Date   

Re: Interesting Waybill Sticker

Tim O'Connor
 

Maybe not as a single decal, but I think a whole sheet of stickers like this and many
others (e.g. FUMIGATED warning) would be great to have. I've used a lot of the placards
and signs in that set printed by Microscale based on R. Hendrickson's information. One
can always use more of this stuff! :-)

Tim

----- Original Message -----
From: jerryglow@...
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 11:34:05 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Interesting Waybill Sticker

I can't imagine much demand for them, but I'm going to make a decal like I have the tankcar placards.

Jerry Glow
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals/

--- In STMFC@..., "Charles Hostetler" <cesicjh@...> wrote:

I ran across this "Expedite" waybill sticker from the B&O in 1925:

http://cnwmodeling.blogspot.com/2012/05/interesting-waybill-sticker.html

It seemed to me that this might be an interesting variation to operations with prototype waybills, but I'm also wondering whether this practice was limited to a few railroads in the 1920s or whether it had more general application.

Regards,

Charles Hostetler


Re: reweighing

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Tim O'Connor wrote:
All of which raises a question -- If a car's truck or trucks were replaced (for whatever reason) was the railroad required to reweigh the car immediately? What about other car parts (e.g. replacing a coupler with a newer one?)
In 1953, the rule (Rule 11) said "Freight cars . . . when materially changed by repairs or alterations, should be immediately re- weighed and re-stenciled." Seems pretty clear to me.


Re: reweighing

Tim O'Connor
 

All of which raises a question -- If a car's truck or trucks were replaced (for
whatever reason) was the railroad required to reweigh the car immediately?
What about other car parts (e.g. replacing a coupler with a newer one?)

Tim O'Connor


New PRR models from F&C

Bill Welch
 

F&C shows two new PRR models on their website.

Bill Welch


Re: Southern Car & Foundry tank car kit questions

Bill Welch
 

Hum, the little bags that contain the photo etch fret and brass grab irons also has a pair of couplers in them.

Jon may need to deal with the changes at Kadee, especially with the two new tank car kits he is planning to release.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., cepropst@... wrote:

Their coupler pockets are design for a Kadee #78 couple. Which has been discontinued. Anyone know of any still available?

Clark Propst


Re: Southern Car & Foundry tank car kit questions

Andy Harman
 

At 10:55 AM 5/11/2012 -0700, you wrote:

Does the coupler pocket require the Kadee coupler draft gear? If so, you can
use a #178? If it only requires the coupler, you can use any Kadee centerset
shank semiscale coupler - the main difference between the #58 and #78 was the
draft gear.
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page78.htm - notice the different shape of the center and the coil spring. The SC&F and RYM resin kits have a molded coupler pocket with that type of setup for the coil spring. I am not sure if a 158 is a drop-in replacement or not. If not, I guess I need to go find more 78s pronto.

Andy


Re: Southern Car & Foundry tank car kit questions

Benjamin Hom
 

Clark Propst wrote:
"Their coupler pockets are design for a Kadee #78 coupler. Which has been
discontinued. Anyone know of any still available?"

Does the coupler pocket require the Kadee coupler draft gear?  If so, you can
use a #178?  If it only requires the coupler, you can use any Kadee centerset
shank semiscale coupler - the main difference between the #58 and #78 was the
draft gear.
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/coupler.htm#HO-Scale


Ben Hom


Re: Southern Car & Foundry tank car kit questions

Andy Harman
 

At 12:49 PM 5/11/2012 -0500, you wrote:
Clark, the #178 is the same box size as the #78, the coupler is one of the
whisker types. Would that fit?
Well crap. The 178 is just a 158 in the narrow box. The 78 had the coil centering spring like the old #4 and does seem to be gone. You would have to do some mods to the center stud of a coupler box designed for a 178 to take a 158.

Strange that the 78 has been dropped - it wasn't around that long. I bought some just a few weeks ago for an RYM car. Don't remember where though.

Andy


Re: Southern Car & Foundry tank car kit questions

Andy Harman
 

At 05:40 PM 5/11/2012 +0000, you wrote:
Their coupler pockets are design for a Kadee #78 couple. Which has been discontinued. Anyone know of any still available?
78 or 178? There is no 78 listed on their site, 178 is still available. Comes in its own draft gear which you will probably need to discard. I have some of the SC&F tank cars unbuilt of course.

Andy


Re: Southern Car & Foundry tank car kit questions

Joseph
 

Clark, the #178 is the same box size as the #78, the coupler is one of the whisker types. Would that fit?
joe binish

----- Original Message -----
From: <cepropst@q.com>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 12:40 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Southern Car & Foundry tank car kit questions


Their coupler pockets are design for a Kadee #78 couple. Which has been discontinued. Anyone know of any still available?

