with a peel n stick backing. I think this is used often in laser kits, but I'm not familiar with the product.
>
> Guess is for those with experience: Do you think it'll hold up sticking the wood flat car deck to the resin frame over time?
> Clark Propst
> Mason City Iowa



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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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new decals the past few weeks

jerryglow2
 

I've been adding a few new sets and listing some not previously listed.
Among them are sets for PRR X29, B&O M26, UP PS-0, ACY rebuilt boxcar,
and flatcars for MP and WP. As usual, they're available in all scales
and please keep inquiries OFF LIST.

--
Jerry Glow
The Villages FL
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals/


Re: New file uploaded to STMFC

np328
 

Yes, a third thanks and to repeat what Clark stated, thank you for going the extra mile.

I had found the a letter in NP files having to do with Duluth steel mill letter regarding car shortages era 1951 or so reading, (from NP traffic department) "As you know we look to the CB&Q, M&StL, CGW, and Omaha to supply us with open cars suitable to hauling ingots and other of your products from Duluth to Beloit area."

I had wondered about some of these cars and where I would get them. Nice when parts of the puzzle fall into place. Jim Dick – St. Paul

--- In STMFC@..., Mike Aufderheide <mononinmonon@...> wrote:
MON 3011 42’ GB Fixed ends, steel floor Steel
This car (on the "Need ID to a Model" page) is modeled by Sunshine 67.38. See:http://sunshinekits.com/sunimages/sun67f.pdf

Thank you for posting this list, very interesting.
Mike Aufderheide
From: "STMFC@..." <STMFC@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 11:55 PM
Subject: [STMFC] New file uploaded to STMFC

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the STMFC group.

File : /NYC Toledo Div. Consists/List of Cars-rev3.xls
Uploaded by : rdepennsyfan <pattirobpatti1@...>
Description :

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/files/NYC%20Toledo%20Div.%20Consists/List%20of%20Cars-rev3.xls

Regards,
rdepennsyfan <pattirobpatti1@...>


Re: L&HR NE caboose re-sheathing

Peter Ness
 

Hi Joe,
I will be using the JJL Erie caboose for sure when I get there. I have two NE cabooses, just need to learn when the L&HR were re-sheathed so I can do that one correctly. The RMC article is not clear when this happened. I could always model one of the couple that were no re-sheathed if I can't learn the answer...

Regards,
Peter

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Lofland" <jjlofland@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2011 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] L&HR NE caboose re-sheathing


Check out

Bethlehem Car Works and JJLModels for caboose kits that you could use.

Joe Lofland

On Fri, Sep 16, 2011 at 11:26 AM, Peter Ness <prness@...> wrote:

**


Hi,
Although I am modeling the New Haven Railroad, I want to run DL&W, LNE,
L&HR and Erie consists into Maybrook (only one train each, from staging for
interchange - and sorry, the Old & Weary was gone by '59).

I have the old RMC series of articles on the NE cabooses of the LNE& L&HR
and I've checked as many references on line to no avail, so I'm asking this
group if anyone can answer the following;

Were the L&HR NE cabooses (blt by Reading, etc) re-sheathed in plywood in
1959 or earlier. Later is obviously beyond the scope of this group and
doesn't matter to me in any case.

Also, while I'm at it, does any one know a source for the diamond tread
roofwalk in HO scale? I have some old cast metal Alloy Forms (I think)
material and I am thinking about using this to emboss 0.005" styrene sheet
unless there is a commercial product of which I'm not aware.

Thanks in advance,
Peter Ness






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Re: Combining paint types

Bob Sterner
 

Thanks, Pierre. I can imagine that xylene is tough on styrene. It also occurred to me after writing my post that a primer undercoat might be contributing to the problems I'm having. I have a little more mad chemist experimentation to do.

