Date   

Re: Spinoffs

jerryglow2
 

Aren't those for express service cars only? I've got the herald and some lettering that could be done in yellow but not "Route of the Rockets" Does Steve Hile have it - he does a lot of RI stuff

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@..., Rich C <rhcdmc@...> wrote:

Rock Island Color Guide to Freight & Passenger Equipment by Hile, Hickcox & Miller
Rich Christie



  > --- In STMFC@..., Rich C <rhcdmc@> wrote:

Speaking of spinoffs, etc. Do you still make the "Hide Loading Only" decals? Another future need for some Rock Island cars. I know they had a yellow background with black lettering. Found some decent pics in my Rock Island color guide.
 
Rich


Re: Spinoffs

 

Rock Island Color Guide to Freight & Passenger Equipment by Hile, Hickcox & Miller
Rich Christie


________________________________
From: "jerryglow@..." <jerryglow@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Sunday, October 2, 2011 7:56 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Spinoffs


 
Yes on the hide loading decals (I don't throw nothing away <g>)

What RI Color Guide? I have some but not all

Jerry Glow
The Villages, FL
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals/

--- In STMFC@..., Rich C <rhcdmc@...> wrote:

Speaking of spinoffs, etc. Do you still make the "Hide Loading Only" decals? Another future need for some Rock Island cars. I know they had a yellow background with black lettering. Found some decent pics in my Rock Island color guide.
 
Rich


________________________________
From: "jerryglow@..." <jerryglow@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Saturday, October 1, 2011 8:29 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Spinoffs


 
Thanks Clark. Not to encourage too many "suggestions" but this is an example of something I did at the request of a customer and am offering a set of 4 with any new order. Just mention you saw it here. Sorry HO only.
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/samples/placard.jpg

Jerry Glow
The Villages FL
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals/

--- In STMFC@..., cepropst@ wrote:

I gotta say Jerry is the best thing that's happened to this hobby in awhile. Show him a photo and you'll have decals in days. Maybe just the one set just for you. And he's in the USA.

Thanks Jerry!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Modeling techniques - Resin casting - suggestions for reading

Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
 

You should consider buying supplies directly from the manufacturer to get a
fresher product. These chemicals have a limited shelf life and I have seen
the same bottles sitting on hobby shop shelves for years.



KL



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Stephan
Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2011 6:38 AM

The resin and rubber are from a local hobby shop, which in turn gets them
from www.perfect-scale.com - this will not help you much unless you speak
German. And even then the website is short of info.


Re: Spinoffs

Benjamin Hom
 

Jerry Glow asked:
"What RI Color Guide? I have some but not all."

http://www.morningsunbooks.com/midwestcat5.html#Rock%20Island%20Color%20Guide


Ben Hom


Re: Spinoffs

jerryglow2
 

They're included in some of my NYC sets but not offered separately. If you ask nicely <g> I'll make sure they're on any NYC set ordered.

Jerry Glow
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals/

--- In STMFC@..., "lnbill" <fgexbill@...> wrote:

Sorry to pile on but those pesky New York Central repaint stencils would be nice too!

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., Rich C <rhcdmc@> wrote:

Speaking of spinoffs, etc. Do you still make the "Hide Loading Only" decals? Another future need for some Rock Island cars. I know they had a yellow background with black lettering. Found some decent pics in my Rock Island color guide.
 
Rich


________________________________
From: "jerryglow@" <jerryglow@>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Saturday, October 1, 2011 8:29 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Spinoffs


 
Thanks Clark. Not to encourage too many "suggestions" but this is an example of something I did at the request of a customer and am offering a set of 4 with any new order. Just mention you saw it here. Sorry HO only.
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/samples/placard.jpg

Jerry Glow
The Villages FL
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals/

--- In STMFC@..., cepropst@ wrote:

I gotta say Jerry is the best thing that's happened to this hobby in awhile. Show him a photo and you'll have decals in days. Maybe just the one set just for you. And he's in the USA.

Thanks Jerry!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Spinoffs

jerryglow2
 

Yes on the hide loading decals (I don't throw nothing away <g>)

What RI Color Guide? I have some but not all

Jerry Glow
The Villages, FL
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals/

--- In STMFC@..., Rich C <rhcdmc@...> wrote:

Speaking of spinoffs, etc. Do you still make the "Hide Loading Only" decals? Another future need for some Rock Island cars. I know they had a yellow background with black lettering. Found some decent pics in my Rock Island color guide.
 
