Date   

Re: Scalecoat paint

Andy Harman
 

At 01:10 AM 4/6/2012 -0400, you wrote:

Unfortunately, we could never use the same 4-1 formula today as the Pullman Green that Scalecoat had originally marketed has changed color and is not the same hue as the original formula used originally.
I found that out the hard way when I painted one side of a passenger car and then did the other side and ends later and grabbed a different bottle. Take a look where the end and side meet:
http://www.gp30.com/models/PoplarValley/pv-015.jpg

Andy


Re: Scalecoat paint

Andy Harman
 

At 09:36 PM 4/5/2012 -0700, you wrote:

And then not VERY green. A Pittsburgh modeler I knew, who was
very familiar with Pennsy steam, said "If the MODEL looks green, it's
way too green."
I think Athearn got it right on their first run of Genesis F units. Everything else looks too green.

Andy


Rapid Prototyping

Bill Welch
 

The current issue of Military Miniatures in Review references a
company that used to show up regularly at military modeling
shows--"Print-a-Part"-- and notes they are now a part of Fine Line
Prototyping. Here is the link to their site: http://
www.finelineprototyping.com/why-fineline/?
gclid=CLaoqpu9oK8CFcZdTAodv19iQg

MMIR also references a You tube tutorial about Rapid Prototyping.
Here is that link: www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQ-aWFYT_SU
Bill Welch
2225 Nursery Road; #20-104
Clearwater, FL 33764-7622
727.470.9930
fgexbill@tampabay.rr.com


Re: Scalecoat paint

Bruce Smith
 

Way back when I was still wet behind the ears (20 years ago?), a PRR modeler told me that they painted all their steam with Floquil Grimy Black. I was AGHAST! "Why sir", I asked, "don't you know that PRR steam locos were painted DGLE(DGLP)?" He smiled and said, "of course", and proceeded to explain that the slight green tinge to grimy black, combined with the weathered black produced an almost perfect basis for DGLE. Of course, as noted so recently here, grimy black no longer has this green overtone and is really just a dark grey now.

As Greg Martin taught me the following for DGLE - if it looks green, it is too green and if it looks black, it is too black. The true test for such a dark, dark green is to place it next to a true black. When you do that, you can readily see the difference. This is notable in many photos of PRR motive power, as the frames, trucks, etc were painted black.

But alas, we stray from freight cars, as to the best of my knowledge, none were painted in such a shade, and only a few Pullmans got this color paint (and were then assigned to the NYC!)


Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/


"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

__

/ \

__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________

|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |

| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||

|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|

| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0

On Apr 5, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Anthony Thompson wrote:
And then not VERY green. A Pittsburgh modeler I knew, who was
very familiar with Pennsy steam, said "If the MODEL looks green, it's
way too green." Bruce Smith may wish to comment, but I bet even the
most serious PRR color maven would hesitate to paint their locomotives
BLACK.


Re: Scalecoat paint

derrell
 

A Quart of green paint thrown (I visualized that this included the can and all) into a 55 gal. drum of Black. That was how DGLC was described to me.

On the other hand we split the spectrum to the inth degree to get our model colors exact, then put them under artificial light and run our steam engines on elect-Triciteeee....

Good Gawd. I think maybe we all need a good diversion like maybe a weenie roast or a hay-fever ride!

Square dancing anyone?

Derrell Poole


Re: Scalecoat paint

tmolsen@...
 

Tim,

That is just how true DGLE looks. It appears to be black, but in bright sunlight up close you can see that it is a very dark green. That was what was so striking to me when I saw those steam engines at Strasburg in 1965. Up to that time, the only DGLE locos that I had seen were the GG1 electrics.

The sky had just cleared after the rain and the sunlight was very bright and when you looked at those engines from an angle in the sun, you could see the green hue. It was not uncommon for people to mistake it for black.

Tom Olsen
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479


Re: Scalecoat paint

tmolsen@...
 

Back in the mid-60s when Scalecoat first came out DGLE was not yet available so we made our own. Since we needed a lot of it to spread around between five of us, we mixed four bottles of engine black to one bottle of pullman green. The result was a good match for DGLE.