Bob Sterner
St. Paul, MN

--- In STMFC@..., "Pierre" <pierre.oliver@...> wrote:

Bob,
The only difference between Scalecoat I and II is the ratio of naptha to xylene. II has more naptha which prevents it crazing styrene.
So the caveats remain.
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@..., "Bob Sterner" <rwsterner@> wrote:

I'm playing around with some color combinations using paints of different types. To get a certain hue I dearly want to overspray a Tamiya lacquer over a Scalecoat undercoat. I know this doesn't work on Scalecoat II because it crazes. I haven't tried Scalecoat I. I'm just learning about advice never to apply lacquers over enamels or acrylics. For example:

http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/paint.htm

Does anyone here know which type (lacquer, enamel or acrylic) are Scalecoat I and Scalecoat II? I know these use lacquer thinner but I'm not sure if that means they are truly lacquers.

Bob Sterner
St. Paul, MN


Re: L&HR NE caboose re-sheathing

Joseph Lofland
 

Check out

Bethlehem Car Works and JJLModels for caboose kits that you could use.

Joe Lofland

On Fri, Sep 16, 2011 at 11:26 AM, Peter Ness <prness@...> wrote:

**


Hi,
Although I am modeling the New Haven Railroad, I want to run DL&W, LNE,
L&HR and Erie consists into Maybrook (only one train each, from staging for
interchange - and sorry, the Old & Weary was gone by '59).

I have the old RMC series of articles on the NE cabooses of the LNE& L&HR
and I've checked as many references on line to no avail, so I'm asking this
group if anyone can answer the following;

Were the L&HR NE cabooses (blt by Reading, etc) re-sheathed in plywood in
1959 or earlier. Later is obviously beyond the scope of this group and
doesn't matter to me in any case.

Also, while I'm at it, does any one know a source for the diamond tread
roofwalk in HO scale? I have some old cast metal Alloy Forms (I think)
material and I am thinking about using this to emboss 0.005" styrene sheet
unless there is a commercial product of which I'm not aware.

Thanks in advance,
Peter Ness



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Combining paint types

Pierre <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Bob,
The only difference between Scalecoat I and II is the ratio of naptha to xylene. II has more naptha which prevents it crazing styrene.
So the caveats remain.
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@..., "Bob Sterner" <rwsterner@...> wrote:

I'm playing around with some color combinations using paints of different types. To get a certain hue I dearly want to overspray a Tamiya lacquer over a Scalecoat undercoat. I know this doesn't work on Scalecoat II because it crazes. I haven't tried Scalecoat I. I'm just learning about advice never to apply lacquers over enamels or acrylics. For example:

http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/paint.htm

Does anyone here know which type (lacquer, enamel or acrylic) are Scalecoat I and Scalecoat II? I know these use lacquer thinner but I'm not sure if that means they are truly lacquers.

Bob Sterner
St. Paul, MN


Re: Peel n stick

Clark Propst
 

Thanks Jerry and Bruce.
This particular model will have a thin resin top to attach the deck to. So the deck should have something solid to adhere to. I've only had 3 or 4 'squares' come off the 3 models I've done. I've looking to cobble up something that resembles that hand brake used on the MP and WP cars now. Photo in RP Cyc #10 page 50. Seems to be the only challenge to builting those cars. I was able to sand the top add the details (other than the hand brake) in less than an hour. These are a nice little project : )
Clark Propst


Have the photos of the extended deck car been approved yet?

--- In STMFC@..., Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:

Clark,

When building steam era flat cars, I can go either way on the peel and stick decks. On the plus side, they usually stick really well and I've never had a problem with one coming off. On the negative side, the adhesive is open on the bottom where it does not contact the car and can collect dust and cat hair, etc. It can also make it more challenging to model damaged boards.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


On Sep 16, 2011, at 8:48 AM, Clark and Eileen wrote:

Chad is considering buying the flat car decks with a peel n stick backing. I think this is used often in laser kits, but I'm not familiar with the product.

Guess is for those with experience: Do you think it'll hold up sticking the wood flat car deck to the resin frame over time?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


L&HR NE caboose re-sheathing

Peter Ness
 

Hi,
Although I am modeling the New Haven Railroad, I want to run DL&W, LNE, L&HR and Erie consists into Maybrook (only one train each, from staging for interchange - and sorry, the Old & Weary was gone by '59).

