Date   

Re: Resin kit wanted: Westerfield ATSF SK-L,N,P

Steve Stull
 

--- On Wed, 5/2/12, tyesac@aol.com <tyesac@aol.com> wrote:


Hopefully the new owner would consider reissuing these.

Tom Casey

I for one would be greatly appreciative if that came to pass. Purchased 2 when they were released, but would like to get my hands on several more.

Since they were marketed as limited run anniversary special, I wonder if there may be a constraint in the purchase contract which would not allow another run?

Steve Stull


Re: Modeling truss rods

Nelson Moyer <ku0a@...>
 

I used Tichy phosphor bronze wire for the first truss rod car I built, and I
came to regret it. We experience temperature extremes in Iowa that caused
enough expansion and contraction to bow the wires between glue points at the
floor and on the queen posts. Once the wires are distorted, they really
can't be fixed short of completely replacing them. Never again.



Monofilament has its own problems, and I find that the monofilament line in
kits is so large in diameter that it's impossible to get a sharp bend at the
queen posts - I get a curve instead of a bend. I use finer line to minimize
that problem.



Nelson Moyer

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
al_brown03
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 9:21 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Modeling truss rods





Mm ... truss rods are under tension. Therefore, they're taut. I have trouble
getting monofilament to stay taut; this may be my fault, but therefore I
prefer wire. Since one wants stiffness, I prefer phosphor bronze wire to
brass for use in truss rods.

YMMV --

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> , "Joe Bower"
<jnbower1@...> wrote:

Group: Guess what! I just found this message in my "never sent Drafts
folder". I recall the subject was pretty thoroughly covered, but
nevertheless, for what it may be worth, here are my thoughts on the
subject.
Joe Bower



Group: I have built many H.O. Scale wood, resin, and scratch-built styrene
old time freight cars using mono-filament, and basically as described by
O.Fenton Wells method #2 (1-29-'11 email). I prefer mono-filament since it
won't be bent out of shape as frequently occurs with wire truss rods.



I mask the turnbuckles so the unpainted mono-filament appears to be open
in
the center of the turnbuckle. I use one length of mono-filament, lacing it
down thru the first outboard hole in the floor, sliding on a turn buckle,
temporarily passing the filament over the needle beams, (NOT over the
queen
posts), then up thru the floor. Repeat lacing back and forth for each
additional truss rod. Since both ends of the filament are still free, it
is
easy to uniformly adjust the truss rods to eliminate any slack, but still
not lifted onto the queen posts. Weave the two ends of the filament
spirally
around each other across the floor, and temporarily lift the truss rods
onto
the queen posts to check for the desired final tension, release back down
to
the needle beam position. Tie off each end with an overhand knot at the
outboard edges. Secure with ACC or Goo. Clip off the excess lengths.



Very Important: For Box, Reefer and Gondola Cars proceed next to install
the
Sides and Ends before lifting the truss rods onto the queen posts to
prevent
humping up the car floor. Since Flat Cars have no Sides to stiffen the
floor, be very careful with the amount of final tension of the rods when
lifted onto the Queen Posts to prevent humping up the floor.



Joe Bower

.





Re: Modeling truss rods

al_brown03
 

Mm ... truss rods are under tension. Therefore, they're taut. I have trouble getting monofilament to stay taut; this may be my fault, but therefore I prefer wire. Since one wants stiffness, I prefer phosphor bronze wire to brass for use in truss rods.

YMMV --

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Bower" <jnbower1@...> wrote:

Group: Guess what! I just found this message in my "never sent Drafts
folder". I recall the subject was pretty thoroughly covered, but
nevertheless, for what it may be worth, here are my thoughts on the subject.
Joe Bower



Group: I have built many H.O. Scale wood, resin, and scratch-built styrene
old time freight cars using mono-filament, and basically as described by
O.Fenton Wells method #2 (1-29-'11 email). I prefer mono-filament since it
won't be bent out of shape as frequently occurs with wire truss rods.



