Date   

Re: tank car placards for models update

Jim Betz
 

Paul,
Thanks for the folder. Empty. Waiting for approval? Probably.

I look forward to the results of your 'archaeology'. And keep
us posted on when and where the clinic will be presented. *G*.

- Jim

--- In STMFC@..., Deis Paul <curlyp2@...> wrote:

Some additional information on Placards. I have been doing research for an article on placards. My former career was teaching Hazmat so I had an interest.
The earliest placards I could find were from 1903. The earliest regulations I could find were produced in 1908 by the ARA.
I posted photos of some of the placards and pages from the 1908 regs in a folder called Paul's Placards. I have data and placards from 1903 until present day but they are in storage. Some day I will dig them out and get the article written

Paul Deis
D&P Mountain Railroad
curlyp2@...
http://web.mac.com/curlyp





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Re: tank car placards for models

Jim Betz
 

Hi guys,

I checked The Train Shop for the 87-975 decals. No joy.
(They did put them on their order list however.) Due to Tony's
comments about MicroScale not having them right now I checked
MicroScale's web site - "Not available". I doubt their website
is sophisticated enough to log people's visits as input to their
production schedules.
I suggest that if you want some of these decals that you
either get your supplier to order some - or send an email or
call MicroScale.

info@...

(714) 593-1422 (Main Number / General Information)

Tony,

If what I saw when I checked the website is true then the
placards included on 87-975 do -not- include the "empties"
decals ... I found their very poorly represented image and
saved it and used software to enlarge it ... didn't see any
thing that even closely resembled the "half black" style you
show on your blog.
- Jim


Re: tank car placards for models update

Paul Deis
 

Some additional information on Placards. I have been doing research for an article on placards. My former career was teaching Hazmat so I had an interest.
The earliest placards I could find were from 1903. The earliest regulations I could find were produced in 1908 by the ARA.
I posted photos of some of the placards and pages from the 1908 regs in a folder called Paul's Placards. I have data and placards from 1903 until present day but they are in storage. Some day I will dig them out and get the article written

Paul Deis
D&P Mountain Railroad
curlyp2@...
http://web.mac.com/curlyp


Re: guitar strings

albyrno
 

Chuck,
 Good point they come in different types and sizes that can be used for modeling,plain wire and either flatwound or round wire wrapped strings to choose from,flat and wound can be used for steam lines and plain for railings,grab irons ,piping,most music stores restring guitars and shouldn't have a problem with giving you old strings as they are not good for re-use.
Alan


________________________________
From: "RUTLANDRS@..." <RUTLANDRS@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] guitar strings



 

Alan,
As is, the guitar string make nice lagged piping.
Chuck Hladik


In a message dated 3/20/2012 12:38:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
albyrno@... writes:

Another source for music wire is guitar strings,they are sold by
diameter,if you know someone who plays guitar ask them for the old strings next time
they change them or go to a music store and tell them what size wire your
looking for and get it there.Strings straighten out when you remove coiled
spring from envelope.
Alan

________________________________
From: randy arnold <_61mkii@... (mailto:61mkii@...) >
To: _STMFC@... (mailto:STMFC@...)
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 2:22 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] bending brass grab irons

Rob
You might try .008" music wire from Small Part Inc, it holds paint better
than brass and should not break.

Randy

On Tue, Mar 20, 2012 at 2:50 AM, Anthony Thompson <
_thompson@... (mailto:thompson@...) > wrote:

**


Rob Kirkham wrote:
I'm working on a Speedwitch model of an Erie 70000 series boxcar.
The ladders have relatively shorter rungs, so I am bending my own
(about scale 16" length). Using DA .008" brass wire, I find some of
> them break at the bends as a result of metal fatigue.

No, they're being deformed beyond their limited capacity. One
bend isn't fatigue.


While I can bend plenty, so will eventually get enough for the
model, I'm wondering if heating the brass wire before bending will
do anything to make it take the bend with less brittleness?
If it's ordinary brass, yes, softening it will work. Our brass
wire is cold drawn, consuming most of its capacity for further
deformation (which is why it breaks upon your bending it). Softening
fixes that. But it will also give you ladder rungs that are easily
bent out of shape (think floral wire). You might be best off to try
bending a slightly larger radius and just throw away the failures.