Clark Propst





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: Southern Car & Foundry tank car kit questions

Andy Harman
 

At 05:40 PM 5/11/2012 +0000, you wrote:
Their coupler pockets are design for a Kadee #78 couple. Which has been discontinued. Anyone know of any still available?
I didn't know they were discontinued. Most RYM kits (also discontinued) require them.

Andy


Re: reweighing

Andy Harman
 

At 10:09 AM 5/11/2012 -0700, you wrote:

A wood sheathed car, in its first year to two years of service,
lost hundreds of pounds of weight due to continued drying of the wood.
I guess I should have known that. As someone has many times carried a Christmas tree into the house with two hands, and carried it out four weeks later with one hand. A 40' wood box car or even a steel one with a wood floor has a lot of Christmas trees in it.

Andy


Re: Southern Car & Foundry tank car kit questions

Clark Propst
 

Their coupler pockets are design for a Kadee #78 couple. Which has been discontinued. Anyone know of any still available?

Clark Propst


Re: Interesting Waybill Sticker

jerryglow2
 

Yes if you mean on a model. A pair will be set with all new orders upon request. If an interest, I could put an image in the files or photos area for use with paperwork used in "ops"

Jerry Glow
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals/

--- In STMFC@..., Anthony Thompson <thompson@...> wrote:

Jerry Glow wrote:
I can't imagine much demand for them, but I'm going to make a decal
like I have the tankcar placards.
The "expedite" sticker was applied to waybills. Will this decal
be for application to model waybills???

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Modeling the FGE/WFE/BRE Fleet--some suggested guidelines & models

Bruce Smith
 

Bill, Folks,

A wonderful FAC on modeling "Our Companies"! What Bill didn't mention is that even when talking about the Accurail car as "BRE's Signature Car", there are some differences in these cars that, as Bill has pointed out, beg to be modeled, such as variations in the end fascia, depending on rebuilding so while you may have 3 of these, they may have distinct differences in details.


Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/


"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

__

/ &#92;

__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________

|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |

| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||

|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|

| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0

On May 11, 2012, at 10:56 AM, Bill Welch wrote:

The questions about the Accurail models prompt me to make the
following suggestions.

Modeling the FGE/WFE/BRE Fleet, it is worth mentioning that I think
people do not need too many of any one BRE, WFE, or FGE model because
their fleet was so diverse. I tell people a good general guide is you
need a mixture of their cars at a ratio of 15 FGE/7-8 WFE/2 BRE which
is based on comparing the ownership totals and then vary this to suit
your taste. Of course your preferred time period will influence what
you can or cannot do. Below are my suggestions using existing styrene
and resin kits to create what in my opinion would be realistic
mixture of cars.

Within the BRE group about half of their cars were a USRA influenced
car well represented by the Accurail wood reefer. These were BRE's
Signature Car. After WWII most of their truss rod cars were being
scrapped and the were building steel cars. I might suggest someone
have 3 BRE cars, perhaps an Accurail wood car, one of the wartime
designs with T&G sheathing from Sunshine, and a sliding door car from
either Sunshine or Accurail. If you are doing wartime or before,
include one of their truss rod cars from Sunshine.

For WFE, it is more complicated because their fleet was roughly four
times larger. They owned a lot of truss rod cars so one should have
at least one of these and probably two as these could be seen as the
Signature Car of the WFE fleet. They also had many of the 1921 and
1926 design cars as offered by Sunshine and I think one should have
at least one of each of these. The 1942 and 1944 built plywood cars
while relatively small in number represent an innovative design and
the 1946 Mt Vernon built steel cars represent a break from wood.
These are also available from Sunshine. The new swing door steel
reefer from Accurail is a true WFE car so this natural to have. WFE
rebuilt many of their FGE design prewar cars with a taller carbody.
These are available from InterMountain & Sunshine. The advantage of
the Sunshine kit is that it is easy to cut off the eight-inch side
sill and replace it with a six-inch sill as the six and eight inch
versions existed in about the same numbers. One of each style would
be about right. We are up to 8 cars. To spice things up add one of
the sliding door cars, maybe with WHIX reporting marks for real
variety. Although they were small in number after WWIi, if you are
modeling before the war, the Westerfield AC&F WFE car with its
fishbelly u/f will provide more variety if you are modeling wartime
or before.

