Date   

Re: C&WI H&B Gondola

tedander2000
 

Please contact us for possible H&B drawings in the Pullman Library collection, and we can check to see if those details that you requested are on any of the drawings. It cost us a lot to make the collection available, but you would be charged the usual nominal drawing fee if you wish a copy of the needed info. It would help to have the date of manufacture and any order information that you might have to make sure that we are looking for the correct car.
Sincerely, IRM Pullman Library curator

--- In STMFC@..., "behillman" <chris_hillman@...> wrote:

I just posted some photos of my progress on an HO, C&WI, Haskell & Barker, wood, side-dump gondola, in the photo-file:

Haskell & Barker Wood Side-Dump Gondolas

This started as a resin, Funaro & Camerlengo, Rutland kit. I am building it as per C&WI car #1185, at the Illinois RR museum.

I scribed and wood-grained the inner door surfaces and added the vertical metal-straps and Archer rivets, and scratchbuilt the car-ends.

The wooden, queen-post supports were replaced with steel I-beams and the AB brake parts had a different than "normal" layout.

Still a lot of detail to add. Does anyone have any close-up pix of these C&WI cars? I have only found distant shots of them in service but have several pix of the IRR museum car. (In poor shape.) I need to determine the car lettering better.

Paul Hillman


Re: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Chad Boas
 

I used it on the sides of my Wabash buisness car #400. I used evergreen metal siding as the base and used a blunt burnishing tool to push it into the cracks. Gives it a good fluted siding look. I have brought this car to Naperville a few times.
Chad Boas

--- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


I only wish we could get .003 sheet, in BLACK styrene. :-)

But I am a huge fan of Evergreen including the .005 sheet.

Ever use aluminum foil for parts? I made some door stops for
a stock car from HVAC 'sticky' aluminum foil. I didn't have
to glue the base to the car, just used the stick-um that came
with it. They've never failed, and the car is over 10 yrs old.
One nice thing about the foil is it that it can be cut very
precisely with scissors, or a paper cutter.

Tim O'Connor


Re: Santa Fe rebuild?

brianleppert@att.net
 

How about D&RGW? The ends, fishbelly underframe and Vulcan trucks would be a match.

Brian Leppert
Carson City, NV

--- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


I'm guessing this car may have originally belonged to the Santa Fe?
Is that correct? Thanks!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140664240482

Tim O'Connor


Re: Santa Fe rebuild?

Richard Hendrickson
 

On Dec 22, 2011, at 8:35 PM, Tim O'Connor wrote:


I'm guessing this car may have originally belonged to the Santa Fe?
Is that correct? Thanks!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140664240482

Definitely not a Santa Fe car, Tim. Several midwestern RRs had cars
with extended height roofs, originally for auto body service, CB&Q,
MILW, and RI among them. FB underframe, '20s style Dreadnaught ends,
and inset at the corner where the ends meet the sides suggest that
this car was rebuilt with steel sheathed sides from what was
originally a single sheathed car. Someone on the list whose focus is
later in the '50s will doubtless be able to identify it.

Richard Hendrickson


Santa Fe rebuild?

Tim O'Connor
 

I'm guessing this car may have originally belonged to the Santa Fe?
Is that correct? Thanks!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140664240482

Tim O'Connor


Re: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Bill Welch
 

Todd:

While I think it could be burnished successfully to show the rivets on the surface, I would think whatever adhiseve is used would spoil the look. I would think multiple layers of clear decal film might work better. I am thinking of trying multiple layers of decal film to model the repairs made to FGE's ex-R7 reefer's diagonal and vertical bracing albeit, before I paint them.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., Todd Horton <toddchorton@...> wrote:

Has anyone tred to use this for patch panels on X29's? Sound like if this is available in clear then you  might be able to "fix" an early decorated Red Caboose model without repainting.  Todd Horton

From: Andy Carlson <midcentury@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] In praise of 0.005 styrene


 
Jack Spencer gets great results with varying thicknesses of Mylar. .003" -.006"
sheets are commonly used by him.

Myself, I like using the RC item self-adhesive "Monocote Trim", not to be
confused with heat-shrinking Monokote. The trim is .003" plastic film with a
peel-off paper backing, and is very good at taking rivet impressions. Comes in
almost any color imagined, except light gray was not available when I made my
last purchase-I settled for white.

I have had excellent results bonding .005" styrene to styrene by applying small
amounts of Testors solvent glue to the area of the field with which you intend
to place the .005" overlay. Wait for the solvent to flash off, then place your
thin .005" plastic piece in place. The amount of residual solvent makes an
excellent bond. Doesn't fall off, even when used for patterns and removed from
the mold.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

________________________________
From: Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thu, December 22, 2011 10:52:44 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] In praise of 0.005 styrene

I only wish we could get .003 sheet, in BLACK styrene. :-)

But I am a huge fan of Evergreen including the .005 sheet.