Tony Thompson
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937;
e-mail: _thompson@...
(mailto:thompson@...)


--
Best Regards
Randy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Re: Flatcar Load for You PRR and Wide Gauge Connoissuers (UNCLASSIFIED)

devansprr
 

Elden,

I can't remember where I just read this, but a significant amount of US to Russia "lend-lease" was shipped out of Oregon ports on Russian flagged merchant ships - remember that Japan and Russia were not at war until the very end of WWII. The material could not be armaments or munitions, but trains and food were ok. 50% of US to Russia "Lend-lease" flowed through the pacific route.

The Russian ships went to Vladivostok, and material would traverse the trans-siberian railway to get to western Russia.

Wonder how long it would be until those F30's saw PRR rails again...

Dave Evans

--- In STMFC@..., "Gatwood, Elden SAW" <elden.j.gatwood@...> wrote:

Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
Caveats: NONE

Gary;

Super pick up!

Why were they going to a west coast routing? Was Murmansk too dangerous? What port on the east coast of USSR was open?

Did these guys come out of Eddystone? If so, it would not be a surprise they chose F30A's. Those flats were a much better choice than any of the riveted flats, and you often see photos of them overloaded. I suspect the choice was deliberate, as both flats are F30A's.

Elden Gatwood


-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of vasa0vasa@...
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 6:15 PM
To: STMFC
Subject: [STMFC] Flatcar Load for You PRR and Wide Gauge Connoissuers



For all you connoissuers of PRR flatcars and wide gauge equipment, here are pictures from a posting on the Northern Pacific yahoo group showing Nixon pictures from Missoula, MT on October 25, 1943. It appears the routing did not use the Bruceton detour for PRR equipement, though the flatcars may have been supplied as empties from there.

gary laakso
south of Mike Brock
vasa0vasa@... <mailto:vasa0vasa%40earthlink.net>

"USSR 24-25 Baldwin Builder # 69932-69933 for export to Russia, passing through Missoula on a revenue freight train."
Date: October 25, 1943
Location: Missoula, MT

http://muse.museum.montana.edu/rvndb/rvnjpeg_img_rec.php?objno=RVN07753

http://muse.museum.montana.edu/rvndb/rvnjpeg_img_rec.php?objno=RVN07746

http://muse.museum.montana.edu/rvndb/rvnjpeg_img_rec.php?objno=RVN07752

http://muse.museum.montana.edu/rvndb/rvnjpeg_img_rec.php?objno=RVN07749

http://muse.museum.montana.edu/rvndb/rvnjpeg_img_rec.php?objno=RVN07747

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
Caveats: NONE


Re: tank car placards for models

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Jim Betz wrote:
Tony,
===> THANKS !!! <===
So even in the transition era tank cars that required placarding were, more or less and mostly more, in captive service ... in that they tended to be hauled either loaded (or empty) over and over for the same 'family' of products
===> correct?
Yes, that was very common.

The placard you picked up at WinteRail was "produced by the SLSF". Was that 'the practice' for placards in the steam era? I'm asking "were the placards in the steam era usually printed by/for the RRs and therefore would normally have a logo on them?".
I have seen them with and without railroad emblems. I suspect there were commercial producers of placards, just as there are today, and many users may have opted for the commercial (no emblem) placards.

Has anyone ever seen any kind of "post it note material" for consumer use that can be run thru a printer? . . . would be ideal for model use since you could even change out the placards on your cars between/during ops . . . it would be nice to have placards and other such items (waybills, etc.) that could be 'attached' to the model but also be able to change them out!
Jim, I tried this with SP train indicators using Post-It material--it only remains sticky for a few uses. But the basic idea is nice -- if rather fiddly in practice. I don't really have a desire to fuss with little bits of Post-It which are losing their grip, especially with tank cars with vulnerable placard holders. But of course YMMV.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Tichy

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Ashley Pollard wrote:
Question if I may?