To prove we hAd a good match, we painted a locomotive and took it up to Strasburg PA to see if it matched the PRR steam locomotives that had just arrived from the Juniata Shops in Altoona that had been completely refurbished. The five engines (Class M1b 4-8-2, G5s 4-6-0, H10s 2-8-0, H6sb 2-8-0, and a E7s 4-4-2 (masquerading as an E-2) were the first engines sent down to Strasburg to eventully become part of the yet to be built State Railroad Museum.

We got there in mid-morning just after it had rained and the sun had just came out. Our version of DGLE was a perfect match for the DGLE that Juniata had painted those engines.

Unfortunately, we could never use the same 4-1 formula today as the Pullman Green that Scalecoat had originally marketed has changed color and is not the same hue as the original formula used originally. When they took the lead binder out of the paint, the durability of the paint suffered. It is not quite the same, but is still the best stuff out there and is my favorite to use.

The PRR freight car color and the Tuscan Red has changed also. They are both darker than the the original Scalecoat formulas, although they reflect the colors used by the railroad in the later '50s and '60s. This was to be expected as the paints changed due to the use of synthetic pigments over the years.

Tom Olsen
7 Boundary Road, West Branch
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479
(302) 738-4292
tmolsen@udel.edu


Re: Scalecoat paint

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Tim O'Connor wrote:
George found that no one would buy real DGLE. He showed me the glass PRR drift plate painted DGLE -- in a brightly lit room, to my eyes, it looked BLACK as ebony. Only in the full force of real sunlight does it look green.
And then not VERY green. A Pittsburgh modeler I knew, who was very familiar with Pennsy steam, said "If the MODEL looks green, it's way too green." Bruce Smith may wish to comment, but I bet even the most serious PRR color maven would hesitate to paint their locomotives BLACK.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Scalecoat paint

Tim O'Connor
 

FYI I had used Accupaint to paint my PRR locos "Brunswick Green"
> until I learned that even that color was not correct.

George found that no one would buy real DGLE. He showed me the
glass PRR drift plate painted DGLE -- in a brightly lit room, to
my eyes, it looked BLACK as ebony. Only in the full force of real
sunlight does it look green.

Tim O'Connor


NP 40' Combination Door Car Modeling

Dave Sarther
 

NP Combination Door Cars

New Parts Developed for Project

Decal designer Jerry Glow (home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals.html) has expanded his line of NP combination door car decal choices for NP modelers. There are now three distinct sets of NP decals available for ordering and decaling combination door cars:

• Decals for the PS-1 cars from the #3000-3399 series
• Decals for the Brainerd Built cars from the #8000-9249 series
• Decals for the re-shopped cars from both the PS-1 and Brainerd Built series

Chad Boas (chadboas@yahoo.com) has developed a resin cast parts kit to modify the Intermountain PS undecorated kit #40499 for rebuilding into the NP #3000-3399 series cars. Chad's kit includes:

• A pair of reinforced fish belly side sills with door tracks
• Door stops
• A pair of the correct 6' wide Youngstown 5/5/5 panel doors
• A pair of 8' plug doors with roller wheel sets for under the plug doors

Chad also sells pairs of 5/5/5 Youngstown panel doors for the NP Brainerd Built cars that use an Accurail model as a base.

Stencils and Component Parts

In general, the PS-1 car shops had a few unique component parts and stencils, as did the Brainerd Shops cars. These are described below.

NP Stencils, Differences and Similarities
The most notable differences in stenciling between the two builders were the car builder name stencil, located on the right side of the car above the wheels, and the "nailable floor" stencil found on the PS-1 cars. Similarities in stencils between the two builders included the very large "stepped" NP initials on the left side panel between the car end and plug door; the very large eight-foot-diameter red/white/black "Northern Pacific Railway" herald on the right side panel; the "Route of the Vista-Dome North Coast Limited" slogan on the right side panel between the sliding door and herald; the location of the car numbers and car data; stencils on and below the plug and sliding doors; and the stencils on the car ends.