Rich


________________________________
From: "jerryglow@..." <jerryglow@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Saturday, October 1, 2011 8:29 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Spinoffs


 
Thanks Clark. Not to encourage too many "suggestions" but this is an example of something I did at the request of a customer and am offering a set of 4 with any new order. Just mention you saw it here. Sorry HO only.
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/samples/placard.jpg

Jerry Glow
The Villages FL
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals/

--- In STMFC@..., cepropst@ wrote:

I gotta say Jerry is the best thing that's happened to this hobby in awhile. Show him a photo and you'll have decals in days. Maybe just the one set just for you. And he's in the USA.

Thanks Jerry!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Spinoffs

Bill Welch
 

Sorry to pile on but those pesky New York Central repaint stencils would be nice too!

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., Rich C <rhcdmc@...> wrote:

Speaking of spinoffs, etc. Do you still make the "Hide Loading Only" decals? Another future need for some Rock Island cars. I know they had a yellow background with black lettering. Found some decent pics in my Rock Island color guide.
 
Rich


________________________________
From: "jerryglow@..." <jerryglow@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Saturday, October 1, 2011 8:29 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Spinoffs


 
Thanks Clark. Not to encourage too many "suggestions" but this is an example of something I did at the request of a customer and am offering a set of 4 with any new order. Just mention you saw it here. Sorry HO only.
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/samples/placard.jpg

Jerry Glow
The Villages FL
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals/

--- In STMFC@..., cepropst@ wrote:

I gotta say Jerry is the best thing that's happened to this hobby in awhile. Show him a photo and you'll have decals in days. Maybe just the one set just for you. And he's in the USA.

Thanks Jerry!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Spinoffs

 

Speaking of spinoffs, etc. Do you still make the "Hide Loading Only" decals? Another future need for some Rock Island cars. I know they had a yellow background with black lettering. Found some decent pics in my Rock Island color guide.
 
Rich


________________________________
From: "jerryglow@..." <jerryglow@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Saturday, October 1, 2011 8:29 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Spinoffs


 
Thanks Clark. Not to encourage too many "suggestions" but this is an example of something I did at the request of a customer and am offering a set of 4 with any new order. Just mention you saw it here. Sorry HO only.
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/samples/placard.jpg

Jerry Glow
The Villages FL
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals/

--- In STMFC@..., cepropst@... wrote:

I gotta say Jerry is the best thing that's happened to this hobby in awhile. Show him a photo and you'll have decals in days. Maybe just the one set just for you. And he's in the USA.

Thanks Jerry!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Modeling techniques - Resin casting - suggestions for reading

steve_wintner
 

Well thats more like it !

Ok, so after some thinking, I went and re-worked my mold, and changed some other things. Now I am getting vaguely tolerable parts, so I can begin to describe things one problem at a time.

The resin and rubber are from a local hobby shop, which in turn gets them from www.perfect-scale.com - this will not help you much unless you speak German. And even then the website is short of info.

They are both 50:50 by weight mixes, the RTV is green and the resin is a nice grey - both have a 5 minute working time. The resin is quite fluid, and bubbles havent been horrible. I am not sure if it is an epoxy resin or what. I have been using a mechanical kitchen scale, and a digital kitchen scale is on the way, so my mixes should be fairly accurate.

Flat molds, thin parts. I have managed to limit the bubbles by putting my finished side down - so the bubbles that do occur are on the back side of the flat parts.

Nonetheless, filling has not been perfect, so the talc powder and Krylon discussion has given me some ideas to try.

I dont have a vacuum chamber of any type, so discussion of that is interesting but only in a "for my next step" kind of way.

I am using a silicon coated paper between my backing plate (glass) and my resin now - the resin seems to like to stick to the glass quite nicely, and does not seem to care of there is some model release vaseline present or not. ??? but the coated paper seems to work well enough.

And I am using a bed of plaster under the RTV to provide a nice, stable / level base - Earl Hackett has an article in the files where he suggest that. Seems to work.

On that basis - any further tips regarding de-bubbling ?

What resin should I be using ? Even slower setting should help with the bubbles, yes ? The current resin says it can be de-molded in 90 minutes, but I find it is still soft at 90 minutes so have been waiting more like 4 hours...

thanks (and thanks for the earlier comments)
steve


--- In STMFC@..., "Stephan" <steve_wintner@> wrote:

Dennis,

If only I could describe my many problems in just a few words ...

;-)
You gotta tell us more, Steve... What resin, what rubber, what's the problem. It is possible to mold usable simple parts using five minute epoxy in molds made of silicone bathtub caulk... I described that in my "Trevor Depot" article in RMC back in the eighties. The key is slow setting materials. Everybody wants to make parts RIGHT NOW, and the craft suppliers sell fast setting resins to provide that instant gratification. I wonder if anyone realizes that when I was in production, I filled a run of molds once every 24 hours... the key was, I ran enough molds at once to make it worthwhile.