Can the Tichy car be used as the basis for conversion of other tank cars. For instance the chassis can be used on something else to make it
better, or the tank can be put on another chassis to represent another type of tank care etc?
Absolutely. The underframe is the USRA design, but closely follows AC&F practice and is similar to AC&F underframes of much of the 1920s. I used it for my tank cars with scratchbuilt tanks, which were published in the January 2012 issue of _Railroad Model Craftsman_ magazine. Tichy sells the underframe, complete, as their part no. 3011, and they also sell a useful Tank Car Detail Set, part no. 3007.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Pre-orders, pro or con.

Jan Podganski Jr <needles_sub@...>
 

I agree with you. Recent events have disappointed me and I will no longer pre order. If I miss out, so be it. My life well go on. Jan


Pre-orders, pro or con.

lnnrr <lnnrr@...>
 

Folks, it appears that the concept of pre-ordering models months
before they are manufactured is becoming standard in some areas of
our hobby. I understand that this is a safety feature for the
manufacturers, that they can estimate the market and place the
production run at a 100% sale. Little risk of over-production.
It also says they have given up control of the manufacturing process
and so must control the market.
I, for one, am giving notice that I will no longer buy into the
pre-order cycle. When I buy a product sight unseen, I see myself
making a bet that the product will meet my hoped for quality
standards. By the time I know, it is too late. Pitch it or
ebay it, either way I lose.
If the maker has no faith in the marketability of the product and
fears it will lay unsold on the shelf, then I have no faith in
his product either. I will not make that bet again.
Yes, I will miss out on some products that I might otherwise find
desirable. But I see that as offset by having wasted no money
on disappointments.
I alone will change no makers marketing. But as more of us lose
faith in this pre-order system, those who have control of their
production will stock their shelves and prosper when we buy those
products. A critical review will mean something because we will be
aware of what we are buying.
A review that appears after a model is ordered and delivered is worthless. No longer timely. I hold hope that we as consumers
can help the makers who stock shelves have faith in their
products and in us as consumers. As for the others, perhaps
empty shelves are a portend of their future wealth.
Are there others who share feeling I have expressed here?
If so, please do not risk jail by mentioning or hinting at any
one manufacturer. The cookies there, I hear, are left over from
a wrecked boxcar still laying on a river bank somewhere.
Damp and worse.....
Chuck Peck


Re: tank car placards for models

Douglas Harding
 

Jim I have an image of an "Explosives" card that is lettered for the
Minneapolis & St Louis. So it would appear some railroads had their own
cards printed. I also have an image of several cards that are lettered for
all four railroads owned by Ed Hawley, which dates the cards between 1900
and 1912.



I have create a photo album "Placards" where I have uploaded these and some
other MSTL cards that may also have been posted on freight cars. The photos
are awaiting approval by a moderator.



Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org


Re: Milwaukee Solvay Tank Car

Charles Hostetler <cesicjh@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@...> wrote:
Charles, that car was a late teens/early '20s radial course 8k gal.
car built by the Standard Tank Car Co. and (if the lettering were
more visible) could be modeled with one of Jon Cagles' fine Southern
Car & Foundry kits,.

Thanks Richard,

I recall Jon's really well done clinic at Cocoa Beach two years ago regarding the kit. That was my first visit to Cocoa Beach and I'm afraid I absorbed more about the kit and assembly rather than thinking about potential prototypes - I wouldn't have made the association. I'm glad to have the opportunity to try one of them - it's a really different looking tank car with the radial courses, and I think it would go well with the environs of the coke plant. I'll have to hunt up something for the lettering when I get back. Maybe some really heavy weathering...

Regards,

Charles Hostetler
Goshen, IN


Re: CBQ GS Gon

Charles Hostetler <cesicjh@...>
 

Looks a lot like the CB&Q GS gon that Sunshine has/had available.
As well as 2000 composite GA's, the Burlington had six classes of composite GS gondolas totalling about 7500 cars, built between
1922 and 1938. They were variously rebuilt and renumbered, some being converted to GT's with solid bottoms. By 1951, when the
photo was taken, there were about 6500 GS's left (2100 GS-5/5X and 4350 GS-7 / GS-8). These three classes were very similar, the
GS-8 having a power hand brake and AAR design trucks.

