Date   

Re: Patch panels, was: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Bruce Smith
 

Jerry, Barry,

I do not know about other railroad's practices, but patch panels on the
PRR's cars were most definitely NOT applied under the regular side
panels. They were applied over the existing panels and stood proud of
those panels. Yes, I realize that this creates a ledge which can catch
water, but that is the way it was done. So at least for my PRR cars,
the decal/foil approach is absolutely appropriate and in my experience
creates a slightly more realistic look than the pencil line.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

<jerryglow@comcast.net> 12/24/11 8:00 AM >>>
I agree with Barry's recommendation. If Greg Martin and others who
followed his advice for simulating weld seams works, this should too.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Barrybennetttoo@... wrote:

All this discussion by various of you misses one significant point.

The repaired body panels overlap the patch panels at the bottom, as
the
patches are inserted UNDER the repaired body panel, not attached over
them.
Consequently, the panel edge faces DOWN, using decal patches etc
would give
the effect of them facing UP.

To get the correct effect using decal paper etc you would have to
decal the
body panel leaving the repair patch undecalled.

I just draw a fine line with a pencil, take a sharp blade and straight
edge
and cut a fine line with the blade angled away from the bottom of the
car
side. This causes a raised edge at the bottom of the panel which
after
painting and weathering gives the impression of the overlapping panel
edge.

Barry Bennett
Coventry, England









------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: One RUTLAND decal in S

Don <riverman_vt@...>
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Phillip Blancher <pblancher@...> wrote:

One of the nice things about this set is that it includes an extra
pair of the empty routing return instructions that were omitted by
Kadee on their PS-2 models. Those instructions were added as soon as
the cars delivered to the Rutland, before they went into revenue
service.

Phil


On Fri, Dec 23, 2011 at 7:06 PM, Bob McCarthy <thesupplycar@...> wrote:
This is the decal that I referred to earlier.

B.

--- On Sat, 12/17/11, jerryglow@... <jerryglow@...> wrote:

From: jerryglow@... <jerryglow@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: new decal
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, December 17, 2011, 5:56 PM

There were at least two of these Kadee covered hoppers for the Rutland offered on eBay over the past week.

Merry Christmas, Don Valentine - long a Rutland fanatic


Re: Patch panels, was: In praise of 0.005 styrene

jerryglow2
 

I agree with Barry's recommendation. If Greg Martin and others who followed his advice for simulating weld seams works, this should too.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Barrybennetttoo@... wrote:

All this discussion by various of you misses one significant point.

The repaired body panels overlap the patch panels at the bottom, as the
patches are inserted UNDER the repaired body panel, not attached over them.
Consequently, the panel edge faces DOWN, using decal patches etc would give
the effect of them facing UP.

To get the correct effect using decal paper etc you would have to decal the
body panel leaving the repair patch undecalled.

I just draw a fine line with a pencil, take a sharp blade and straight edge
and cut a fine line with the blade angled away from the bottom of the car
side. This causes a raised edge at the bottom of the panel which after
painting and weathering gives the impression of the overlapping panel edge.

Barry Bennett
Coventry, England







Re: Patch panels, was: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Barrybennetttoo@...
 

All this discussion by various of you misses one significant point.

The repaired body panels overlap the patch panels at the bottom, as the
patches are inserted UNDER the repaired body panel, not attached over them.
Consequently, the panel edge faces DOWN, using decal patches etc would give
the effect of them facing UP.

To get the correct effect using decal paper etc you would have to decal the
body panel leaving the repair patch undecalled.

I just draw a fine line with a pencil, take a sharp blade and straight edge
and cut a fine line with the blade angled away from the bottom of the car
side. This causes a raised edge at the bottom of the panel which after
painting and weathering gives the impression of the overlapping panel edge.

Barry Bennett
Coventry, England


Re: One RUTLAND decal in S

Phillip Blancher <pblancher@...>
 

One of the nice things about this set is that it includes an extra
pair of the empty routing return instructions that were omitted by
Kadee on their PS-2 models. Those instructions were added as soon as
the cars delivered to the Rutland, before they went into revenue
service.