I have the old RMC series of articles on the NE cabooses of the LNE& L&HR and I've checked as many references on line to no avail, so I'm asking this group if anyone can answer the following;

Were the L&HR NE cabooses (blt by Reading, etc) re-sheathed in plywood in 1959 or earlier. Later is obviously beyond the scope of this group and doesn't matter to me in any case.

Also, while I'm at it, does any one know a source for the diamond tread roofwalk in HO scale? I have some old cast metal Alloy Forms (I think) material and I am thinking about using this to emboss 0.005" styrene sheet unless there is a commercial product of which I'm not aware.

Thanks in advance,
Peter Ness


Re: Peel n stick

Bruce Smith
 

Clark,

When building steam era flat cars, I can go either way on the peel and stick decks. On the plus side, they usually stick really well and I've never had a problem with one coming off. On the negative side, the adhesive is open on the bottom where it does not contact the car and can collect dust and cat hair, etc. It can also make it more challenging to model damaged boards.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

On Sep 16, 2011, at 8:48 AM, Clark and Eileen wrote:

Chad is considering buying the flat car decks with a peel n stick backing. I think this is used often in laser kits, but I'm not familiar with the product.

Guess is for those with experience: Do you think it'll hold up sticking the wood flat car deck to the resin frame over time?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Combining paint types

Bob Sterner
 

I'm playing around with some color combinations using paints of different types. To get a certain hue I dearly want to overspray a Tamiya lacquer over a Scalecoat undercoat. I know this doesn't work on Scalecoat II because it crazes. I haven't tried Scalecoat I. I'm just learning about advice never to apply lacquers over enamels or acrylics. For example:

http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/paint.htm

Does anyone here know which type (lacquer, enamel or acrylic) are Scalecoat I and Scalecoat II? I know these use lacquer thinner but I'm not sure if that means they are truly lacquers.

Bob Sterner
St. Paul, MN


Re: X29/ARA Types

Benjamin Hom
 

Bill Darnaby wrote:
"Rather than use Sunshine parts, unless that is your only option, use the
Speedwitch M-26D/E kit which is more accurate and the instructions have better
UF photos (of the model)."

I concur with Bill Darnaby.  There are variations between different applications
of the Duryea cushion underframe, so going with a kit specifically modeling the
M-26D/E is your best bet.


Ben Hom


Re: Peel n stick

jerryglow2
 

After giving up trying to thin the too thick deck on my Intermountain AAR 70 ton flatcar, I wrote for a replacement and the peal and stick worked fine.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@..., "Clark and Eileen" <cepropst@...> wrote:

Chad is considering buying the flat car decks with a peel n stick backing. I think this is used often in laser kits, but I'm not familiar with the product.

Guess is for those with experience: Do you think it'll hold up sticking the wood flat car deck to the resin frame over time?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: New file uploaded to STMFC

Clark Propst
 

Great spread sheet. Thanks for going the extra mile. The two M&StL stock cars were leased from General American. They are not P2K Mathers cars.
Clark Propst


Peel n stick

Clark Propst
 

Chad is considering buying the flat car decks with a peel n stick backing. I think this is used often in laser kits, but I'm not familiar with the product.

Guess is for those with experience: Do you think it'll hold up sticking the wood flat car deck to the resin frame over time?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: New file uploaded to STMFC

Michael Aufderheide
 

MON 3011 42’ GB Fixed ends, steel floor Steel
 
This car (on the "Need ID to a Model" page) is modeled by Sunshine 67.38.  See:
 
http://sunshinekits.com/sunimages/sun67f.pdf
 
Thank you for posting this list, very interesting.
 
Mike Aufderheide


From: "STMFC@..." <STMFC@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 11:55 PM
Subject: [STMFC] New file uploaded to STMFC


 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the STMFC
group.

File : /NYC Toledo Div. Consists/List of Cars-rev3.xls
Uploaded by : rdepennsyfan <pattirobpatti1@...>
Description :

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/files/NYC%20Toledo%20Div.%20Consists/List%20of%20Cars-rev3.xls

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/web/index.html
Regards,

rdepennsyfan <pattirobpatti1@...>

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