I mask the turnbuckles so the unpainted mono-filament appears to be open in
the center of the turnbuckle. I use one length of mono-filament, lacing it
down thru the first outboard hole in the floor, sliding on a turn buckle,
temporarily passing the filament over the needle beams, (NOT over the queen
posts), then up thru the floor. Repeat lacing back and forth for each
additional truss rod. Since both ends of the filament are still free, it is
easy to uniformly adjust the truss rods to eliminate any slack, but still
not lifted onto the queen posts. Weave the two ends of the filament spirally
around each other across the floor, and temporarily lift the truss rods onto
the queen posts to check for the desired final tension, release back down to
the needle beam position. Tie off each end with an overhand knot at the
outboard edges. Secure with ACC or Goo. Clip off the excess lengths.



Very Important: For Box, Reefer and Gondola Cars proceed next to install the
Sides and Ends before lifting the truss rods onto the queen posts to prevent
humping up the car floor. Since Flat Cars have no Sides to stiffen the
floor, be very careful with the amount of final tension of the rods when
lifted onto the Queen Posts to prevent humping up the floor.



Joe Bower

.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Modeling truss rods

Joe Bower <jnbower1@...>
 

Group: Guess what! I just found this message in my "never sent Drafts
folder". I recall the subject was pretty thoroughly covered, but
nevertheless, for what it may be worth, here are my thoughts on the subject.
Joe Bower



Group: I have built many H.O. Scale wood, resin, and scratch-built styrene
old time freight cars using mono-filament, and basically as described by
O.Fenton Wells method #2 (1-29-'11 email). I prefer mono-filament since it
won't be bent out of shape as frequently occurs with wire truss rods.



I mask the turnbuckles so the unpainted mono-filament appears to be open in
the center of the turnbuckle. I use one length of mono-filament, lacing it
down thru the first outboard hole in the floor, sliding on a turn buckle,
temporarily passing the filament over the needle beams, (NOT over the queen
posts), then up thru the floor. Repeat lacing back and forth for each
additional truss rod. Since both ends of the filament are still free, it is
easy to uniformly adjust the truss rods to eliminate any slack, but still
not lifted onto the queen posts. Weave the two ends of the filament spirally
around each other across the floor, and temporarily lift the truss rods onto
the queen posts to check for the desired final tension, release back down to
the needle beam position. Tie off each end with an overhand knot at the
outboard edges. Secure with ACC or Goo. Clip off the excess lengths.



Very Important: For Box, Reefer and Gondola Cars proceed next to install the
Sides and Ends before lifting the truss rods onto the queen posts to prevent
humping up the car floor. Since Flat Cars have no Sides to stiffen the
floor, be very careful with the amount of final tension of the rods when
lifted onto the Queen Posts to prevent humping up the floor.



Joe Bower

.


Re: Sunshine's Business Practices

Al and Patricia Westerfield <westerfield@...>
 

Our policy was that the customer is always right. The only kits we did not fully support were those made from the old polyester resin (which were at least 25 years old) and even those we supported until we went into semi-retirement. We offered to replace the complete castings with urethane castings at cost. - Al Westerfield

From: John Hagen
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 10:08 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Sunshine's Business Practices


Tom and group.

Certainly Martin can have any policy he wants. But to not support his own
product seems counterproductive to me. Now that is just my opinion which
could be very incorrect in your opinion.

I understand the lack of desire to support those who buy a kit from an
outside source. But then, as stated, reselling of resin kits (or any kit or
RTR for that matter) is a rather common practice. My thought is if someone
buys an unbuilt kit that I produced and sold to someone at one point, I
would try to b e very helpful to anyone willing to purchase any missing
parts. The guy wasn't asking for free decals, just decals. What if the kit
had the decals and the modeler damaged one when installing them? A customer
is a valued thing in this day and age. Someone who buys a kit from whoever
and enjoys building it into a satisfactory model will be a very potential
customer for more kits that he/she would order direct from me. I gotta tell
you that if it was me that bought that kit it would be the last I'd buy.
Unless, maybe, if I needed a certain kit and Sunshine was the only game in
town. Even then I'd reassess my need for that particular model.

Yep, he can run his business any way he pleases and I can buy from anyone I
please.

John Hagen

From: mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
pullmanboss
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 9:48 AM
To: mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: ADMIN: Spam and Manufacturer's Business Practices

This is a sticky issue because a large percentage of all resin kits end up
changing hands before they are built. (If they ever are!) And there's no way
Martin can track even his own sales at RPM meets and shows. But that doesn't
mean he can't have a policy of only supporting the original purchaser. It's
one thing to ask for a replacement if you bought the kit from Martin, but if
it was a private transaction you should assume someone else has unwrapped
and repackaged the kit, so it's buyer beware.