I'll defer to Tom on the more recent technical aspects of production molding. Never tried any pressure casting, but did try some plug molding of 3D parts (think complete carbodies) back in the eighties; made the judgment that it was feasible, but the costs of making multiple molds was more than the market would bear. If I would have had access to the shop I have now, perhaps things would have been different, but then again, if I would have had access to the shop I have now, I would have turned to injection molding, as indeed I did. Life is just a continuum of learning; nothing says you have to take the same lessons away that I did.

If I have Tom's permission to post his clinic notes from long ago, I will see if I can find them; I posted them once, and was severely chastised for doing so (not by Tom). I thought the theory was useful, even if the products have changed.

Let us know what your most compelling problem is, Steve, we'll start there and work it out.

Dennis


Re: Storzek CN 1917 Boxcar

steve_wintner
 

--- In STMFC@..., Ian Cranstone <lamontc@...> wrote:

On 11-Feb-08, at 1:26 PM, Dave Schroedle wrote:
Group I'm in need of some clarification on what AAR type truck should
be used for the later version. From my reading of the instructions the
number series of the reconverted auto cars is 514,000/514,499 which
where still in service in 1955. This is the time frame I would like to
model this car for.
Dave, I have attached a photo of CN 514297 taken at Port Ellice, B.C.
at an unknown date (but you will notice that the last reweigh date is
in August 1955). Obviously the photo will be stripped from the group
posting, which will not help identify the kind of cast sideframe
truck used.

Ian Cranstone
Osgoode, Ontario, Canada
lamontc@...
http://freightcars.nakina.net
http://siberians.nakina.net

Hey Guys,

I am working on Dennis' old CN boxcar kit - want to build it in the later, post AB conversion configuration.

Can anyone tell me where the AB reservoir was placed - on the side of the brake cylinder, or the other side ?

And can anyone tell me what trucks were used (Ian, could you perhaps send me the photo too?)

My searches - internet and group - have not turned up much.

Thanks !
Stephan


Re: B&O Wagontop Paintscheme timeline

Benjamin Hom
 

Andy Harman asked:
"Ok, I see that the large lettering on the right side is 62-66. The cars I
have are from the current run with the large lettering on the left side.
Older or newer? Also a lot of the pics I'm finding of that scheme have the
larger capitol herald, the FVM has the simplified smaller herald. I don't
suppose FVM picked their car numbers from photos of cars in that precise
paint scheme..."

This resource from Chris Barkan might help:
http://borhs.org/Logos/CBarkan/BOBoxcarStenciling1920-60s.pdf


Ben Hom


Re: B&O Wagontop Paintscheme timeline

Bernd Schroeder
 

Andy,

according to the photos in the B&O color guide and my own harddrive photo collection, the big B&O on the left side was applied between 56 and 62 (so still ok for THIS list) - but still in considerable use until the early 70ies


Bernd

----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Harman" <gsgondola@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2011 8:34 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] B&O Wagontop Paintscheme timeline


At 09:00 AM 10/1/2011 -0400, you wrote:
They are on the flyer for the second release -- Sept announcements.
Ok, I see that the large lettering on the right side is 62-66. The cars I
have are from the current run with the large lettering on the left side.
Older or newer?


Re: B&O Wagontop Paintscheme timeline

Andy Harman
 

At 09:00 AM 10/1/2011 -0400, you wrote:
They are on the flyer for the second release -- Sept announcements.
Ok, I see that the large lettering on the right side is 62-66. The cars I
have are from the current run with the large lettering on the left side.
Older or newer? Also a lot of the pics I'm finding of that scheme have the
larger capitol herald, the FVM has the simplified smaller herald. I don't
suppose FVM picked their car numbers from photos of cars in that precise
paint scheme...

Andy


Re: FS: FVM B&O M53 boxcars HO & N

Andy Harman
 

At 11:15 PM 10/1/2011 -0000, you wrote:
Max--I think this is what Andy wrote about:

http://www.proto87.com/model-railroad-suspension-tutorial.html
Yep. I use them a lot more than I thought I would. I originally got them
to use on Branchline passenger cars, but I have used them on quite a few
freight cars as well. They are about .250" OD, .120 or .125" ID. They are
.005" thick and the rib etched onto them adds another .005" so they will
raise the car .010"

Many freight car bolsters have a boss that is bigger around than the ID of
the washer, or a 2-stage boss. This has to be removed and then squared up.
So sometimes a little material is removed making up for the thickness of
the washer - assuming you don't need the thickness to being the car up to
proper height. I use a couple drops of CP to secure the washers with the
rib parallel to the rails at one end and perpendicular at the other. You
end up with an effective 3-point suspension. One truck has good pitch, but
little roll motion. The other has good roll but little pitch. So the car
will track well on uneven track, but doesn't wobble.