FGE's fleet was roughly twice as large as WFE. It featured cars
originally owned by ten different RR's, the original Armour owned
FGE, Inc. and the RR owned FGE, Co. In addition to the FGE shops, at
least 15 other car builders were involved. The 4,000 plus cars built
to the FGE 1921 design could be called the Signature Car of this
fleet and 3 or 4 of these should be included. Sunshine has a model of
these and you can cut the side sill off for a little variation and
add a four-inch sill back on for a third variation. Truss rod cars
built by the Armour FGE, C&EI, L&N and B&O resulted in FGE owning
many of these so maybe two should be modeled each featuring the two
different Queen post variations. The 1926 FGE design was built in
significant numbers and need to be represented, maybe two of these,
one from each series. These are available from Sunshine. The PRR's R7
reefer cannot be mistaken for anything else and at least one of these
should be modeled and is available from Westerfield. As with WFE, one
of the 1942/1944 plywood cars should be included as well as one of
the 1946 steel cars. FGE owned more of the postwar rebuilds than did
WFE and here definitely some should have the six-inch sill variation.
This variation whether FGE or WFE usually had all sorts of plates and
reinforcements applied to the sill in addition to the riveted plates
where the steel body frame attached to the sill. These were
especially present at the bolster area and no two cars seemed alike.
Lots of opportunities for creating a distinctive and unique model. We
are up to 13 models at this point. At least 2 sliding door cars could
be included, and any of these should have FHIX reporting marks. The
Accurail wood reefer can be used to create the fishbelly u/f cars
built for FEC and B&O, although the ex-FEC example should have a
Murphy roof and hatch platforms. See my article in the Prototype
Modeling Journal to see how to do this. I am using a Westerfield AC&F
WFE kit to recreate a model of one of the ex-NYO&W cars. This
requires scratchbuilding the Hutchins roof.

Photos of many FGE/WFE/BRE types are available from Bob's, Jay
William/Big 4, and the NMRA and there are resources on the B&O, PRR
and ACL/SAL modeling websites to identify roster info and
descriptions of cars types. Again the ratios and suggested models are
guidelines and as with any recipe is open to your own instincts and
tastes. I would emphasize however that I do not think that any reefer
block originating on any of the 70 plus railroads contracted with the
FGE/WFE/BRE System would look correct with a whole string of
InterMountain wood reefers or steel sliding door cars as this would
not accurately reflect the diversity of the system's fleet. This
however is only my opinion.

Have fun, I know I am.

Bill Welch
2225 Nursery Road; #20-104
Clearwater, FL 33764-7622
727-470-9930
fgexbill@...<mailto:fgexbill@...>



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Interesting Waybill Sticker

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Jerry Glow wrote:
I can't imagine much demand for them, but I'm going to make a decal like I have the tankcar placards.
The "expedite" sticker was applied to waybills. Will this decal be for application to model waybills???

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: reweighing

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Andy Harman wrote:
This may seem like a stupid question, but what was the purpose of reweighing cars at a particular interval? If something was done to change the weight of a car such as a rebuilding or alteration, change of trucks or brake system etc. wouldn't the reweigh be done at that time?
I don't know if it's in the 1920 rules or not, but in later years there WAS a provision that any repair or other change to the car that could affect weight would require reweighing at that time. So the interval was only part of the requirements.

Otherwise what would cause the weight of a car to change? A wood car I suppose could vary just by the amount of moisture in the wood . . .
A wood sheathed car, in its first year to two years of service, lost hundreds of pounds of weight due to continued drying of the wood. The railroad obviously wanted to be able to charge for those hundreds of pounds in the gross weight. Tim has pointed out that wheel wear could involve a lot of weight change too.

Or was the reweighing done specifically to confirm that the car had NOT been altered?
That too. The point was to be sure of the correctness of the light weight.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Interesting Waybill Sticker

Richard Townsend
 

I have a similar placard from the Colorado & Southern with similar reporting instructions, in big letters saying "TIME FREIGHT."


Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, Oregon


Southern Car & Foundry tank car kit questions

Bill Welch
 

I have all five of Jon Cagle's very fine "Standard Tank Car Co." tank
car kits and have been going through each of them doing doing much of
the preliminary work required like clean-up of the small parts and
tapping the u/f and tank bottom sheets for the long screws I like to
use for the trucks. As I do so some questions have arisen.

For the two-dome General American car, GATX 1638, does anyone have a
larger version of the photo that is on the instructions that can
offer me guidance on which style of bolster cover plate to use, oval
or four-leaf clover? Alternatively, from existing photos or other
evidence, is it possible to draw any conclusions about which style
cover plate was most common?

Speaking of photos, have any more photos of these cars surfaced since
these cars were released pointing to other possible schemes that are
not shown in Ted C's tank car guide book. If so can someone point me
to their reporting marks/car number and source? I am fine with buying
them if I know where to go.

Thank you!

Bill Welch
2225 Nursery Road; #20-104
Clearwater, FL 33764-7622
727-470-9930
fgexbill@...


