Date   

Re: Panel Side Hoppers

water.kresse@...
 

Karen Parker tackled the C&O twin 50-ton and triple 70-ton  in the companion modeling articles to along with the prototype article in th C&O Historical Magazine.



Al kresse

----- Original Message -----


From: "Rich C" <rhcdmc@yahoo.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 11:49:29 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Panel Side Hoppers

Dennis and all,
 
This brings up an interesting future kitbash. What combination of panels would be needed to create a CNW Panel Side Quad rebuild?
 
Thanks,
Rich Christie


________________________________
From: soolinehistory <destorzek@mchsi.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 10:42 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Panel Side Hoppers


 


--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Rob Adams <steamera@...> wrote:

John;

While not the most common type of Wabash' panel hoppers, the good news
is that they did roster some cars that were very similar dimensionally
and visually to the Tichy panel hopper. These were rebuilt from early
1920's USRA clones. Wabash series 34000-34999, of 1941 cu ft capacity,
still numbered 498 cars in January 1950 according to the ORER. A nice
late 30's photo of WAB 34279 is available from Keith Sirman. I'll send
you a scan off-list.

So... you can have that Wabash car!

Regards,

Rob Adams
Wellman, IA
Apparently no one is concerned that the Tichy car only models one small batch of three prototype cars, and all the rest are stand-ins? For more discussion, go back to Message #93494 and work forward from there:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/message/93494

Dennis


Re: Panel Side Hoppers

Rich C
 

Dennis and all,
 
This brings up an interesting future kitbash. What combination of panels would be needed to create a CNW Panel Side Quad rebuild?
 
Thanks,
Rich Christie


________________________________
From: soolinehistory <destorzek@mchsi.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 10:42 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Panel Side Hoppers


 


--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Rob Adams <steamera@...> wrote:

John;

While not the most common type of Wabash' panel hoppers, the good news
is that they did roster some cars that were very similar dimensionally
and visually to the Tichy panel hopper. These were rebuilt from early
1920's USRA clones. Wabash series 34000-34999, of 1941 cu ft capacity,
still numbered 498 cars in January 1950 according to the ORER. A nice
late 30's photo of WAB 34279 is available from Keith Sirman. I'll send
you a scan off-list.

So... you can have that Wabash car!

Regards,

Rob Adams
Wellman, IA
Apparently no one is concerned that the Tichy car only models one small batch of three prototype cars, and all the rest are stand-ins? For more discussion, go back to Message #93494 and work forward from there:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/message/93494

Dennis


Re: Bowser PRR 2D-F8 trucks

devansprr
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Evans" <devans1@...> wrote:
All,

Sorry to answer part of my own post, but Jerry Britton's Keystone Crossings does list PRR freight trucks and applicable classes:

http://kc.pennsyrr.com/model/trucksho.php

So the Bowser truck 74325/6 50-ton archbar truck looks to match the PRR 2D-F1 truck.

Any comments on the following Stewart trucks and what they represent?

691-279 70t roller bearing truck

690-280 70t friction bearing truck - the Stewart 70t hopper parts drawing makes it appear that these two trucks are identical, except for the bearings.

691-293 truck used on 55t hopper

Dave Evans


Re: Panel Side Hoppers

Dennis Storzek
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Rob Adams <steamera@...> wrote:

John;

While not the most common type of Wabash' panel hoppers, the good news
is that they did roster some cars that were very similar dimensionally
and visually to the Tichy panel hopper. These were rebuilt from early
1920's USRA clones. Wabash series 34000-34999, of 1941 cu ft capacity,
still numbered 498 cars in January 1950 according to the ORER. A nice
late 30's photo of WAB 34279 is available from Keith Sirman. I'll send
you a scan off-list.

So... you can have that Wabash car!

Regards,

Rob Adams
Wellman, IA
Apparently no one is concerned that the Tichy car only models one small batch of three prototype cars, and all the rest are stand-ins? For more discussion, go back to Message #93494 and work forward from there:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/message/93494

Dennis


Re: 40' diagonal panel roofs

gn999gn
 

Steve,

Bill W. is correct. IMRC offers the rp-diag roof.

Ron dePierre

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "lnbill" <fgexbill@...> wrote:

Does not InterMountain have this roof also?