The M53 out of the box would have derailed on straight track... the trucks
were too tight to even swivel freely, and even after loosening them they
were grinding against the rivets on the bolster. That combined with the
coupler height issue, made the pivot washer a perfect solution and the
Kadee washer added the necessary height. The washers are glued in a stack,
because the pivot washers need to be locked into their orientation for the
3-point suspension to work.

Andy


Re: FVM Wagontop boxcar

Andy Harman
 

At 05:29 PM 10/1/2011 -0700, you wrote:
My models coupler height was right on according to the gages I use.
According to the scale I use they weighed about 3.8 ounces and I added 1/2
ounce to each car.
Also the trip pins on the couplers were low
The trip pins were low on mine as well, which I attribute to the couplers
being low. I use a Kadee 205 gauge - I have one with a #5 and one with a
#58 coupler. The FVM car was about .025" low to the one with the #5
coupler. After replacing them with 58s, and raising the trucks with the
washers, it's dead on.

Andy


P&LE USRA panel side rebuild

Tim O'Connor
 

Here's an unusual photo reference (now possible thanks to the ever
expanding web)... Go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6EG3QgInc8
and skip forward to 11:11 and stop.

You'll see a clear (but only partial) shot of P&LE 37673 in 1952,
in clean paint, dumping limestone or ballast. It's from series
P&LE 37000-38418, Lot 651-H, rebuilt in 1937.

Tim O'Connor


Re: Boats on Flats

Bruce Smith
 

"gary laakso" <vasa0vasa@...> 10/01/11 2:09 PM >>>
<snip>
Along those lines, there is a picture of 2 dome tanks cars with 9906
gallon capacity that were selected by the military for >shipment
overseas on page 122 of "America's Fighting Railroads". I wonder if
that picture inspired OMI's model of the >10,000 gallon 2 done cars? I
am surprised they did not become a war surplus item for the oil industry
for US use.

Gary,

We've talked about these (and the export locos) before. The tank cars
were single compartment cars, even thought they had 2 domes (only one
had a manway!). The dome provided the required expansion space within
european clearances. There is little evidence of these cars being used
post WWII on US rails beyond some claims of one or two of these cars
being seen somewhere in the weeds years ago on some C&O (IIRC) trackage.
Bottom line is that the railroads of europe were so badly damaged that
there were no "surplus" cars to come home.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


FVM Wagontop boxcar

Paul Catapano
 

My models coupler height was right on according to the gages I use. According to the scale I use they weighed about 3.8 ounces and I added 1/2 ounce to each car.
Also the trip pins on the couplers were low, (I do not use magnets but use skewers
and use the trip pins as a handle) and I adjusted them up a bit.
Otherwise the cars were "good enough" for me.

Paul Catapano


Re: FS: FVM B&O M53 boxcars HO & N

pennsylvania1954
 

Max--I think this is what Andy wrote about:

http://www.proto87.com/model-railroad-suspension-tutorial.html

Steve Hoxie
Pensacola FL

--- In STMFC@..., "Kathe Robin" <kathe@...> wrote:

Andy:

What is a Reichert pivot washer and where do you get them?

Thanks,

Max


Boats on Flats

gary laakso
 

A slight variation in this theme, Landing Ship Tanks were modified with rails inside to haul rolling stock and locomotives from France to the Normandy beaches where track had been laid to the water's edge. Once underway, 22 European style freight cars could be unloaded in 21 minutes. Steam locomotives were welded to the rails of the LST's for the journey across the English Channel. In the 90 days following the invasion, 1,500 locomotives and 20,000 railcars were delivered to France.

I assume all the locomotives and rolling stock were made in the US, though the article inthe Oct-Nov Strategy and Tactics does not mention it.

Along those lines, there is a picture of 2 dome tanks cars with 9906 gallon capacity that were selected by the military for shipment overseas on page 122 of "America's Fighting Railroads". I wonder if that picture inspired OMI's model of the 10,000 gallon 2 done cars? I am surprised they did not become a war surplus item for the oil industry for US use.

gary laakso
south of Mike Brock
vasa0vasa@...

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