Modeling the FGE/WFE/BRE Fleet--some suggested guidelines & models

Bill Welch
 

The questions about the Accurail models prompt me to make the following suggestions.

Modeling the FGE/WFE/BRE Fleet, it is worth mentioning that I think people do not need too many of any one BRE, WFE, or FGE model because their fleet was so diverse. I tell people a good general guide is you need a mixture of their cars at a ratio of 15 FGE/7-8 WFE/2 BRE which is based on comparing the ownership totals and then vary this to suit your taste. Of course your preferred time period will influence what you can or cannot do. Below are my suggestions using existing styrene and resin kits to create what in my opinion would be realistic mixture of cars.

Within the BRE group about half of their cars were a USRA influenced car well represented by the Accurail wood reefer. These were BRE's Signature Car. After WWII most of their truss rod cars were being scrapped and the were building steel cars. I might suggest someone have 3 BRE cars, perhaps an Accurail wood car, one of the wartime designs with T&G sheathing from Sunshine, and a sliding door car from either Sunshine or Accurail. If you are doing wartime or before, include one of their truss rod cars from Sunshine.

For WFE, it is more complicated because their fleet was roughly four times larger. They owned a lot of truss rod cars so one should have at least one of these and probably two as these could be seen as the Signature Car of the WFE fleet. They also had many of the 1921 and 1926 design cars as offered by Sunshine and I think one should have at least one of each of these. The 1942 and 1944 built plywood cars while relatively small in number represent an innovative design and the 1946 Mt Vernon built steel cars represent a break from wood. These are also available from Sunshine. The new swing door steel reefer from Accurail is a true WFE car so this natural to have. WFE rebuilt many of their FGE design prewar cars with a taller carbody. These are available from InterMountain & Sunshine. The advantage of the Sunshine kit is that it is easy to cut off the eight-inch side sill and replace it with a six-inch sill as the six and eight inch versions existed in about the same numbers. One of each style would be about right. We are up to 8 cars. To spice things up add one of the sliding door cars, maybe with WHIX reporting marks for real variety. Although they were small in number after WWIi, if you are modeling before the war, the Westerfield AC&F WFE car with its fishbelly u/f will provide more variety if you are modeling wartime or before.

FGE's fleet was roughly twice as large as WFE. It featured cars originally owned by ten different RR's, the original Armour owned FGE, Inc. and the RR owned FGE, Co. In addition to the FGE shops, at least 15 other car builders were involved. The 4,000 plus cars built to the FGE 1921 design could be called the Signature Car of this fleet and 3 or 4 of these should be included. Sunshine has a model of these and you can cut the side sill off for a little variation and add a four-inch sill back on for a third variation. Truss rod cars built by the Armour FGE, C&EI, L&N and B&O resulted in FGE owning many of these so maybe two should be modeled each featuring the two different Queen post variations. The 1926 FGE design was built in significant numbers and need to be represented, maybe two of these, one from each series. These are available from Sunshine. The PRR's R7 reefer cannot be mistaken for anything else and at least one of these should be modeled and is available from Westerfield. As with WFE, one of the 1942/1944 plywood cars should be included as well as one of the 1946 steel cars. FGE owned more of the postwar rebuilds than did WFE and here definitely some should have the six-inch sill variation. This variation whether FGE or WFE usually had all sorts of plates and reinforcements applied to the sill in addition to the riveted plates where the steel body frame attached to the sill. These were especially present at the bolster area and no two cars seemed alike. Lots of opportunities for creating a distinctive and unique model. We are up to 13 models at this point. At least 2 sliding door cars could be included, and any of these should have FHIX reporting marks. The Accurail wood reefer can be used to create the fishbelly u/f cars built for FEC and B&O, although the ex-FEC example should have a Murphy roof and hatch platforms. See my article in the Prototype Modeling Journal to see how to do this. I am using a Westerfield AC&F WFE kit to recreate a model of one of the ex-NYO&W cars. This requires scratchbuilding the Hutchins roof.

Photos of many FGE/WFE/BRE types are available from Bob's, Jay William/Big 4, and the NMRA and there are resources on the B&O, PRR and ACL/SAL modeling websites to identify roster info and descriptions of cars types. Again the ratios and suggested models are guidelines and as with any recipe is open to your own instincts and tastes. I would emphasize however that I do not think that any reefer block originating on any of the 70 plus railroads contracted with the FGE/WFE/BRE System would look correct with a whole string of InterMountain wood reefers or steel sliding door cars as this would not accurately reflect the diversity of the system's fleet. This however is only my opinion.

Have fun, I know I am.

Bill Welch
2225 Nursery Road; #20-104
Clearwater, FL 33764-7622
727-470-9930
fgexbill@...

85841 - 85860 of 194661