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Sandifer" <steve.sandifer@> wrote:

Who makes good diagonal panel roofs for 40' cars? Branchline parts are no
longer available I am told.



______________________________________________

J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer

mailto:steve.sandifer@

Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918

Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX
77025, 713-667-9417





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Creco doors

Clark Propst
 

Chad said he'd do a master and cast the doors.

So, I guess I'm taking orders! PLEASE contact me off list!!!

Won't know the price for awhile, but shouldn't be too bad.

Clark Propst


Re: Walthers Troop Sleeper

jonnyo55 <jonnyo55@...>
 

If you only want to remove the lettering, a very lo-tech method that's worked well for me is to wet the lettering with Solvaset, then literally erase the lettering with a new pencil eraser. Works great!

John O'Connell

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "John" <golden1014@...> wrote:

Paul,

If you run out of options, send it to me and I'll sandblast the lettering off and clean it up for you. Will only take a few minutes.

John

John Golden
O'Fallon, IL



--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "derrell" <onagerla@> wrote:

I'd like to add to the comments here;

First of all I've found that original flavored Pinesol removes paint from plastic quite well. Once the paint is loosened use a stiff bristle brush to whisk as much of it off the model as you can submersed in the Pinesol because it seems to smear back onto the model once the Pinesol is washed way under warm water. Then I put the parts in my ultra sonic cleaner filled with Windex (again original flavor). While plastic doesn't clean up in an Ultrasonic cleaner quite as well as metal it does help remove loose particles. Finally rinse everything in warm water (soapy is optional). This is a long-term job, which can take a few days to complete.

Naturally test your plastic in the Pinesol and Windex first! I've stripped Athearn and Life-Like in this manner.

As a professional painter I'd like to debunk a bit of the mythology about Air Honing (sand blasting) plastic; we seem to have this kid glove mentality about it. I Air Honed 4 plastic diesel shells yesterday (right along with a couple of brass pieces) in my Harbor Freight blasting cabinet. I used 220 grit silicon at between 80 and 140 psi (depending on how far down the air use pulled it)! The shells came out clean with NO damage to any of the plastic or detail. I think we either don't understand or we forget that silicon cuts rather than beats and the harder the surface the better it cuts (up to a point, of course). The softer a material is (again up to a point) the more the particles tend to bounce rather than cut.

You are all quite welcome to continue to use messy, ineffective, and long term baking soda if you wish but I tell you from hard experience that it is a waste of time when the silicon at a rather high pressure works great. Again I have not air honed every type of plastic so I would encourage you to test it first - but I say that more as a disclaimer. Athearn and Proto-2000 I've found to be quite safe!

As far as removing lettering I think the tool Jack Burgess mentions in his RMC article would be perfect with the silicon for this. Or the Paache Air Eraser. But if you use the baking soda prepare to be there "alllllllll daaaaaaay long"! Grrrrr.

Derrell

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Pierre" <pierre.oliver@> wrote:

Paul,
You might want to try Scalecoat paint remover.
I've used it to remove factory lettering on a finished locomotive. It worked quite well for me. Didn't really have any effect on the paint job. I used cotton swaps to apply the solution and just rubbed for a bit.
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Bernice" <chris_hillman@> wrote:

I wanted to get a Walthers undec Troop Sleeper but couldn't find one, so I wound up with a blue B&O version, #932-4169.

I want to paint it for the C&EI, in their blue with orange striping.

The questions is; how to remove the lettering without affecting the overall blue paint scheme.

What solvent will remove only the lettering? Or, will the whole car have to be paint-removed?

Thanks,

Paul Hillman


Re: Panel Side Hoppers

Clark Propst
 

Shame on you John for missing Stan's clinic at Lisle...Maybe you could get him to do it again at you RPM, or did he do it last year?

Clark Propst


Re: Creco doors

Clark Propst
 

I asked Chad if he'd make a mold off a door I have been hoarding. His reply was he didn't want to get into copywrite issues. That's understandable.
Clark Propst


Re: axel end caps, spray painting

North Model Railroad Supplies <nmrs@...>
 

Hi Jon,

I use a short length of heat shrink tubing that is a gentle push fit on the
axle ends.

I crimp the open end with a pair of combination pliers and it tends to stick
closed.

Each one is less than ¼” long.

I have reused them numerous times.