NP Component Parts, Differences and Similarities
PS-1 Car Components: The PS-1 built cars were numbered in the #3000–3399 series and had their own distinct PS component parts. Builders' photos show these cars as having 10 panel-welded sides, Pullman-Standard ends, a standard Pullman-Standard "bow-tie" roof, and Pullman-Standard seven rung ladders on the car sides. PS ladders on the "A" and "B" ends were PS-1 seven-rung ladders that flared out at the base, from the bottom along the inside stile up to the third rung. Five features common to both series were the reinforced fish belly side sills, the 8' plug doors, the 6' Youngstown corrugated 5/5/5 panel doors, the left car side grabs extended out beyond the car end, and the A.S.F. A-3 Ride Control Trucks.

NP Brainerd Shop Built Car Components: The NP combo door cars built at the Brainerd Shops were in the #8000–9249 series. The Brainerd Shop cars had 10 panel-riveted sides and featured late improved dreadnaught 1/3/4 ends, diagonal panel overhang roofs, and 8-rung ladders on both the sides and ends. The Brainerd Built series also had the fish belly reinforced side sills, the 8' plug doors, the 6' Youngstown corrugated 5/5/5 panel doors, the unusual car side grab iron position noted above, and the A-3 Ride Control Trucks.

Re-shopped Cars: The NP re-shopped some cars for repairs in1969, and in anticipation of the merger of the NP, GN and CB&Q, they also painted the cars BN green. These cars, regardless of their origin (PS-1 or Brainerd built), kept the same heralds and "stepped" NP initials as they had on the mineral-red cars. Differences appearing in the stencils included dropping the "Route of the Vista-Dome North Coast Limited" slogan and adding a redesigned data and reporting mark area. As far as I can tell, none of the component parts changed.

NP Combo Door Build Dates

NP Combo Door Car Diagrams indicate these build dates for the different series cars:
• PS-1 Series #3000–3399, 1959–1960, built by Pullman-Standard
• NPRY Co. Series #8000–8449, 1958, built by NP Brainerd Shops
• NPRY Co. Series #8450–8849, 1959–1960, built by NP Brainerd Shops
• NPRY Co. Series #8850–9249, 1960, built by NP Brainerd Shops
• NPRY Co. Series #9150–9200, 1960, built by NP Brainerd Shops

NP Combo Door Re-paints
The new reporting marks, data positioning, and location on the cars repainted by the Brainerd Shops in 1969 would within a few years match the BN 40' box car standard. Check individual photos for verification of cars that were repainted and stenciled. Known photos of BN Green cars from each series can be found online at www.rrrpicturearchives.net or www.rr-fallenflags.org for car NP #3345 and in Todd Sullivan's book NP Color Guide to Freight and Passenger Equipment for car NP #8130. There is another more obscure photo for NP #3055 in the NP TellTale Collection-JP3-149.tif. This photo shows the car in green with reweigh data, ladders cut down and roof walk removed.

Combination Door Car Project References
There is more prototype and modeling information in Matt Sugerman's blog regarding building NP #8000-9249 series cars: http://www.idahospanhandlerailroad.blogspot.com/2012/03/necessary-freight-cars-for-camas.html.

Happy modeling!
Dave Sarther


Re: addition to NP decals

Dave Sarther
 

NP Combination Door Cars

New Parts Developed for Project

Decal designer Jerry Glow (home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals.html) has expanded his line of NP combination door car decal choices for NP modelers. There are now three distinct sets of NP decals available for ordering and decaling combination door cars:

• Decals for the PS-1 cars from the #3000-3399 series
• Decals for the Brainerd Built cars from the #8000-9249 series
• Decals for the re-shopped cars from both the PS-1 and Brainerd Built series

Chad Boas (chadboas@yahoo.com) has developed a resin cast parts kit to modify the Intermountain PS undecorated kit #40499 for rebuilding into the NP #3000-3399 series cars. Chad's kit includes:

• A pair of reinforced fish belly side sills with door tracks
• Door stops
• A pair of the correct 6' wide Youngstown 5/5/5 panel doors
• A pair of 8' plug doors with roller wheel sets for under the plug doors

Chad also sells pairs of 5/5/5 Youngstown panel doors for the NP Brainerd Built cars that use an Accurail model as a base.

Stencils and Component Parts

In general, the PS-1 car shops had a few unique component parts and stencils, as did the Brainerd Shops cars. These are described below.