Phil


On Fri, Dec 23, 2011 at 7:06 PM, Bob McCarthy <thesupplycar@yahoo.com> wrote:
This is the decal that I referred to earlier.

B.

--- On Sat, 12/17/11, jerryglow@comcast.net <jerryglow@comcast.net> wrote:

From: jerryglow@comcast.net <jerryglow@comcast.net>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: new decal
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, December 17, 2011, 5:56 PM


























     I failed to mention, most of the data came from or was verified by the folks in the RRHS. Obviously, they had a "horse in the race" but we all benefit from the resulting accuracy.



Jerry Glow



--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Glow <jerryglow@...> wrote:

Kadee did their PS2 for Rutland but they have no plans to rerun them in
the forseeable future so I did a set for one. It also gives you the
opportunity to do other numbered cars than Kadee produced.
See:http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/samples/Rutland_LO.jpg
Jerry Glow
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals


























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




--
--
Phillip Blancher
http://about.me/phillipblancher


Re: 1901 American Engineer & Railway Journal

bob_karig <karig@...>
 

If you search on Locomotive Engineering, it will also pull up old copies of Railway & Locomotive Engineering.

Similarly, it has back issues of Railway Age Gazette.

Wow!

Bob Karig


Re: 1901 American Engineer & Railway Journal

bob_karig <karig@...>
 

What a great find!!! If you enter "American Engineer" in the search window, it pulls up all the issues of the journal they have on file.

Thank you David!

Bob Karig


Still debating Cocoa

Schuyler Larrabee
 

I have not quite decided whether I will be at Cocoa. Not for lack of desire
to be there, at all.

Is anyone willing to share a room?


And I'd really like to share car expense to get from Orlando to Cocoa.



Thanks.

Schuyler






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Re: 1901 American Engineer & Railway Journal

water.kresse@...
 

David,



I like the details on the C&O 30-ton coke car.  No mention of cast iron drop doors in the 1922 diag sht.  You can alsos see the "stub" steel center-sills from the bolster to the draft gears.  Neat!



Find me a pictue of a C&O 10-ton 4-wheel coke car please . . . Santa!



Merry Christmas to you young man!  Enjoy!!



Al

----- Original Message -----


From: "David" <jaydeet2001@yahoo.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2011 7:46:27 PM
Subject: [STMFC] 1901 American Engineer & Railway Journal

http://www.archive.org/details/americanengineer75newy

Found this whilst Googling. Lots of freight car goodies from the earliest years of the steel car era.

David Thompson




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Evergreen

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Tim David wrote:
In the UK styrene sections and sheet, both Evergreen and other manufacturers, seem to have always been sold in 1/1000s of an inch (normally referred to as thou, e.g. '5 thou sheet'). This is despite the UK being theoretically metric for the last 35 years or so. I'm not sure how it works in mainland Europe, whether the actually sizes are different or the non-whole number metric equivalents are used. I've never seen it sold as scaled down prototype sizes, possibly because the main scale isn't H0.
Tim, no doubt you noticed that we Americans blame our system of units on the English <g>.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Evergreen

talltim10
 

In the UK styrene sections and sheet, both Evergreen and other manufacturers, seem to have always been sold in 1/1000s of an inch (normally referred to as thou, e.g. '5 thou sheet'). This is despite the UK being theoretically metric for the last 35 years or so. I'm not sure how it works in mainland Europe, whether the actually sizes are different or the non-whole number metric equivalents are used. I've never seen it sold as scaled down prototype sizes, possibly because the main scale isn't H0.

Tim David

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Thompson <thompson@...> wrote:

ken chapin wrote:
sounds like they are using the metric system so they can have one
list for every were the U S is the only one that is not using that
standard.
Sounds to me like it's in English inches, so it's not the
metric system, it's the English digital system.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


1901 American Engineer & Railway Journal

David
 

http://www.archive.org/details/americanengineer75newy

Found this whilst Googling. Lots of freight car goodies from the earliest years of the steel car era.

David Thompson


Re: Patch panels, was: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
 

Using Champ decal paper for patches is a brilliant idea! I never
thought of it. It would work great for truck trailer roof patches!
Tim "wishing I'd some extra blank decal sheets" O'Connor
Many hobby shops have sale bins with solid color decal sheets for $0.99 or
so, and if you go to an IPMS plastic model show and swap meet you can
usually find people selling decals for cheap.