I agree with Richard that the commercial ones allow paint on the wheel
treads.

I made my own jig and used a tapered reamer to do the final sizing of the
holes.

With the tapered holes I get literally no paint on the treads.

Happy to post a photo if anyone is interested, although it’s a pretty basic
design.

Cheers

Dave North



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Re: Thank you (Steam Era Freight Cars web site is on-line again)

Andy Sperandeo
 

Rob,
Please also accept my thanks for bringing back the Steam Era Freight Cars website.
Andy 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Panel Side Hoppers

Bruce Smith
 

On Jan 23, 2012, at 7:38 AM, Rick Jesionowski wrote:

The PRR had one! Class Glf #250000

http://prr.railfan.net/freight/freightphotos.html?photo=BuildersPhotos/GLf_E12863_PRR250000_side.jpg&;fr=clGLF

Rick Jesionowski
Rich,

However, the basis of that conversion was NOT the USRA hopper, which is the basis of the Tichy kit, it was the GLa. Those interested in this singleton car can buy a laser cut Bowser GLa with resin side panels from Stan R. Likewise, the homebuilt panel sides on the Wabash do not match the USRA car, but again, Stan R has come to the rescue (while as previously noted - John can use the Tichy car for a minority panel side variant on the Wabash that was rebuilt from the USRA cars).

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
__
/ &#92;
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0


Re: Panel Side Hoppers

Rick Jesionowski
 


Re: Bowser PRR 2D-F8 trucks

robertb@smartchat.net.au
 

Rich,

Thanks so much for this info, it was excellent.

Regards,

Robert Bogie

----- Original Message -----
From: SUVCWORR@aol.com
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2012 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Bowser PRR 2D-F8 trucks




The H30 rode on a multitude of trucks:

2E-F2 Bowser Crown
2E-F2a different spring package
2E-F10 dbl truss
2E-F11 National
2E-F12 Young
2E-F13 dbl truss
2E-F14 National
2E-F15 Young
2E-F22 ASF A-3
2E-F22a ASF A-3

The difference between the classes of the same type are one or more of spring packages, brakes and bolster.

The H30a all rode on 2E-F22a ASF A-3 70 ton trucks.

The Tangent ASF A-3 truck should be close as the G31b rode on a variation of this truck.

So you have two options for the H30 the Bowser Crown truck or the Tangent ASF A-3 Note the National referred to in these classes is not the same as the National B-1 which was PRR truck class 2E-F23 nor the National C-1 which was2E-F25/b/c.

For the H30a the Tangent ASF A-3 should work

Rich Orr

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Bogie <robertb@smartchat.net.au>
To: STMFC <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sat, Jan 21, 2012 5:47 pm
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Bowser PRR 2D-F8 trucks

Rich,

Is there a truck available to be used under the H-30/H-30a class covered
hoppers.

Regards,

Robert Bogie
----- Original Message -----
From: SUVCWORR@aol.com
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2012 3:19 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Bowser PRR 2D-F8 trucks

The PRR "Crown" truck used on the Bowser H22 is part 74091 and truck class
2D-F2 (50 ton) and on the H21a 2E-F2 and 2E-F2a (70 ton truck thus the journal
size E).

The 2D-F8 is a 50 ton truck. Bowser part 74277, Red Caboose part 5009, Kadee
part 517 and Sunshine part TM7. This truck was used under some H22 but no H21
cars. These trucks were used under FM, GLa, GLb, GLc, GLe, GLf, GLg, GP, GPa,
GR, GRa, GS, GSa, GSc, GSd, H22, K7, K8, U6, XL, XLa, XLc, X23, X23a, X23b, X24,
X25, X25a, X25b, X25c, X25d, X28a, X29, X29a, X30 class cars.

The ASF-3 50 ton truck was PRR classes 2D-F25, 2D-F26, 2D-F26a. These were
used under X38, X40, X40a, X40b, X41, X41a and X41b class cars.

The ASF-3 70 ton truck was PRR classes 2E-F22, 2E-F22a, 2E-F22b and 2E-F22f

Rich Orr



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Creco doors

Rich C
 

Larry, They are the standard size 6' x 9' +/- door designed to fit a 1937 10' IH Red Caboose Box Car. I am looking for 3 pairs.
 