Ever use aluminum foil for parts? I made some door stops for
a stock car from HVAC 'sticky' aluminum foil. I didn't have
to glue the base to the car, just used the stick-um that came
with it. They've never failed, and the car is over 10 yrs old.
One nice thing about the foil is it that it can be cut very
precisely with scissors, or a paper cutter.

Tim O'Connor

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Todd Horton
 

Has anyone tred to use this for patch panels on X29's? Sound like if this is available in clear then you  might be able to "fix" an early decorated Red Caboose model without repainting.  Todd Horton

From: Andy Carlson <midcentury@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] In praise of 0.005 styrene


 
Jack Spencer gets great results with varying thicknesses of Mylar. .003" -.006"
sheets are commonly used by him.

Myself, I like using the RC item self-adhesive "Monocote Trim", not to be
confused with heat-shrinking Monokote. The trim is .003" plastic film with a
peel-off paper backing, and is very good at taking rivet impressions. Comes in
almost any color imagined, except light gray was not available when I made my
last purchase-I settled for white.

I have had excellent results bonding .005" styrene to styrene by applying small
amounts of Testors solvent glue to the area of the field with which you intend
to place the .005" overlay. Wait for the solvent to flash off, then place your
thin .005" plastic piece in place. The amount of residual solvent makes an
excellent bond. Doesn't fall off, even when used for patterns and removed from
the mold.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

________________________________
From: Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thu, December 22, 2011 10:52:44 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] In praise of 0.005 styrene

I only wish we could get .003 sheet, in BLACK styrene. :-)

But I am a huge fan of Evergreen including the .005 sheet.

Ever use aluminum foil for parts? I made some door stops for
a stock car from HVAC 'sticky' aluminum foil. I didn't have
to glue the base to the car, just used the stick-um that came
with it. They've never failed, and the car is over 10 yrs old.
One nice thing about the foil is it that it can be cut very
precisely with scissors, or a paper cutter.

Tim O'Connor






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Butterdish cars

Don Burn
 

Kevin,

I believe the March 1986 issue of RMC has plans for the car.

Don Burn

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Kevin Sprayberry
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 6:52 PM
To: STMFC list
Subject: [STMFC] Butterdish cars

Does anyone have a butter dish milk car that they could measure for me?  I
want to do it 1/8th.  I saw an OMI O scale on ebay but missed it.
 
-Kevin

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Butterdish cars

csxt5555
 

Does anyone have a butter dish milk car that they could measure for me?  I want to do it 1/8th.  I saw an OMI O scale on ebay but missed it.
 
-Kevin


Re: NYC freight car colors for 1951

anthony wagner
 

NYC open top cars were painted black prior to the end of 1943. Thereafter they
were painted red, without a black background for the oval logo. However black
paint could still be used after that date until the supplies on hand were
exhausted at shops that were doing the repaints. As time elapsed more older cars
were repainted red after undergoing repairs and, in conjunction with the
purchase of new cars after the war, the gondola and hopper fleet gradually
shifted from all black to mostly red though there were probably at least a few
older cars that had been repainted black just before the change to red that went
to scrap in the mid-fifties without being repainted. I'd guess that by 1951 the
41'6'' gons were mostly red with maybe as many as a quarter of them still black.
Tony Wagner


________________________________
From: Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thu, December 22, 2011 11:18:51 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] NYC freight car colors for 1951


Fenton Wells asked:
"I am getting ready to assemble a few of the F&C kits for the NYC 40 gon. F&C
box

shows them as boxcar red, but I've seen pictures of them in balck. Which color
is correct for a 1951 era paint scheme? Any NYC experts out there that can offer


some good advice?"

Courtesy of Terry Link:
http://www.canadasouthern.com/caso/NYC-MODELS-FREIGHT.htm
Scroll 1/3 of the way down the page.

Ben Hom



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Andy Carlson
 

Jack Spencer gets great results with varying thicknesses of Mylar. .003" -.006"
sheets are commonly used by him.

Myself, I like using the RC item self-adhesive "Monocote Trim", not to be
confused with heat-shrinking Monokote. The trim is .003" plastic film with a
peel-off paper backing, and is very good at taking rivet impressions. Comes in
almost any color imagined, except light gray was not available when I made my
last purchase-I settled for white.


I have had excellent results bonding .005" styrene to styrene by applying small
amounts of Testors solvent glue to the area of the field with which you intend
to place the .005" overlay. Wait for the solvent to flash off, then place your
thin .005" plastic piece in place. The amount of residual solvent makes an
excellent bond. Doesn't fall off, even when used for patterns and removed from
the mold.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA




________________________________
From: Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thu, December 22, 2011 10:52:44 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] In praise of 0.005 styrene



I only wish we could get .003 sheet, in BLACK styrene. :-)

But I am a huge fan of Evergreen including the .005 sheet.