Tom Madden







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Burbon?

midrly <midrly@...>
 

I wonder how much Newcastle Brown Ale was carried in steam era reefers!

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Brock" <brockm@...> wrote:

Fenton Wells writes:

"Around 100 if you count F&C, Westerfield and
Speedwitch. I may need counselling.....or more bourbon.
The STMFC is under no obligation to supply you with burbon...regardless of
where it is purchased...although certain unnamed members who regularly
attend Prototype Rails can guide you to places in Cocoa Beach where you can
acquire various beers. And, while Prototype Rails will likewise not supply
you with burbon, it is rumored that another unnamed party...who seems to be
associated with photos...has appeared from time to time...with something
similar to burbon. Furthermore, a well know STMFC member is rumored to make
his own...beer...and one of the highlights of Prototype Rails is the beer
tasting clinic [ unofficial of course ] performed by Bruc...uh...the member.

Mike Brock


Re: Decal problems

John Hagen <sprinthag@...>
 

Andy has good advice there. Using Microscale Decal Film before applying will
help to strengthen any decal, old or new.



A similar problem hit for all the aftermarket printers, Alps and others
about a year or so ago. The supply of the decal paper (the blue backing, not
the film which is applied by the company marketing the paper) was bad. There
is very few makers of this specialized paper. A major supplier to the U.S.
(located in England from what I have been told) had a bad run. Even though
the coating/film would be properly applied the backing would not allow it to
release. The stuff came off in many tiny pieces. Applying Microsoft Decal
Film did not help. Nor would other overcoats. They would maybe make the
pieces bigger but... I did get some of it myself but the number of printers
complaining about it on the various Alps and decal printing groups confirmed
this to be a wild spread problem. Nor was age a factor as I bought it,
printed it and my customers used most of it within a month. Now maybe the
bare paper was old when imported but supposedly it was not. No sense telling
who I got my paper from as it was from two of the three vendors I use and it
had nothing to do with them anyway. Stuff on the market now is fine.



John Hagen



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andy
Harman
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 2:24 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Re: ADMIN: Spam and Manufacturer's Business Practices





At 11:50 AM 5/2/2012 -0500, you wrote:
Whenever possible, I now use Microscale decals even with resin kits that
provide their own decals. I have had a decal failure with Martin's once and
was unable to secure a replacement.
I coat all my decals with Microscale Decal Film before I start
cutting. I've been doing this habitually with MS decals since the 1980s
when they made the decal film product available. Any decal that comes from
an ALPS or is suspected of coming from an ALPS gets the treatment, and any
Microscale decals more than a few years old (which is virtually all of my
stash) also get the treatment. Nothing sux like dipping a logo decal you
only have one set of into the water and watching it break into 200 pieces
and float away, so everybody gets the film restorer first.

Microscale had a huge run of decals from the late 1970s that didn't have
enough film base on them - the LHS had a massive stack of returns. MS
never acknowledged the problem and blamed "user error" at the time, but the
LHS did replace the decals for me (not sure if MS took them back or
not). The decal film/restorer appeared on the market shortly after
:-) There's no doubt I still have decals from that period in my stash, IMO
guaranteed to fall apart if untreated.

Andy


Re: ADMIN: Spam and Manufacturer's Business Practices

Andy Harman
 

At 11:50 AM 5/2/2012 -0500, you wrote:
Whenever possible, I now use Microscale decals even with resin kits that
provide their own decals. I have had a decal failure with Martin's once and
was unable to secure a replacement.
I coat all my decals with Microscale Decal Film before I start cutting. I've been doing this habitually with MS decals since the 1980s when they made the decal film product available. Any decal that comes from an ALPS or is suspected of coming from an ALPS gets the treatment, and any Microscale decals more than a few years old (which is virtually all of my stash) also get the treatment. Nothing sux like dipping a logo decal you only have one set of into the water and watching it break into 200 pieces and float away, so everybody gets the film restorer first.

