On Jun 7, 2012, at 3:11 PM, Brian Rochon wrote:

I notice that all of the listed colors show a start date of 1944. Did
these railroads all change their color formulas in that year or would
they be accurate for earlier years? I model 1943, so that means
freight cars last painted as far back as the late 1930's?

Brian,
Based on the ACF paint samples from 1931 to 1952, there was a general
trend from darker, browner, and flatter paints during the 1930s to the
early 1940s to freight car colors that were lighter, with more red, and
more glossy in the immediate postwar years and into the 1950s. There
were some exceptions to this rule with UP being one example that used
an oxide color in the late 1930s.

Several ACF Santa Fe "Mineral Brown" paint samples for cars built
during the 1930s to 1944 were quite dark brown and flat. Comparing to
Tru-Color Paint #19, they are a perfect match. By the late 1940s ATSF
Mineral Brown had changed considerably with more of a red-brown hue.

Around the end of World War II the paint manufacturers
apparently reformulated paints and the names often used "synthetic" in
the description.
Regards,
Ed Hawkins

I notice that all of the listed colors show a start date of 1944. Did
these railroads all change their color formulas in that year or would
they be accurate for earlier years? I model 1943, so that means
freight cars last painted as far back as the late 1930's?

Micheal, I too had similiar problems and came to the same conclusion. I
now either brush (if it is a small area) or spray the area to be
'riveted'. Then after the rivets have dried, I respary a clear coat,
lightly prior to finishing the model. I haven't had the problem since I
switched to this method. The first attempt was frustrating as these rivets
are easy to put on in rows but a pain to apply individually, to fill in the
gaps where I poped them off.
Fenton Wells
On Thu, Jun 7, 2012 at 9:13 PM, michaelegross<michaelEGross@...> wrote:

**


Thanks for the information on the Archer decals.

Just a word of advice: I recently added Archer rivet decals to a car prior
to painting and weathering. I applied the decals as I would any others:
setting them onto a glossy surface, using setting solution, etc., but
before adding a clear coat, several of the rivets fell away from the
surface during normal handling. So I reapplied the decals, but dabbed all
of them with a dot of Pledge with Future Shine acrylic floor wax, which
seems to be holding them well. I will still spray an overall matte finish
over the car prior to weathering.

I frequently use washes to weather my freight cars, so wanted the rivet
decals to hold firmly for the "trauma" that is sure to follow.

If anyone has had similar experiences with Archer decals, I would welcome
your comments.

Best wishes,

Michael

Michael Gross
La Ca�ada, CA

While my experiences with Archer Rivets have not been associated with frt
cars yet, I will add the following:

1. I wanted to apply Archer Rivets to a replacement for an oil bunker top
for the Athearn UP FEF-3 4-8-4. The oil bunker's top was a model of the
excursion engine and I replaced it with a new plastic top. I used Archer
Rivets for the rivets on the new bunker top.

Lessons learned: I applied the rivets to unpainted plastic. When I spray
painted the new top I blew some rivets off. I simply reapplied them but this
time, I hand brushed clear Polyscale paint over the rivets. Waiting until
the paint had dried, I then air brushed again to see how the rivets would
hold up. Noooo problem.

2. I wanted to apply Archer Rivets to a completed steel 200,000 gal water
tank. In this case, the tank was fully painted....black.

Lessons learned. When I applied the rivets...in this case, both single lines
and double rivet lines [ the radial tank car rivets ]...I immediately
noticed that the black colored rivets disappeared when appllied to a black
surface when wet. When the decal had dried, it became visible but was then
difficult to position. My advice? Apply Archer Rivet decals to a white
plastic surface. When dry, hand brush with a Polyscale clear. After drying,
then air brush to the desired color.

Archer Rivets? I love them. By the next Prototype Rails at Cocoa Beach..Jan
10, 2013...I will have completed a new coal bunker for a C&O C-16 0-8-0
bashed from a P2K USRA engine. Also, I am planning to use Archer Rivets to
produce a rather important UP Harriman head end car bashed from one of Jon
Cagle's SC&F models.

Mike Brock

Thanks for the information on the Archer decals.

Just a word of advice: I recently added Archer rivet decals to a car prior to painting and weathering. I applied the decals as I would any others: setting them onto a glossy surface, using setting solution, etc., but before adding a clear coat, several of the rivets fell away from the surface during normal handling. So I reapplied the decals, but dabbed all of them with a dot of Pledge with Future Shine acrylic floor wax, which seems to be holding them well. I will still spray an overall matte finish over the car prior to weathering.

I frequently use washes to weather my freight cars, so wanted the rivet decals to hold firmly for the "trauma" that is sure to follow.

If anyone has had similar experiences with Archer decals, I would welcome your comments.

Best wishes,

Michael

Michael Gross
La Cañada, CA






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks for the information on the Archer decals.

Just a word of advice: I recently added Archer rivet decals to a car prior to painting and weathering. I applied the decals as I would any others: setting them onto a glossy surface, using setting solution, etc., but before adding a clear coat, several of the rivets fell away from the surface during normal handling. So I reapplied the decals, but dabbed all of them with a dot of Pledge with Future Shine acrylic floor wax, which seems to be holding them well. I will still spray an overall matte finish over the car prior to weathering.

I frequently use washes to weather my freight cars, so wanted the rivet decals to hold firmly for the "trauma" that is sure to follow.

If anyone has had similar experiences with Archer decals, I would welcome your comments.

Best wishes,

Michael

Michael Gross
La Cañada, CA






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]