Thanks Tom and Rupert, I shall investigate the Sunshine offering when I get back home.

Regards,

Charles Hostetler
Goshen, IN


Re: bending brass grab irons

Michael Watnoski
 

Hi Rob,

I always bend my own grab irons. It seems that the commercial never match exactly. Many of them use too heavy wire or a material that is too hard to clip without chipping my good wire cutters. Also drop grabs have the wrong dimensions or wide radius bends.

I use a pair of needle nose pliers with a piece of tape on the inside of the jaws. Just set the wire against the tape and roll the jaws on a hard surface for a sharp bend. bend with fingers for a slightly larger radius.

You have found the main problem with Detail Associates wire. It develops a temper in the wire making process. Bending it adds work hardening which makes it brittle. It can be annealed by heating it slightly with a butane lighter at the bend point. Unfortunately, there is very little control of the amount of softening. You also don't want to soften the whole grab as it won't hold its shape when handling.

My suggestion is to skip the DA brass wire and use the Tichy phosphor bronze wire. This has a consistent hardness that will not change if heated. It can be bent multiple times without cracking. It holds a straight line well and bends easily. The springiness is handy for making electrical pick ups.

Michael

On 3/20/2012 2:00 AM, Rob Kirkham wrote:
I'm working on a Speedwitch model of an Erie 70000 series boxcar. The
ladders have relatively shorter rungs, so I am bending my own (about scale
16" length). Using DA .008" brass wire, I find some of them break at the
bends as a result of metal fatigue. While I can bend plenty, so will
eventually get enough for the model, I'm wondering if heating the brass wire
before bending will do anything to make it take the bend with less
brittleness?

If you have experience on this topic, I'd like to hear about it.

Rob Kirkham





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




Re: tank car placards for models

mt19a <LarrynLynnHanlon@...>
 

Hi Jim,

Avery makes self adhesive white and transparent labels in various sizes designed to be run through laser or inkjet printers. I use #8660 clear inkjet labels for Christmas letter addressing, and have never had a problem with jams in the printer. I would guess their labels are typically .002 - .004" in thickness.

I'll let you change out the placards, etc., though! :)

Larry Hanlon.
Bend, OR

--- In STMFC@..., Jim Betz <jimbetz@...> wrote:

Has anyone ever seen any kind of "post it note material" for
consumer use that can be run thru a printer? I would have to have
some kind of peel off covering for the sticky part. But would be
ideal for model use since you could even change out the placards
on your cars between/during ops ... oh damn, I think I just opened
up Pandora's box! But it would be nice to have placards and other
such items (waybills, etc.) that could be 'attached' to the model
but also be able to change them out!
- Jim


Re: Tahoe Model Works Trucks

np328
 

Brian, I was looking at blueprints the other day of two-level Dalman trucks (with you know what railroads marking in the lower right corner to sweeten things). If you need the blueprints to get started.....
Jim Dick - St. Paul

--- In STMFC@..., "brianleppert@..." <brianleppert@...> wrote:

Yes, I've given them a thought, and that's why I don't buy kits needing them <g>. But then, that's not many kits.

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works
Carson City, NV

--- In STMFC@..., <tmolsen@> wrote:

Brian,

Have you given any thought in producing a Two-Level Dalman with an Andrews sideframe casting?

Tom Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292
tmolsen@


Re: guitar strings

MDelvec952
 

As a musician I've used many retired guitar strings on models, .008" mostly on standard grab irons since they are much tougher than brass of the same thickness. E Strings (smallest on most guitars) come in .008, .009, .010, 011 and .012 to fill most grab iron needs, and thicker on B and G strings for brake pipe and other grabs and pipes. Guitar strings stay straight and generally don't stay sagged with most handling.

Some warnings: Short lengths do not bend easily, so use pliers. Guitars strings are steel, so they can rust if conditions are right for it. Certain sections of used strings may have matter (sweat, finger grease, oxidation) on them that may not take paint, so clean them before bending and cutting. Bronze strings have steel cores, as do the wrapped or wound strings. The best long-term fastening in drilled holes I've found is with epoxy, and it's best to drill all the way through so the guitar string can protrude and the epoxy can form a rivethead. Some of my models are more than 20 years old and I've never lost a grab iron in epoxy, and I have with ACC. Most importantly, guitar strings make deep holes in your fingertips without warning. Those on blood thinners or prone to infection should use something else.