Microscale had a huge run of decals from the late 1970s that didn't have enough film base on them - the LHS had a massive stack of returns. MS never acknowledged the problem and blamed "user error" at the time, but the LHS did replace the decals for me (not sure if MS took them back or not). The decal film/restorer appeared on the market shortly after :-) There's no doubt I still have decals from that period in my stash, IMO guaranteed to fall apart if untreated.

Andy


Re: Resin kit wanted: Westerfield ATSF SK-L,N,P

tyesac@...
 

Steve,

I know exactly what you mean. I have three that are about 90% complete, and also would buy more if they were available. One went through Ebay a few months ago and the final price was pretty high.

Hopefully the new owner would consider reissuing these.

Tom Casey


With all of this talk about folks having more kits than they will ever
build, I thought I would ask if anyone has a Westerfield kit for the ATSF
SK-L, N, or P stock cars that they would like to get rid of to free up shelf
space. I have built two of them but would like a couple more. I've built 16
stock cars since July, so I'm on a roll. Please contact me off list if you
have one to spare.

______________________________________________

J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Sandifer <steve.sandifer@sbcglobal.net>
To: STMFC <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wed, May 2, 2012 12:50 pm
Subject: [STMFC] Resin kit wanted: Westerfield ATSF SK-L,N,P




With all of this talk about folks having more kits than they will ever
build, I thought I would ask if anyone has a Westerfield kit for the ATSF
SK-L, N, or P stock cars that they would like to get rid of to free up shelf
space. I have built two of them but would like a couple more. I've built 16
stock cars since July, so I'm on a roll. Please contact me off list if you
have one to spare.

______________________________________________

J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer

mailto:steve.sandifer@sbcglobal.net

Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918

Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX
77025, 713-667-9417

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Freight Car Repair Budget Decline on the Great Northern in 1934

gary laakso
 

Great Northern filed an application with the Interstate Commerce Commission to approve a 4% loan from the Federal Emergency Administration for $5,125,985 in March, 1934. The application included $669,495 for freight car equipment repairs (inflation adjusted its $11,460,955).

The application noted that GN had spent annually 1922-29 $6,455,759 for freight car repairs and only $2,985,017. This 46% reduction in freight car expenditures came on a freight car mileage decline of only 13%.

Obviously, the loan would not make up for the years of declining maintenance but it does provide a strong basis for GN's huge purchases of double sheathed boxcars starting in 1937. I may need to weather my Westerfield and F& C truss rod boxcars more!

gary laakso
south of Mike Brock


Burbon?

Mikebrock
 

Fenton Wells writes:

"Around 100 if you count F&C, Westerfield and
Speedwitch. I may need counselling.....or more bourbon.
The STMFC is under no obligation to supply you with burbon...regardless of where it is purchased...although certain unnamed members who regularly attend Prototype Rails can guide you to places in Cocoa Beach where you can acquire various beers. And, while Prototype Rails will likewise not supply you with burbon, it is rumored that another unnamed party...who seems to be associated with photos...has appeared from time to time...with something similar to burbon. Furthermore, a well know STMFC member is rumored to make his own...beer...and one of the highlights of Prototype Rails is the beer tasting clinic [ unofficial of course ] performed by Bruc...uh...the member.

Mike Brock


Re: Resin kit wanted: Westerfield ATSF SK-L,N,P

Joseph
 

Any fingerprints left? you probably could make another kit with all of that resin dust.....
joe binish

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sandifer" <steve.sandifer@sbcglobal.net>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 11:25 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Resin kit wanted: Westerfield ATSF SK-L,N,P


With all of this talk about folks having more kits than they will ever
build, I thought I would ask if anyone has a Westerfield kit for the ATSF
SK-L, N, or P stock cars that they would like to get rid of to free up shelf
space. I have built two of them but would like a couple more. I've built 16
stock cars since July, so I'm on a roll. Please contact me off list if you
have one to spare.



______________________________________________

J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer

mailto:steve.sandifer@sbcglobal.net

Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918

Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX
77025, 713-667-9417










------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: ADMIN: Spam and Manufacturer's Business Practices

Nelson Moyer <ku0a@...>
 

Sunshine replacement policy seems to have changed, because I was given a kit
as a gift a couple of years ago, opened it about a year later, found that
the top edge of one box car side was distorted, returned it for a
replacement with payment, and was eventually sent a replacement side. I
built the car and ruined one of the decals, sent a request for replacement
with payment, and was sent a replacement decal sheet. Decal replacement was
less than a year ago. Maybe two orders totaling fifty cars in the past two
years helped my chances?