NP Stencils, Differences and Similarities
The most notable differences in stenciling between the two builders were the car builder name stencil, located on the right side of the car above the wheels, and the "nailable floor" stencil found on the PS-1 cars. Similarities in stencils between the two builders included the very large "stepped" NP initials on the left side panel between the car end and plug door; the very large eight-foot-diameter red/white/black "Northern Pacific Railway" herald on the right side panel; the "Route of the Vista-Dome North Coast Limited" slogan on the right side panel between the sliding door and herald; the location of the car numbers and car data; stencils on and below the plug and sliding doors; and the stencils on the car ends.

NP Component Parts, Differences and Similarities
PS-1 Car Components: The PS-1 built cars were numbered in the #3000–3399 series and had their own distinct PS component parts. Builders' photos show these cars as having 10 panel-welded sides, Pullman-Standard ends, a standard Pullman-Standard "bow-tie" roof, and Pullman-Standard seven rung ladders on the car sides. PS ladders on the "A" and "B" ends were PS-1 seven-rung ladders that flared out at the base, from the bottom along the inside stile up to the third rung. Five features common to both series were the reinforced fish belly side sills, the 8' plug doors, the 6' Youngstown corrugated 5/5/5 panel doors, the left car side grabs extended out beyond the car end, and the A.S.F. A-3 Ride Control Trucks.

NP Brainerd Shop Built Car Components: The NP combo door cars built at the Brainerd Shops were in the #8000–9249 series. The Brainerd Shop cars had 10 panel-riveted sides and featured late improved dreadnaught 1/3/4 ends, diagonal panel overhang roofs, and 8-rung ladders on both the sides and ends. The Brainerd Built series also had the fish belly reinforced side sills, the 8' plug doors, the 6' Youngstown corrugated 5/5/5 panel doors, the unusual car side grab iron position noted above, and the A-3 Ride Control Trucks.

Re-shopped Cars: The NP re-shopped some cars for repairs in1969, and in anticipation of the merger of the NP, GN and CB&Q, they also painted the cars BN green. These cars, regardless of their origin (PS-1 or Brainerd built), kept the same heralds and "stepped" NP initials as they had on the mineral-red cars. Differences appearing in the stencils included dropping the "Route of the Vista-Dome North Coast Limited" slogan and adding a redesigned data and reporting mark area. As far as I can tell, none of the component parts changed.

NP Combo Door Build Dates

NP Combo Door Car Diagrams indicate these build dates for the different series cars:
• PS-1 Series #3000–3399, 1959–1960, built by Pullman-Standard
• NPRY Co. Series #8000–8449, 1958, built by NP Brainerd Shops
• NPRY Co. Series #8450–8849, 1959–1960, built by NP Brainerd Shops
• NPRY Co. Series #8850–9249, 1960, built by NP Brainerd Shops
• NPRY Co. Series #9150–9200, 1960, built by NP Brainerd Shops
NP Combo Door Re-paints
The new reporting marks, data positioning, and location on the cars repainted by the Brainerd Shops in 1969 would within a few years match the BN 40' box car standard. Check individual photos for verification of cars that were repainted and stenciled. Known photos of BN Green cars from each series can be found online at www.rrrpicturearchives.net or www.rr-fallenflags.org for car NP #3345 and in Todd Sullivan's book NP Color Guide to Freight and Passenger Equipment for car NP #8130. There is another more obscure photo for NP #3055 in the NP TellTale Collection-JP3-149.tif. This photo shows the car in green with reweigh data, ladders cut down and roof walk removed.
Combination Door Car Project References
There is more prototype and modeling information in Matt Sugerman's blog regarding building NP #8000-9249 series cars: http://www.idahospanhandlerailroad.blogspot.com/2012/03/necessary-freight-cars-for-camas.html.

Happy modeling!
Dave Sarther

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Glow <jerryglow@...> wrote:

At the suggestion of the guy I was working with, I've done the NP
combo-door car decals individually as Brainerd or P-S built as well as
the later repaint so be sure to specify when ordering. As usual please
keep inquiries OFF LIST

--
Jerry Glow
The Villages FL
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals/


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: How to "model the prototype" - in terms of Ops?