KL


Re: Patch panels, was: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Tim O'Connor
 

Using Champ decal paper for patches is a brilliant idea! I never
thought of it. It would work great for truck trailer roof patches!

Tim "wishing I'd some extra blank decal sheets" O'Connor

At 12/23/2011 05:48 PM Friday, you wrote:
Actually I was thinking of using clear Champ scraps.
Bill


One RUTLAND decal in S

Bob McCarthy
 

This is the decal that I referred to earlier.

B.

--- On Sat, 12/17/11, jerryglow@comcast.net <jerryglow@comcast.net> wrote:

From: jerryglow@comcast.net <jerryglow@comcast.net>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: new decal
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, December 17, 2011, 5:56 PM
















 









I failed to mention, most of the data came from or was verified by the folks in the RRHS. Obviously, they had a "horse in the race" but we all benefit from the resulting accuracy.



Jerry Glow



--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Glow <jerryglow@...> wrote:

Kadee did their PS2 for Rutland but they have no plans to rerun them in
the forseeable future so I did a set for one. It also gives you the
opportunity to do other numbered cars than Kadee produced.
See:http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/samples/Rutland_LO.jpg
Jerry Glow
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: ATSF Fe-22,23 Rebuilt boxcar Sunshine mini-kits

Paul Lyons
 

Richard,
It would be a long trip for nothing--Martin never goes to Cocoa Beach! I may have on and will get back to you off line in a moment.
Paul Lyons

-----Original Message-----
From: richtownsend <richtownsend@netscape.net>
To: STMFC <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Dec 23, 2011 2:46 pm
Subject: [STMFC] ATSF Fe-22,23 Rebuilt boxcar Sunshine mini-kits




I am looking for two Sunshine mini-kits for the ATSF Fe-22,23 Rebuilt boxcar. Does anyone have one or two they would like to get rid of? I will not be at Cocoa Beach so I will not be able to see if Sunshine brings any for sale there.

Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, Oregon

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Patch panels, was: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Bill Welch
 

Actually I was thinking of using clear Champ scraps.

Bill

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "jim_mischke" <jmischke@...> wrote:



When I was building ship and airplane models as a kid, they came with the thickest rankest baddest decals imaginable. Monogram and Revell. Decal film was thicker than baseball card bubblegum. Worse than early Walthers, but not by much. I still have some around, for just this purpose.

Consider such garage sale model decals for HO scale boxcar and hopper patchwork.

- This would work best on unpainted models, even the clear sections are only translucent at best.

- Use decal solvent lightly. You do NOT want to dissolve these bad boys, only apply dilute solvent for positioning, settling, and adherance.










--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Todd Horton <toddchorton@> wrote:

Has anyone tred to use this for patch panels on X29's? Sound like if this is available in clear then you  might be able to "fix" an early decorated Red Caboose model without repainting.  Todd Horton

From: Andy Carlson <midcentury@>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] In praise of 0.005 styrene


 
Jack Spencer gets great results with varying thicknesses of Mylar. .003" -.006"
sheets are commonly used by him.

Myself, I like using the RC item self-adhesive "Monocote Trim", not to be
confused with heat-shrinking Monokote. The trim is .003" plastic film with a
peel-off paper backing, and is very good at taking rivet impressions. Comes in
almost any color imagined, except light gray was not available when I made my
last purchase-I settled for white.

I have had excellent results bonding .005" styrene to styrene by applying small
amounts of Testors solvent glue to the area of the field with which you intend
to place the .005" overlay. Wait for the solvent to flash off, then place your
thin .005" plastic piece in place. The amount of residual solvent makes an
excellent bond. Doesn't fall off, even when used for patterns and removed from
the mold.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

________________________________
From: Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, December 22, 2011 10:52:44 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] In praise of 0.005 styrene

I only wish we could get .003 sheet, in BLACK styrene. :-)

But I am a huge fan of Evergreen including the .005 sheet.

Ever use aluminum foil for parts? I made some door stops for
a stock car from HVAC 'sticky' aluminum foil. I didn't have
to glue the base to the car, just used the stick-um that came
with it. They've never failed, and the car is over 10 yrs old.
One nice thing about the foil is it that it can be cut very
precisely with scissors, or a paper cutter.