Ever use aluminum foil for parts? I made some door stops for
a stock car from HVAC 'sticky' aluminum foil. I didn't have
to glue the base to the car, just used the stick-um that came
with it. They've never failed, and the car is over 10 yrs old.
One nice thing about the foil is it that it can be cut very
precisely with scissors, or a paper cutter.

Tim O'Connor


Re: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Tim O'Connor
 

Jeff

It's definitely thicker than "heavy duty" kitchen foil, but I've
never tried to measure the thickness. I'm sure it is much less than
.005. I have some soft formable foil (like the kind that came with
the Sunshine Greenville gondola kit to form the ends) and that also
seems thicker than the HVAC foil.

Tim

I haven't tried it on models, but I have a friend who uses HVAC foil tape to seal up gaps in the benchwork (e.g. between pieces of plywood) before adding ground cover.

How thick is the foil? I don't have any on-hand to measure.

Regards,

-Jeff


Re: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Aley, Jeff A
 

I haven't tried it on models, but I have a friend who uses HVAC foil tape to seal up gaps in the benchwork (e.g. between pieces of plywood) before adding ground cover.

How thick is the foil? I don't have any on-hand to measure.

Regards,

-Jeff


From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 10:53 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] In praise of 0.005 styrene



I only wish we could get .003 sheet, in BLACK styrene. :-)

But I am a huge fan of Evergreen including the .005 sheet.

Ever use aluminum foil for parts? I made some door stops for
a stock car from HVAC 'sticky' aluminum foil. I didn't have
to glue the base to the car, just used the stick-um that came
with it. They've never failed, and the car is over 10 yrs old.
One nice thing about the foil is it that it can be cut very
precisely with scissors, or a paper cutter.

Tim O'Connor


Re: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Tim O'Connor
 

I only wish we could get .003 sheet, in BLACK styrene. :-)

But I am a huge fan of Evergreen including the .005 sheet.

Ever use aluminum foil for parts? I made some door stops for
a stock car from HVAC 'sticky' aluminum foil. I didn't have
to glue the base to the car, just used the stick-um that came
with it. They've never failed, and the car is over 10 yrs old.
One nice thing about the foil is it that it can be cut very
precisely with scissors, or a paper cutter.

Tim O'Connor


Re: In praise of 0.005 styrene

jerryglow2
 

The clear .005 product doesn't seem to disolve as readily with solvent application.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@..., "Jack Burgess" <jack@...> wrote:

Thanks Bill...

I don't use .005" styrene that often but when I do, I use CA to bond
it...the MEK I use for styrene is just too "hot".

Jack


Re: NYC freight car colors for 1951

O Fenton Wells
 

Thanks so much Ben. Your attachment answered my question. So in 1951 I
probably should do both in red or one each and the black on weathered up a
bit.
Thanks and Merry Christmas.
Fenton Wells

On Thu, Dec 22, 2011 at 12:18 PM, Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...> wrote:

**


Fenton Wells asked:
"I am getting ready to assemble a few of the F&C kits for the NYC 40 gon.
F&C
box

shows them as boxcar red, but I've seen pictures of them in balck. Which
color
is correct for a 1951 era paint scheme? Any NYC experts out there that can
offer

some good advice?"

Courtesy of Terry Link:
http://www.canadasouthern.com/caso/NYC-MODELS-FREIGHT.htm
Scroll 1/3 of the way down the page.

Ben Hom



--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Bill Welch
 

Jack, I totally get it. That is why I prefer Testers, which has some sort of retarder in it, making it more tame.

Bill

--- In STMFC@..., "Jack Burgess" <jack@...> wrote:

Thanks Bill...

I don't use .005" styrene that often but when I do, I use CA to bond
it...the MEK I use for styrene is just too "hot".

Jack


Re: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Gary Roe
 

On Behalf Of Bill Welch

This just reminds me one more time how valuable this Evergreen
product is.

Bill Welch


Bill,

I am grateful for ALL of the Evergreen products, and would be totally lost
without them. I hope they never go away.

gary roe
quincy, illinois


Re: KRLX 6777

Richard Hendrickson
 

On Dec 22, 2011, at 8:58 AM, Larry Sexton wrote:

At some point after January 1942 and prior to June 1947, the
reporting marks
for Kingan & Company (K.R.L.X.) should show up as leasing meat
reefers under
the National Car Company and the lease would run for some time
thereafter.
What can anyone tell me the earliest date KRLX reporting marks
appeared
under the National Car Company, and what car series was listed in
the ORER?
Larry, the KRLX reporting marks aren't listed under National Car Co.
(or elsewhere) in the 7/43 or 1/45 ORERs.

See you soon at CB.


Richard Hendrickson


Re: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Jack Burgess <jack@...>
 

Thanks Bill...

I don't use .005" styrene that often but when I do, I use CA to bond
it...the MEK I use for styrene is just too "hot".

Jack

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