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Jim Betz wrote:
"None of the above should be read as indicatinng a preference for
one type of operation over another. Rule #1 applies!
Well, the famous "Rule #1" may not really apply to the folks on
this list. Here's a relevant quote from Tony Koester:

". . . keep foremost in mind the simple fact that you do not have a
free hand here. You cannot hide behind the oft-heard mantra that “It’s
my railroad, and I can do anything I want!” No, you can’t – not if
your goal is to convince the viewer, not to mention yourself, that
you’ve done a credible job of depicting a specific place and time."

Tony K. has said elsewhere that model RAILROADING differs from
building interesting models of railroad equipment, just as it differs
from running trains in circles. The challenge that interests many of
us is to reproduce prototype RAILROADING, not just prototype model
freight cars.
Our topic on this list is indeed the freight car part of
depicting the prototype, but it's good to keep in mind the broader
picture too.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: How to "model the prototype" - in terms of Ops?

Mikebrock
 

Jim Betz writes:

"If you are setting out to build a layout for Ops..."

Just this one sentence disqualifies me from responding...although I'm guessing that probably only Jim and I are carrying on with this discussion. And, as a matter of fact, the premise even disqualifies it for discussion on the STMFC. The point is, on the STMFC, the only aspect of layout ops is its association with the frt car/train ops on a real RR. Hence, for the STMFC [ as opposed to the OpSIG ], I think you have the caboose ahead of the engine. IOW, for the STMFC, layout builders should be setting out to determine how to simulate the actual operation on a layout they have built which models a real RR. In fact, the ops should emulate that of the real RR at the place where the model emulates the real RR. If operators are bored or unhappy because they don't get to run a way frt [ for example ] or run a hump yard [ another example ], tough.

"If you build a layout for the mainline running - you are unlikely
to have the ability to also do a lot of industry switching. And
vice versa."

I don't see why. Having watched a really nice video of the B&O in northern Ohio, there was a great deal of fast moving frt trains...and local switching in the small towns through which the RR ran.

"None of the above should be read as indicatinng a preference
for one type of operation over another. Rule #1 applies! What
I'm saying is "don't be the layout owner who builds Sherman Hill
to find out that you, or your crew, really wanted you to do
the industries that feed Sherman" ..."

Well, certainly I would think that the layout builder should study the real RR during design and realize what the modeled part of the RR does and doesn't do.

Mike Brock


Re: Scalecoat paint

PennsyNut <pennsynut@...>
 

On 5,04 2012 18:55 PM, armprem2 wrote:

Thank you Pierre,.Armand Premo----- Original Message -----
From: Pierre
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 7:36 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Scalecoat paint

Armand,
I believe that Accupaint is now marketed as Trucolor.
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>,
"armprem2" <armprem2@...> wrote:

Accupaint? Where does one find it?Armand Premo
FYI I had used Accupaint to paint my PRR locos "Brunswick Green" until I
learned that even that color was not correct. I switched to using
others. But I also only painted by brush. And Accupaint was good for
that, leaving no brush marks. Since I have never sprayed, I can not say
what good Accupaint is for that. Also, after painting, I sprayed with a
spray can, Dull Cote. That seemed to protect the loco from handling and
the color stayed on fairly well. This is/was years ago. Not sure what
Trucolor will be like.
May I ask? Give it a try and let us all know how it turns out.
Morgan Bilbo Ferroequinologist SPF PRRTHS #1204


Re: Scalecoat paint

Armand Premo
 

Thank you Pierre,.Armand Premo----- Original Message -----
From: Pierre
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 7:36 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Scalecoat paint



Armand,
I believe that Accupaint is now marketed as Trucolor.
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "armprem2" <armprem2@...> wrote:
>
> Accupaint? Where does one find it?Armand Premo
> ----- Original Message -----
>


Re: Scalecoat paint

Pierre <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Armand,
I believe that Accupaint is now marketed as Trucolor.
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "armprem2" <armprem2@...> wrote:

Accupaint? Where does one find it?Armand Premo
----- Original Message -----


Re: Scalecoat paint

Andy Harman
 

At 03:17 PM 4/5/2012 -0400, you wrote:
I also prefer Scalecoat because it dries glossy. If I do use Floquil,
I go through two steps: first the Floquil flat, and after it has dried
for a day or two, then a coat of gloss for decals.
When I painted almost exclusively with Floquil, I often would decal right onto the flat surface. Using Solvaset I usually got away with it too. I eventually went with the Microscale system using their gloss and flat, but stopped using their flat when they stopped producing that wonderful amber/benzene stuff in the late 70s. I now use Scalecoat for pretty much everything, and I have an ever-changing mix of Testors dull+gloss that I use for a final finish or a base for weathering.