....Mike Del Vecchio

-----Original Message-----
From: RUTLANDRS <RUTLANDRS@...>
To: STMFC <STMFC@...>
Sent: Tue, Mar 20, 2012 2:00 pm
Subject: Re: [STMFC] guitar strings




Alan,
As is, the guitar string make nice lagged piping.
Chuck Hladik


In a message dated 3/20/2012 12:38:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
albyrno@... writes:

Another source for music wire is guitar strings,they are sold by
diameter,if you know someone who plays guitar ask them for the old strings next time
they change them or go to a music store and tell them what size wire your
looking for and get it there.Strings straighten out when you remove coiled
spring from envelope.
Alan

________________________________
From: randy arnold <_61mkii@... (mailto:61mkii@...) >
To: _STMFC@... (mailto:STMFC@...)
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 2:22 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] bending brass grab irons

Rob
You might try .008" music wire from Small Part Inc, it holds paint better
than brass and should not break.

Randy

On Tue, Mar 20, 2012 at 2:50 AM, Anthony Thompson <
_thompson@... (mailto:thompson@...) > wrote:

**


Rob Kirkham wrote:
I'm working on a Speedwitch model of an Erie 70000 series boxcar.
The ladders have relatively shorter rungs, so I am bending my own
(about scale 16" length). Using DA .008" brass wire, I find some of
them break at the bends as a result of metal fatigue.
No, they're being deformed beyond their limited capacity. One
bend isn't fatigue.


While I can bend plenty, so will eventually get enough for the
model, I'm wondering if heating the brass wire before bending will
do anything to make it take the bend with less brittleness?
If it's ordinary brass, yes, softening it will work. Our brass
wire is cold drawn, consuming most of its capacity for further
deformation (which is why it breaks upon your bending it). Softening
fixes that. But it will also give you ladder rungs that are easily
bent out of shape (think floral wire). You might be best off to try
bending a slightly larger radius and just throw away the failures.

Tony Thompson
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937;
e-mail: _thompson@...
(mailto:thompson@...)


--
Best Regards
Randy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: bending brass grab irons

Jim Barnes
 

Another alternative to brass wire would be phospher bronze.  This wire bends very well and makes great grab irons.  You can find some at: http://www.tichytraingroup.com as well as other sources.  Jim Barnes


________________________________
From: Alan Kilby <albyrno@...>
To: "STMFC@..." <STMFC@...>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] bending brass grab irons


 
Another source for music wire is guitar strings,they are sold by diameter,if you know someone who plays guitar ask them for the old strings next time they change them or go to a music store and tell them what size wire your looking for and get it there.Strings straighten out when you remove coiled spring from envelope.
          Alan
       


________________________________
From: randy arnold <61mkii@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 2:22 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] bending brass grab irons

Rob
You might try .008" music wire from Small Part Inc, it holds paint better
than brass and should not break.

Randy

On Tue, Mar 20, 2012 at 2:50 AM, Anthony Thompson <
thompson@...> wrote:

**


Rob Kirkham wrote:
I'm working on a Speedwitch model of an Erie 70000 series boxcar.
The ladders have relatively shorter rungs, so I am bending my own
(about scale 16" length). Using DA .008" brass wire, I find some of
them break at the bends as a result of metal fatigue.
No, they're being deformed beyond their limited capacity. One
bend isn't fatigue.


While I can bend plenty, so will eventually get enough for the
model, I'm wondering if heating the brass wire before bending will
do anything to make it take the bend with less brittleness?
If it's ordinary brass, yes, softening it will work. Our brass
wire is cold drawn, consuming most of its capacity for further
deformation (which is why it breaks upon your bending it). Softening
fixes that. But it will also give you ladder rungs that are easily
bent out of shape (think floral wire). You might be best off to try
bending a slightly larger radius and just throw away the failures.

Tony Thompson
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937;
e-mail: thompson@...