Rich Christie


________________________________
From: Larry Sexton <SSEXTON9@tampabay.rr.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 5:55 AM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Creco doors


 
As am I. Can anyone tell me the size of the doors they are seeking, just in case I find a source.

Larry Sexton

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rich C
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2012 9:57 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Creco doors

Tom, I am looking for some myself.

Rich Christie

________________________________
From: consol2579 <tomedill@frontier.com <mailto:tomedill%40frontier.com> >
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2012 12:43 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Creco doors

Hi
Would anybody happen to have four of the Creco doors made by Keith Reterrer they would be willing to sell? thanks, Tom Dill

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Creco doors

Larry Sexton
 

As am I. Can anyone tell me the size of the doors they are seeking, just in case I find a source.



Larry Sexton



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rich C
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2012 9:57 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Creco doors





Tom, I am looking for some myself.

Rich Christie

________________________________
From: consol2579 <tomedill@frontier.com <mailto:tomedill%40frontier.com> >
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2012 12:43 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Creco doors


Hi
Would anybody happen to have four of the Creco doors made by Keith Reterrer they would be willing to sell? thanks, Tom Dill

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Photo-etched Eyebolts

Howard Goodwin
 

Peter,

I would be interested in some of the etchings you are offering.
Please contact me offline, horn69@bellsouth.net as my attempts to contact
you have not met with success. Thanks.

Howard



_____

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
peteraue
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2012 1:24 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Photo-etched Eyebolts





Here are a few more bits of information:
The cost of the frets will be between US$ 3.- and 5.- depending on the
volume because I have to recover some serious set-up cost.
Delivery time will be approximately 2 months.
Please let me know how many of each of the frets you would like to have so
that I can meet your demand. I will only order as many as needed.
Peter Aue

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> , "peteraue"
<peteraue@...> wrote:

Several members of this group have seen the photo-etched eyebolts I
designed for my own models and they have encouraged me to make them
available to other members of the group. I don't want to be in the parts
business but I am willing to make them available to you as a one time deal.
You can find them in the files section under "eyebolts 120120.pdf". If you
are interested please contact me offline.
Peter Aue


Re: SP hog fuel car

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Then it’s a matter of capitalization.



Duck Products Corporation made duct tape, but called it Duck Tape. I would guess that, say, Monsanto might make duct tape, but not Duck tape. Therefore, to properly call something Duck Tape, you would have to know that it was manufactured by Duck Products Corp, and it wouldn’t have to be duct tape to be called that.



Schuyler



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Sabol
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2012 11:23 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: SP hog fuel car





Duct tape was developed in 1942 by a subsidiary of Johnson and Johnson for the military to seal ammo cases against moisture. G.I.s soon discovered that it could be used for just about anything—except, ironically, ducts where it could melt and catch fire—including aircraft dings and, much later, even helicopter blades that were out of balance. A later manufacturer of duct tape was the Duck Products Corp which called their brand, naturally, “Duck” tape. Thus, duct tape came to be called by some persons duck tape both because of mispronunciation and because of the Duck Products company which labeled their duct tape, naturally, Duck Tape. But in 1942 there was only duct tape. In 2012 neither duck tape nor duct tape is exclusively correct; it’s just interesting to know a little history for whatever spelling one favors. Jim here.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Re: SP hog fuel car

Jim Sabol
 

Duct tape was developed in 1942 by a subsidiary of Johnson and Johnson for the military to seal ammo cases against moisture. G.I.s soon discovered that it could be used for just about anything—except, ironically, ducts where it could melt and catch fire—including aircraft dings and, much later, even helicopter blades that were out of balance. A later manufacturer of duct tape was the Duck Products Corp which called their brand, naturally, “Duck” tape. Thus, duct tape came to be called by some persons duck tape both because of mispronunciation and because of the Duck Products company which labeled their duct tape, naturally, Duck Tape. But in 1942 there was only duct tape. In 2012 neither duck tape nor duct tape is exclusively correct; it’s just interesting to know a little history for whatever spelling one favors. Jim here.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Creco doors

Rich C
 

Tom, I am looking for some myself.
 
Rich Christie


________________________________
From: consol2579 <tomedill@frontier.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2012 12:43 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Creco doors


 
Hi
Would anybody happen to have four of the Creco doors made by Keith Reterrer they would be willing to sell? thanks, Tom Dill




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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