Tim O'Connor

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Patch panels, was: In praise of 0.005 styrene

Jim Mischke
 

When I was building ship and airplane models as a kid, they came with the thickest rankest baddest decals imaginable. Monogram and Revell. Decal film was thicker than baseball card bubblegum. Worse than early Walthers, but not by much. I still have some around, for just this purpose.

Consider such garage sale model decals for HO scale boxcar and hopper patchwork.

- This would work best on unpainted models, even the clear sections are only translucent at best.

- Use decal solvent lightly. You do NOT want to dissolve these bad boys, only apply dilute solvent for positioning, settling, and adherance.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Todd Horton <toddchorton@...> wrote:

Has anyone tred to use this for patch panels on X29's? Sound like if this is available in clear then you  might be able to "fix" an early decorated Red Caboose model without repainting.  Todd Horton

From: Andy Carlson <midcentury@...>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] In praise of 0.005 styrene


 
Jack Spencer gets great results with varying thicknesses of Mylar. .003" -.006"
sheets are commonly used by him.

Myself, I like using the RC item self-adhesive "Monocote Trim", not to be
confused with heat-shrinking Monokote. The trim is .003" plastic film with a
peel-off paper backing, and is very good at taking rivet impressions. Comes in
almost any color imagined, except light gray was not available when I made my
last purchase-I settled for white.

I have had excellent results bonding .005" styrene to styrene by applying small
amounts of Testors solvent glue to the area of the field with which you intend
to place the .005" overlay. Wait for the solvent to flash off, then place your
thin .005" plastic piece in place. The amount of residual solvent makes an
excellent bond. Doesn't fall off, even when used for patterns and removed from
the mold.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

________________________________
From: Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, December 22, 2011 10:52:44 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] In praise of 0.005 styrene

I only wish we could get .003 sheet, in BLACK styrene. :-)

But I am a huge fan of Evergreen including the .005 sheet.

Ever use aluminum foil for parts? I made some door stops for
a stock car from HVAC 'sticky' aluminum foil. I didn't have
to glue the base to the car, just used the stick-um that came
with it. They've never failed, and the car is over 10 yrs old.
One nice thing about the foil is it that it can be cut very
precisely with scissors, or a paper cutter.

Tim O'Connor

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


ATSF Fe-22,23 Rebuilt boxcar Sunshine mini-kits

Richard Townsend
 

I am looking for two Sunshine mini-kits for the ATSF Fe-22,23 Rebuilt boxcar. Does anyone have one or two they would like to get rid of? I will not be at Cocoa Beach so I will not be able to see if Sunshine brings any for sale there.



Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, Oregon


Patch panels (was In praise of 0.005 styrene)

Bruce Smith
 

Bill, Todd,

I have used a very similar product to good effect for X29 patch panels
(and any other car that needs them). The stuff is a generic "bare metal
foil" and allows the rivets to show through. The adhesive works great
and makes it easy to apply. A little light burnishing and it shows all
the underlying rivet details. The biggest problems are that the upper
edge represents a weld rather than a riveted edge while the sides show
the rivets and the silver color can be an issue to paint over. These
days I might remove the rivets where I was putting the panel and add
Archer rivets to match the prototype. Another great thing about this
stuff is that you can add uneven height patch panels and you can
duplicate repairs where only a few panels were repaired. As for the
painting... I just painted the entire car silver and then FCC ;^)

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

"lnbill" <fgexbill@tampabay.rr.com> 12/22/11 8:25 PM >>>
Todd:

While I think it could be burnished successfully to show the rivets on
the surface, I would think whatever adhiseve is used would spoil the
look. I would think multiple layers of clear decal film might work
better. I am thinking of trying multiple layers of decal film to model
the repairs made to FGE's ex-R7 reefer's diagonal and vertical bracing
albeit, before I paint them.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Todd Horton <toddchorton@...> wrote:

Has anyone tred to use this for patch panels on X29's? Sound like if
this is available in clear then you might be able to "fix" an early
decorated Red Caboose model without repainting. Todd Horton

F

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