Nelson Moyer

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Brock
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 11:04 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: ADMIN: Spam and Manufacturer's Business Practices





Tom Madden writes:

"It's one thing to ask for a replacement if you bought the kit from Martin,
but if it was a private transaction you should assume someone else has
unwrapped and repackaged the kit, so it's buyer beware."

Well, that's a valid assumption...although I did purchase from Pittsburgh
Scale Models a model of a UP flat car...only to find a C&O decal inside...no

UP one. Yes, I did get a UP decal replacement. Nevertheless, I don't think
it's a case of buyer beware. I mean, it's always that case, isn't it? I
mean, if Sunshine had replied that they had no decal replacements, no
problem. I am actually surprised that they did have replacements...although
not for the complainer. And, that is the problem.

Tim O'Connor says:

"For example, decals are not
made "on demand" -- He produces a batch of them based on his estimated
lifetime
sales of the model, perhaps with a little extra. When he finally
discontinues the kit
(most kits have a steep drop-off in sales after the first year of
production) then if has
parts or decals left over, he brings them to the many RPM meets he attends."

If the issue was that Sunshine could not maintain parts including decals for

any reason...fine, the complainer would have no problem in that case.
However, there was no mention of this situation in the reply. Indeed, the
reply indicated that Sunshine WOULD supply decals to an original buyer. Mind

you, the complainer attempted to purchase the decal.

MIke Brock
STMFC Owner


Decals; was [RE: Re: ADMIN: Spam and Manufacturer's Business Practices]

John Hagen <sprinthag@...>
 

Andy, the last Alps printers were sold in May of 2000. Not quite fifteen
years ago. And supplies will be produced through May of 2015.



There are printers capable of printing white available as inkjets, lasers
and thermo transfer but, as stated, too much money for anyone not in the
printing business full time. And the thermo transfer units don't generally
have the capability of printing anything but tractor drive paper.



The idea of charging $10.00 for a decal set (much more than I generally see
them BTW) isn't all that much if you knew the cost of white inks/toners. For
an Alps it's close to double (maybe more nowadays) than your other colors
and you gets maybe a third as much! The other thing is there is no reduction
in price for volume printing using an Alps. One sheet or two hundred, the
cost per sheet is the same. The only item that can be spread over several
sets is the artwork, something most Alps decal printers seldom charge for
anyway, at least for rr decals. Believe me at $10.00 for 5.5 X 8.5 or 6 X 9,
these guys are getting very little in the way of profit. I've been doing
this on a small scale since around 1999 and my newest printer coast me
$1100.00 + including shipping in February 2000.



For the immediate future there will be decals printed in small quantity but
high quality (controlled more by artwork than printer) from Alps guys, But
the end is approaching.



John Hagen



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andy
Harman
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 11:38 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: ADMIN: Spam and Manufacturer's Business Practices

At 04:20 PM 5/2/2012 +0000, you wrote:

<<SNIP>>


Really though the topic this always leads to is how to make our own
decals. I have made a few myself on my old HP laser printer when I could
use black printing on a clear background, but most often freight car
lettering - especially steam era - is white. How long has it been since
you could buy a new ALPS printer, 15 years? There is no viable replacement
that is affordable for the average consumer. And apparently there is no
demand for a printer that will shoot white ink on the average market, since
it's not necessary for photo printing.

That's why guys like Mark Vaughn and Dan Kohlberg can ask and get 10 bucks
for a decal sheet... it's worth it due to the time and effort to do the art
work as well as either maintain an obsolete piece of hardware or jobbing
out to a commercial printer. And how many commercial printers are there
making model RR decals right now, under their own name or for third
parties? Microscale, Rail Graphics... besides those two, most other decal
brands are either using those two as suppliers or home printing on an aging
ALPS.