 
--
Best Regards
Randy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: tank car placards for models

Jim Betz
 

Tony,

===> THANKS !!! <===

As you know I model "the transition era" for about 95% or more
of what I do. The timing of your post and blog entries are 'spot on'
for my personal needs because I am in the process of adding "depth"
to my roster of tank car models. Both in terms of the number of cars
but also in terms of "adding details" (including placards).

So even in the transition era tank cars that required placarding
were, more or less and mostly more, in captive service ... in that
they tended to be hauled either loaded (or empty) over and over
for the same 'family' of products

===> correct?

So if you have some industries on your layout that are actually
using tank cars - you would want to have cars that have both the
loaded and unloaded placards ... and you would want to 'cycle'
the cars back and forth during your op sessions. Sheesh - one
more detail to add to the set up (aka "reset") for the layout! *G*

The placard you picked up at WinteRail was "produced by the SLSF".
Was that 'the practice' for placards in the steam era? I'm asking
"were the placards in the steam era usually printed by/for the RRs
and therefore would normally have a logo on them?".
I would guess that other than cars that are in "company service"
(such as diesel fuel for the RR itself) would not necessarily have
placards on them that are the same as the car. They might or might
not depending upon where the car had travelled recently.

Has anyone ever seen any kind of "post it note material" for
consumer use that can be run thru a printer? I would have to have
some kind of peel off covering for the sticky part. But would be
ideal for model use since you could even change out the placards
on your cars between/during ops ... oh damn, I think I just opened
up Pandora's box! But it would be nice to have placards and other
such items (waybills, etc.) that could be 'attached' to the model
but also be able to change them out!
- Jim


Re: Tichy was Milwaukee Solvay Tank Car

Bruce Smith
 

Ashley,

Yes, this has been discussed here many times. The tank can be used with a type 27 frame (IM) to build the WWII USGA tanks. The frame can be used to model a series of NATX tanks (for which Speedwitch did a kit, iirc)


Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/


"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

__

/ &#92;

__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________

|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |

| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||

|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|

| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0

On Mar 20, 2012, at 12:14 PM, Ashley Pollard wrote:

Question if I may?

Can the Tichy car be used as the basis for conversion of other tank
cars. For instance the chassis can be used on something else to make it
better, or the tank can be put on another chassis to represent another
type of tank care etc?

--
Ashley Pollard


Re: guitar strings

Charles Hladik
 

Alan,
As is, the guitar string make nice lagged piping.
Chuck Hladik

In a message dated 3/20/2012 12:38:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
albyrno@... writes:




Another source for music wire is guitar strings,they are sold by
diameter,if you know someone who plays guitar ask them for the old strings next time
they change them or go to a music store and tell them what size wire your
looking for and get it there.Strings straighten out when you remove coiled
spring from envelope.
Alan



________________________________
From: randy arnold <_61mkii@... (mailto:61mkii@...) >
To: _STMFC@... (mailto:STMFC@...)
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 2:22 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] bending brass grab irons

Rob
You might try .008" music wire from Small Part Inc, it holds paint better
than brass and should not break.

Randy

On Tue, Mar 20, 2012 at 2:50 AM, Anthony Thompson <
_thompson@... (mailto:thompson@...) > wrote:

**


Rob Kirkham wrote:
I'm working on a Speedwitch model of an Erie 70000 series boxcar.
The ladders have relatively shorter rungs, so I am bending my own
(about scale 16" length). Using DA .008" brass wire, I find some of
> them break at the bends as a result of metal fatigue.

No, they're being deformed beyond their limited capacity. One
bend isn't fatigue.


While I can bend plenty, so will eventually get enough for the
model, I'm wondering if heating the brass wire before bending will
do anything to make it take the bend with less brittleness?
If it's ordinary brass, yes, softening it will work. Our brass
wire is cold drawn, consuming most of its capacity for further
deformation (which is why it breaks upon your bending it). Softening
fixes that. But it will also give you ladder rungs that are easily
bent out of shape (think floral wire). You might be best off to try
bending a slightly larger radius and just throw away the failures.

Tony Thompson
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937;
e-mail: _thompson@...
(mailto:thompson@...)


--
Best Regards
Randy

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