Andy


Re: Scalecoat paint

Andy Harman
 

At 06:51 PM 4/5/2012 +0000, you wrote:
I too am a big fan of Scalecoat paint. It is my preferred paint to use. It covers well and has never let me down.
Last night I supervised my wife painting a resin tank car white - with Scalecoat II. It's only the second thing she has ever airbrushed, model-wise. Didn't have to worry too much about coverage since the resin itself is off-white, just a few gray parts and etchings to deal with. Once she got a feel for it, she did fine. She has mainly painted things with spray cans, so I had to convince her she could get closer safely. Her prior airbrushing experience was T-shirts and cakes which is a whole different thing than laying down a solid color onto many nooks and crannies.

The only time I ever botched a paint job with Scalecoat was when I accidentally thinned it with Floquil airbrush thinner. That was not a good thing. I use generic thinner for clean-up, but for thinning paint I always use the brand that matches the paint. It's a lot more expensive but not exactly a major expense. I just emptied a quart can of Scalecoat II thinner last night. I bought a new can to replace it because it was getting low.. 8 years ago. In terms of my total modeling budget, brand name paint thinner has to be in the bottom 1% of expenditure.

Andy


Re: Scalecoat paint

Andy Harman
 

At 10:41 AM 4/5/2012 -0400, you wrote:
But for me I will stick to Scalecoat. It just works! I have goofed that the
last bottle of Scalecoat will be pried from my cold dead hands!
I will use Scalecoat every time as long as the color is available. I was an exclusive Floquil guy for many years, but gradually changed over. The problem I have now with Floquil is that they have changed all of the colors drastically. Roof brown for instance, is now more gray than brown and there is no equivalent dark rusty brown anymore. Fortunately one LHS *gave* me three old bottles of "real" roof brown, they didn't charge me because it was 15 year old stock and they weren't sure if it was still usable... it is. And grimy black, which used to be a great and unique color with a slight yellow/green tinge and a twinkle is now just another shade of dark gray. I have the old bottles around to prove it.

I also think they did something to their caboose red, which used to be bright red but is now much darker and duller. But that happened in the 80s, before current ownership and all of the other mangling of the colors.

Andy


Re: Scalecoat paint

Armand Premo
 

Accupaint? Where does one find it?Armand Premo

----- Original Message -----
From: timboconnor@comcast.net
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 2:32 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Scalecoat paint




Scalecoat is best for brass, but I agree with Tony about the mix. I add
Crystal Coat to Floquil when I'm not using it for weathering -- less than
10% I think. And I add a few drops of retarder just to help with flow. Also I
never pour Floquil back in the bottle, nor Scalecoat, nor acrylics.
Accupaint is the only totally forgiving paint in this regard.

Tim O'Connor

----- Original Message -----
From: "Anthony Thompson" <thompson@signaturepress.com>

> For over 20 years I have used Scalecoat for the car color and
> Floquil weathering. I lost track of how many models I have painted
> - 99% of which were brass - but it is well over 500. Yesterday I
> started painting some O Scale boxcars in Floquil . . . I mixed 2
> bottles of paint in with 1 bottle of high gloss.

Bill, I would NEVER use anywhere near this much gloss. It's
just diluting the paint. No wonder you had problems. The simplest
approach would have been to just spray the Floquil as normal, and add
a very light coat of gloss (with the airbrush). If you want one coat,
I would not add more than 10 percent gloss, probably less. Lots of us
have used Floquil with considerable success for as many years as you
have used Scalecoat. But you have to use it in a way that will work.

Tony Thompson

84601 - 84620 of 192789