I really hoped that by now there would be another option. If I could
invest a few hundred bucks in a white-capable printer, I'd probably be
laying out the fine print stuff for all my freight cars every time, down to
the individual car numbers. I could precisely match a prototype photo, or
in the case of chalk marks or hastily applied patch jobs, even use the
prototype photo as the art base. The modern guys do this with graffiti,
thankfully something I have no need for - but if I could take a scanned
photo and normalize reporting marks and cap data, and then print a decal,
I'd do that in a heartbeat over snipping and clipping from 5 different
decal sheets from 3 different manufacturers to get only an approximation.

Andy


Re: ADMIN: Spam and Manufacturer's Business Practices

Mikebrock
 

Tim O'Connor writes:

"But in your example where you bought kit X.1 and you really wanted the lettering from X.2 -- and I have been in that situation -- Martin does not feel any obligation to provide decal #2 if he
doesn't have a spare one on hand, and that seems perfectly fair to me."

Your example is not what I attempted to describe in my encounter with Pittsburgh Scale Models. In that case, I bought a kit [ BTW, it contains a 24...repeat, 24...pg instruction booklet...worth the cost of the kit ] for a UP flat car [ so lettered on the box ] only to find a C&O decal inside...no UP decal. And, make no mistake, Pittsburgh Scale Models [ Byron Rose ] DID send me a replacement...at no cost. My example was to show that mistakes happen...even by someone as meticulous as Byron...and usually the best remedy is to correct it...if possible.

Your statement:

"Martin does not feel any obligation to provide decal #2 if he
doesn't have a spare one on hand, and that seems perfectly fair to me."

Seems perfectly fair to me, too. The trouble is, that is not what happened. Sunshine responded that they do not provide replacement decals to after market purchases. Regardless. The number of spares and/or the attempt at payment did not enter into the response from Sunshine.

To be clear on this. If Sunshine wishes to not support the after market purchaser, that is their business and they deserve the freedom to do that. STMFC management's position is not to make a judgement on that but, rather, to warn its members that Sunshine DOES have such a policy AND it does not indicate that in the warranty noice in their kit. In fact, the warranty gives the impression that it travels with the kit...which it does...at least physically. BTW, some other resin manufacturers DO warrant their kits regardless of how the purchase is made...as long as they have the spares.

Mike Brock
STMFC Owner


Re: ADMIN: Spam and Manufacturer's Business Practices

Steve SANDIFER
 

Whenever possible, I now use Microscale decals even with resin kits that
provide their own decals. I have had a decal failure with Martin's once and
was unable to secure a replacement. That is when you discover that the size
and weight of lettering in one manufacturer's decals do not match those of
other manufacturers, making it difficult to mix and match. I know I can get
Microscale replacements in a week or two and that one of their sheets will
allow me to do a lot of substituting if necessary - though I have not had
any problems using Microscale. However, not all Microscale sheets are
complete or correct.



______________________________________________

J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer

mailto:steve.sandifer@sbcglobal.net

Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918

Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX
77025, 713-667-9417



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andy
Harman
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 11:38 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: ADMIN: Spam and Manufacturer's Business Practices





At 04:20 PM 5/2/2012 +0000, you wrote:

What do y'all do when Martin's kit decals are not accurate?
The same thing I do when I encounter any incomplete or inaccurate decals...
improvise. One thing I'm running into is rebuildings which change
capacities and I'm finding NO decals with the correct labeling. I can
start cutting up the 2mm high numbers and poking and prodding them into
place - assuming they're even the correct font and size - or just pick
something close and maybe not do such a good job photographing it just in
case Tim O'Connor wants to read my reweigh and capy data.

Really though the topic this always leads to is how to make our own
decals. I have made a few myself on my old HP laser printer when I could
use black printing on a clear background, but most often freight car
lettering - especially steam era - is white. How long has it been since
you could buy a new ALPS printer, 15 years? There is no viable replacement
that is affordable for the average consumer. And apparently there is no
demand for a printer that will shoot white ink on the average market, since
it's not necessary for photo printing.

That's why guys like Mark Vaughn and Dan Kohlberg can ask and get 10 bucks
for a decal sheet... it's worth it due to the time and effort to do the art
work as well as either maintain an obsolete piece of hardware or jobbing
out to a commercial printer. And how many commercial printers are there
making model RR decals right now, under their own name or for third
parties? Microscale, Rail Graphics... besides those two, most other decal
brands are either using those two as suppliers or home printing on an aging
ALPS.

I really hoped that by now there would be another option. If I could
invest a few hundred bucks in a white-capable printer, I'd probably be
laying out the fine print stuff for all my freight cars every time, down to
the individual car numbers. I could precisely match a prototype photo, or
in the case of chalk marks or hastily applied patch jobs, even use the
prototype photo as the art base. The modern guys do this with graffiti,
thankfully something I have no need for - but if I could take a scanned
photo and normalize reporting marks and cap data, and then print a decal,
I'd do that in a heartbeat over snipping and clipping from 5 different
decal sheets from 3 different manufacturers to get only an approximation.

Andy


Re: ADMIN: Spam and Manufacturer's Business Practices

Andy Harman
 

At 04:20 PM 5/2/2012 +0000, you wrote:

What do y'all do when Martin's kit decals are not accurate?
The same thing I do when I encounter any incomplete or inaccurate decals... improvise. One thing I'm running into is rebuildings which change capacities and I'm finding NO decals with the correct labeling. I can start cutting up the 2mm high numbers and poking and prodding them into place - assuming they're even the correct font and size - or just pick something close and maybe not do such a good job photographing it just in case Tim O'Connor wants to read my reweigh and capy data.

Really though the topic this always leads to is how to make our own decals. I have made a few myself on my old HP laser printer when I could use black printing on a clear background, but most often freight car lettering - especially steam era - is white. How long has it been since you could buy a new ALPS printer, 15 years? There is no viable replacement that is affordable for the average consumer. And apparently there is no demand for a printer that will shoot white ink on the average market, since it's not necessary for photo printing.

That's why guys like Mark Vaughn and Dan Kohlberg can ask and get 10 bucks for a decal sheet... it's worth it due to the time and effort to do the art work as well as either maintain an obsolete piece of hardware or jobbing out to a commercial printer. And how many commercial printers are there making model RR decals right now, under their own name or for third parties? Microscale, Rail Graphics... besides those two, most other decal brands are either using those two as suppliers or home printing on an aging ALPS.

I really hoped that by now there would be another option. If I could invest a few hundred bucks in a white-capable printer, I'd probably be laying out the fine print stuff for all my freight cars every time, down to the individual car numbers. I could precisely match a prototype photo, or in the case of chalk marks or hastily applied patch jobs, even use the prototype photo as the art base. The modern guys do this with graffiti, thankfully something I have no need for - but if I could take a scanned photo and normalize reporting marks and cap data, and then print a decal, I'd do that in a heartbeat over snipping and clipping from 5 different decal sheets from 3 different manufacturers to get only an approximation.

Andy


Resin kit wanted: Westerfield ATSF SK-L,N,P

Steve SANDIFER
 

With all of this talk about folks having more kits than they will ever
build, I thought I would ask if anyone has a Westerfield kit for the ATSF
SK-L, N, or P stock cars that they would like to get rid of to free up shelf
space. I have built two of them but would like a couple more. I've built 16
stock cars since July, so I'm on a roll. Please contact me off list if you
have one to spare.



______________________________________________

J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer

mailto:steve.sandifer@sbcglobal.net

Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918

Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX
77025, 713-667-9417


Re: ADMIN: Spam and Manufacturer's Business Practices

Andy Harman
 

At 03:45 PM 5/2/2012 +0000, you wrote:
If you're just buying as a collector, then sell them unopened. Otherwise, check them when you buy them!
I never buy anything as a "collector" although sometimes they end up that way. Many Sunshine kits are out of my era, but I like them too much to part with them. As to whether they've been opened or not, I really don't know. I opened up the M-53 to photo it, and it looked as if it had never been unwrapped before but I have no way to be sure, so the only way I'm going to sell it is by opening it up and photographing all the parts so the buyer knows exactly what is there and what isn't.

Andy


Re: ADMIN: Spam and Manufacturer's Business Practices

Tim O'Connor
 

What do y'all do when Martin's kit decals are not accurate? I have encountered
this with many kits, particularly the PFE ice reefers. I didn't gripe to Martin, instead
I found replacements. (From Champ as it turns out.) For us truly fanatical RPM-ers
there is rarely a kit that is 'perfect'. The kits just shorten the time needed to build that
prototype replica.

Tim O'Connor

83961 - 83980 of 192624